CANON LENS 70-200mm series?

Love & Lau

Is there really MUCH difference between these four?

70-200mm f2.8L IS USM
70-200mm f2.8L USM
70-200mm f4L IS USM
70-200mm f4L USM

I mostly do outdoor portraits of children, family etc, and low key events like anniversary dinners, baptisms, birthdays..... Im looking to buy a GREAT portrait lens but not to spend a fortune!!! I cant decide on the 85mm 1.2 or 85mm 1.8 either.... which one should I buy??
There is also a 70-200mm 2.8L II IS USM ($2,388).... what's the difference from the other one- 70-200mm 2.8L IS USM ($1,800) except for the price.

Answer
WHAT?! the 28-200mm versus these excellent lenses?! these lenses are 567384563945 centillion times better than the extremly-soft-at-all-focal-lengths 28-200mm. there is quite a difference.

the f/2.8l series is different, and may be too much for you. they are 3 times heavier, and i think it might be overkill for just children, family stuff, but if you want to spend the $1.6K, it is worth it. you may want to rent it, because while 3lbs might sound light to you, if you spend 3 hours with it photographing running children and taking pictures of candles on a cake with a smiling kid in the background, it will be HEAVY. the newer II IS version, which is even more overkill to you maybe, is sharp at all apertures, including f/2.8, (which the original, was soft at a little).

ok if you don't want to read an essay, READ THIS PART:
i recommend the 70-200mm f/4l is usm, because its light (compared to its bigger brother and sister, the f/2.8l series), you do outdoor stuff (which you really don't need f/2.8 for), it has fast AF performance (better than the DC motor of the 70-300mm), and its very sharp. if you have no budget and lost your mind slightly, then spend it all on the f/2.8L IS USM II. but budget wise, and commonsense wise, the 70-200mm f/4l is usm is for you. plus, its weather sealed, unlike the non IS counterparts, so you can take some good pictures on a rainy little league baseball game.

the 85mm is a different story, and if you must, then buy the 85mm f/1.8, because its boatloads cheaper, lighter, and sharper

Canon 70-200mm f/4 lens.....Macro and water droplets?

humaxing

I am planning on getting this lens soon, but i'm wondering is this lens good in terms of Macro photography...i know that this lens does not have the macro mode, but most lenses dont have macro mode but turn out to have great results when shooting flowers.

Another thing...is this lens good also in terms of water droplet photography?

Any personal experiences and suggestions would be good....

thanx;)

Answer
Any prime will beat any zoom for image quality. Any manufacturers 50mm and 100mm Macro lenses are usually the sharpest lens they make. A 100mm will put you further away from the subject which is handy as you can get in your own light with a 50mm.

The 70 - 200mm is probably a more useful lens, but for macro a dedicated macro lens will blow your socks off for image quality. How close will the 70 - 200mm focus? Probably not close enough for water droplets.

Most any lens, even a kit lens, will do water droplets, a dedicated macro will just do it better.

Chris

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Canon Rebel XSi or XS with what lens for sports photography?

Luke Barnh

I am absolutely brand new to quality photography and I don't really know what I should be looking for. I've found some very reasonable Canon XS and XSi's with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 II lens, and I'm not sure if this will work for what I'm looking for. I want to take some photos of sports players in action and I've found the XSi has a 3.5 fps burst with up to 6 RAW or 54 JPEG images in a row. Will this camera with this lens be alright for amateur baseball and football games in outdoor lighting? Any advice is helpful. P.S. I am looking for a camera good for sports photography that if I shopped could find for about $200-400 used on craigslist or ebay. If you have any better suggestions. Thanks

Answer
The camera is secondary at this point, the kit lens is not fast enough or long enough for night games. You need a 70-200 f/2.8. The newest Canon L IS is the best, but the non-IS and the Sigma are also excellent lenses. You can squeak by with the f/4, but you are going to want to upgrade the lens, so why bother with something you will be unhappy with. You could also get a prime, the 85mm f/1.8 would be good.

Sure, you could use the kit lens, but with the cameras you are talking about, the low light performance (high ISO) is not good enough to compensate for the slow lens. Then, at 55mm, you are not going to be able to isolate the action, plus I don't think the kit lens is USM, so it is slow to focus.

Sports, and night sports especially, is an equipment limed hobby. If you really want to get good shots, you need good equipment. To shoot pee wee kids during the day, you can get away with entry level equipment.

The best Canon telephoto lens under $250?

mistaked

Yeah, I know, my budget is ridiculously low and I get what I pay for, etc, etc. But that's all my parents will allow.

I shoot sports games and nature photography, like at zoos and such.

So definitely at least 250 max zoom. 100 or less for the minimum zoom.

