Robbie R
I'm new to photography, so I'm thinking something fairly basic, but still enough bells and whistles with which I can play. I'd also like to know what a decent Macro lens would be, preferably something like 100 mm (I don't know the lingo or anything, I just want to be able to shoot things real up close without actually being so close) and not too expensive (hopefully under $200? I have no idea what this stuff goes for). I'd also like to know what would be best to take large landscape photos? Any kind of input will help, thanks in advance!
Answer
I've yet to see a macro lens that isn't good. The only one I've seen the last decade or so was an old 100mm phoenix that sounded like a coffee grinder when focussing. I'm shooting a 100mm tokina myself and I'm really fond of that.
Camera.. Canon's T3i is an obvious choice. Nikon's D90 is a steal at the moment and the 5100 is also an option.
Landscapes you can do with the 18-55 kit lens. A decent tripod would come in handy.
I've yet to see a macro lens that isn't good. The only one I've seen the last decade or so was an old 100mm phoenix that sounded like a coffee grinder when focussing. I'm shooting a 100mm tokina myself and I'm really fond of that.
Camera.. Canon's T3i is an obvious choice. Nikon's D90 is a steal at the moment and the 5100 is also an option.
Landscapes you can do with the 18-55 kit lens. A decent tripod would come in handy.
What is a good macro camera?
Hannah
I want a camera with great macro capabilities. High quality. But I'd like a camera with some versatility too. I like landscape/wildlife/bird shots too. Any suggestions? I currently have an Olympus SP-590UZ, but I'd like something a little higher quality.
Answer
A DSLR is all but required, as it must have manual exposure and manual focusing capability (most Macro is done with manual focus). Also the camera must have the ability to work with an off-camera flash.
My setup consists of:
Nikon D90
Tokina 100mm f/2.8 1:1 macro lens.
Nikon R1 close-up flash system.
Induro AX114 tripod.
Smith Victor BH2 ball head.
El Cheapo made-in-china focus rail (not everything needs to cost a lot).
If you go with Nikon, be aware that if you go with anything less than a D90, you might be limited in your selection of macro flashes, and perhaps lenses. If you go with a D3100/D5100, the Nikon R1 or Metz M15 macro flash will not work. But a Nikon R1C1 or Sigma EM140 will.
Since the lower end Nikons don't have autofocus motors, lenses like the Tokina 100mm won't autofocus.
This is not a problem with macro as you will be manually focusing anyway, but the Tokina (like many macro lenses) can be used for a dual-purpose lens for portraiture. For those times you are not using the lens for macro, you would want autofocus.
In my view, the extra cost for outfitting a D3100/5100 justifies buying a D90 or D7000. The end cost will be about the same, as the D90/D7000 can use less expensive lenses and flashes (as the cameras have more capability). I know this might be confusing, and to be brief, I won't go into any more detail, unless you need more info in this area.
Canon might be a bit cheaper, so look into that brand as well.
A macro flash is very important, even in bright daylight. Since macro has a very limited depth-of-field, sometimes only a few millimeters, you need to use apertures in the f/22 to f/64 range (yes, some macro lenses go to f/64). For that reason, you need a flash in daylight to get proper lighting.
Beware that macro lenses are not cheap. While many general purpose lenses claim to have macro capability, they are not as good as a true macro lens.
Look for a lens that gives you 1:1 magnification. General purpose lenses with "macro" capability don't go that far. Only true purpose built macro lenses can usually achieve that degree of magnification.
To have a decent macro setup, in addition to your DSLR, you'll need a true macro lens ($500~$1,000), a ring flash ($400 and up), a good tripod with an articulated center column ($100 and up), and a micro focus rail if it is in your budget ($100).
But don't let me scare you off. Macro can be done a lot cheaper with a set of extension tubes, which run around $100 or so. And you don't need a dedicated flash - but your photo opportunities will be limited without one.You can buy cheap LED ring lights for under $100, but they are not as good as a ring flash. A tripod is just about essential.
I make these statements as you should know that macro photography can be very expensive, so you need to know what you are getting yourself into.
Macro photography is also a very challenging - but rewarding - activity. Macro photography is technically challenging, and you will need to learn a lot about how your camera works, how to shoot in manual modes, and so on. But again, the result is you will learn a lot about photography, and it opens up a whole new world.
A DSLR is all but required, as it must have manual exposure and manual focusing capability (most Macro is done with manual focus). Also the camera must have the ability to work with an off-camera flash.
My setup consists of:
Nikon D90
Tokina 100mm f/2.8 1:1 macro lens.
Nikon R1 close-up flash system.
Induro AX114 tripod.
Smith Victor BH2 ball head.
El Cheapo made-in-china focus rail (not everything needs to cost a lot).
If you go with Nikon, be aware that if you go with anything less than a D90, you might be limited in your selection of macro flashes, and perhaps lenses. If you go with a D3100/D5100, the Nikon R1 or Metz M15 macro flash will not work. But a Nikon R1C1 or Sigma EM140 will.
Since the lower end Nikons don't have autofocus motors, lenses like the Tokina 100mm won't autofocus.
This is not a problem with macro as you will be manually focusing anyway, but the Tokina (like many macro lenses) can be used for a dual-purpose lens for portraiture. For those times you are not using the lens for macro, you would want autofocus.
In my view, the extra cost for outfitting a D3100/5100 justifies buying a D90 or D7000. The end cost will be about the same, as the D90/D7000 can use less expensive lenses and flashes (as the cameras have more capability). I know this might be confusing, and to be brief, I won't go into any more detail, unless you need more info in this area.
Canon might be a bit cheaper, so look into that brand as well.
A macro flash is very important, even in bright daylight. Since macro has a very limited depth-of-field, sometimes only a few millimeters, you need to use apertures in the f/22 to f/64 range (yes, some macro lenses go to f/64). For that reason, you need a flash in daylight to get proper lighting.
Beware that macro lenses are not cheap. While many general purpose lenses claim to have macro capability, they are not as good as a true macro lens.
Look for a lens that gives you 1:1 magnification. General purpose lenses with "macro" capability don't go that far. Only true purpose built macro lenses can usually achieve that degree of magnification.
To have a decent macro setup, in addition to your DSLR, you'll need a true macro lens ($500~$1,000), a ring flash ($400 and up), a good tripod with an articulated center column ($100 and up), and a micro focus rail if it is in your budget ($100).
But don't let me scare you off. Macro can be done a lot cheaper with a set of extension tubes, which run around $100 or so. And you don't need a dedicated flash - but your photo opportunities will be limited without one.You can buy cheap LED ring lights for under $100, but they are not as good as a ring flash. A tripod is just about essential.
I make these statements as you should know that macro photography can be very expensive, so you need to know what you are getting yourself into.
Macro photography is also a very challenging - but rewarding - activity. Macro photography is technically challenging, and you will need to learn a lot about how your camera works, how to shoot in manual modes, and so on. But again, the result is you will learn a lot about photography, and it opens up a whole new world.
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