I have tried this lens:
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-75-300mm-4-5-6-Telephoto-Cameras/dp/B00004THCZ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=photo&qid=1227835793&sr=1-2
and it was decent. Looking to see if there are other, better options. (:

I am also considering the Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Macro Telephoto Lens, but I'm not sure if it will be appropriate for sports?
Oh, I shoot completely for hobby, by the way.

Answer
Canon has better lenses, but I would say all their lenses are at least good so I would tend to go with it. The lens you mention is USM, so it may focus faster than the Sigma you pointed out, which would be handy when shooting sports.

Also, two of the places most recommended in Answers for buying equipment are www.adorama.com and www.bhphoto.com

You can save a few bucks on that lens if you go there.

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DSLR cameras Nikon ,Canon ,...?

HB

Hey guys,

recently I got interested in DSLR cameras. From the power shot cameras I know the optical zoom is really important to take the high quality pics. But I'm not sure DSLRs have the same quality of pics. By the chance is there anyone to tell me about the optical zoom of DSLRs?

I guess their lens is big but I'm not sure about its accuracy because to the best of my knowledge 18-55 mm has only 3x optical zoom! Which is really crazy!
Am I right?!

Answer
DSLR cameras have the larger sensor so you get a higher quality images. You can change lenses which can be valuable, by allowing to adjust to different needs.

There are a number of good brands so don't be sold on the idea one brand is better than another. I am a Nikon user but I see models that I really like from a variety of brands. Nikon I like the the D5000, D90 and D700. Canon I like the 550D Rebel, and 5D Mark II. Pentax has the K-x model that I think is extremely impressive, especially for the price point.

Below I provided some links where you can research and learn more.

Hope this helps.

Mark

marksablow.com

What is the best lens for a Nikon DSLR camera for portraits and action shots?

ilymanda43

I have a Nikon D3100. I need a lens besides the one it came with to use to do senior pictures (portraits) and action shots from a pretty good distance.

I've used my boyfriend's Tamron AF 70-300mm Macro Zoom Lens with my camera and I really liked it! but would the 52-200mm Nikon lens be better or just as good?

Or do these both suck and you have another suggestion? INPUT PLEASE! Christmas is coming and I need to figure out what to ask for! haha
sorry... guess i should have said best out of the two i mentioned, and if there are any similar (and better) lenses please inform me!

Answer
Take a look at the Nikon Nikkor AF-S 50mm f/1.4G which is a prime lens, my cousin has one and she takes beautiful portrait shots with it. You can look for details for it here:

http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-50mm-1-4G-Digital-Cameras/dp/B001GCVA0U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1322806952&sr=1-1&sourceid=md.ds&tag=famavca-20

Read this review for it too, it will help you know it works etc:

http://www.amazon.com/review/R27HNVPI2RAP16/ref=cm_cr_pr_perm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B001GCVA0U&nodeID=&linkCode=&sourceid=md.ds&tag=famavca-20

The Tamron AF 70-300mm is good too, but i'd say go with the Nikkor lenses that Nikon makes as they make the best lenses for their cameras. I found a pretty good price for it:

http://www.amazon.com/Tamron-70-300mm-4-0-5-6-Macro-Digital/dp/B0012UUP02/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1322807298&sr=1-5&sourceid=md.ds&tag=famavca-20

The Nikon i mentioned above is a great investment and is a great all rounder, i would recommend it over the tamron.

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Good DSLR Camera for me?

PurpleLove

Okay, so I have two wonderful cameras, but I'm getting pretty serious about photography, and I'm wanting to get a Digital SLR camera - something that I can change the lenses on. I am not looking to spend thousands of dollars on a camera, but I am willing to save up and spend enough to get something nice.

If you could please tell me your favorite brand (Canon, Nikon, Pentax?) and some good models, that would be wonderful.

I do not want a 35mm or any other film camera, it's just not practical anymore, though they take wonderful photos.

I am most likely looking at something used because I can get a better deal and they usually come with at least one lens.

Any answers are appreciated! Thanks!
To answer the quetion of what type of photography I will be doing:

A little of everything really. I want to be able to do some macro, some really far away (telephoto), some scenery, a lot of people (action, portraits), a lot of pets (action, portraits), and wildlife, among other things. Those are just the ones I will most likely be doing the most.

I have found some nice-looking DSLR cameras on Craigslist for $300-$400, and many come with two or more lenses.

Answer
The camera body doesnât care what youre taking photos of. They are all capable of a wide variety of photography. If you settle on some certain area of photography itâs the lenses you will need to make choices on. Learn photography basics and how to use your camera then you can think about accessory lenses.

Get used if you like but Ive looked and Ive seen absolutely no deals I would go for. Nobodys giving anything away. With prices for new starting so low it makes no sense to go used for the average person. Most new cameras have kits which include at least one lens.

The Pentax K-x performs better than any other camera in its price range and as well or better than some more expensive models (test comparisons below). Check prices from B&H in USD then see test comparisons below

Pentax K-x w/18-55 $521 HD video
Pentax K-x w/18-55 and 50-200 $625 HD video
Pentax K-x w/18-55mm and 55-300mm $715 HD video
Nikon D5000 w/18-55 $700 HD video
Rebel XSi (450D) w/18-55 $560 No video
Nikon D3000 w/18-55 $550 No video
Canon T2i w/18-55 $900 HD video
Canon 7D body only $1700 HD video
Canon 50D body only $930 No video

With the K-x Image Stabilization and Auto-focus are both in the body. No need to pay for IS or AF with each and every lens you buy as with Nikon and Canon. This will save you significant cash throughout the years you own the camera.

http://www.pentaximaging.com/slr/K-x_Black/

See performance comparisons for the Canon 1000D, Nikon D3000 and Pentax K-x here
http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/eng/Image-Quality-Database/Compare-cameras/(appareil1)/268|0/(appareil2)/331|0/(appareil3)/345|0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Canon/(brand2)/Nikon/(brand3)/Pentax

Performance between the K-x and Nikon D5000 is very close as shown in this comparison
http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/eng/Image-Quality-Database/Compare-cameras/(appareil1)/320|0/(appareil2)/345|0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Nikon/(brand2)/Pentax

The K-x outperforms the Canon T2i and Canon 50D See the comparison here
http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/eng/Image-Quality-Database/Compare-cameras/(appareil1)/345|0/(appareil2)/338|0/(appareil3)/267|0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Pentax/(brand2)/Canon/(brand3)/Canon

And the K-x outperforms the Canon 7D here with just a hair advantage to the 7D at high ISO
http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/eng/Image-Quality-Database/Compare-cameras/(appareil1)/345|0/(appareil2)/329|0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Pentax/(brand2)/Canon

The Pentax K-x is a beginner friendly camera.

ImagingResource
âThe Pentax Kx has enormous value, thanks to its remarkable image and print quality, fine build, and class-leading burst speed, all combining to make one impressive digital SLR camera. The Pentax Kx is a Daveâs Pick. For sheer image quality at a wide range of ISOs, the Pentax Kx is tough to beat, especially for the price.â

DCResource
âThe Pentax K-x is an impressive entry-level digital SLR. It brings very good image quality (especially with a decent lens), snappy performance, tons of features, HD movie recording, and good build quality to the table. If youâre looking for your first digital SLR, then the K-x should be high on your list.â

MacWorld.uk (Editorâs Choice)
âUltimately, this is a beginner-friendly model featuring most of the latest must-havesâ
http://www.digitalcameratracker.com/pentax-k-x-reviews-sample-photos/

Its true there are more Nikon and Canon lenses available. Check the prices. Can you afford all the lenses available? If you can do you plan on buying each and every one? There are more than enough Pentax and third party lenses available for any photographer.

what is the best camera out there? (which I can get in the uk)?

BlueEyes12

Which make or model and why?

Answer
I think you need a DSLR camera. It is an investment but it can be well worth it. DSLR cameras have the larger sensor so you get a higher quality image. You can change lenses which can be valuable, by allowing to adjust to different needs.

You do not mention cost, there are DSLR cameras without a lens that cost as much as £5000, like the Nikon D3x.

Here are some models that I think are well worth researching with estimated prices:

Nikon D5000 12MP DSLR Digital Camera w/18-55mm VR Lens - $649US
Nikon D90 12MP DSLR Digital Camera w/18-105mm VR Lens - $1089US
Canon EOS Rebel T1i (500D) 15MP DSLR w/EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens - $769US
Pentax K-x 12MP DSLR with 18-55mm Zoom lens - $550US

Below, I listed some links where you can look up reviews and see what camera works best for you.

The first link listed below is to a web page that lists the 4 DSLR cameras I am recommending you compare. This list will let you compare features and specs, also it has links to reviews of the cameras, the reviews include sample images from the cameras.

The Pentax K-x is a more recent model and has been getting some amazing reviews, I would take a close look at it.

Hope this helps.

Mark

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Canon 400D lens question?

.

On a Canon 400D, why do some pople say you can't use the Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM lens?

I read that it would only be good for headshots and what not? Why not a fully body picture?

Because this person gallery, they use a 350D and they have portraits..?

http://www.pbase.com/ctd/image/85662771


I'm confused? lol. Can someone please explain why this lens isn't good for Rebels or a 20D?

Answer
Who told you that?

With that lens, when mounted on your camera, it works like a 216 mm, which is pretty "long". If you want to do full length shot of someone, you will have to stand quite a way from the subject. This is due to smaller sensor your camera has compared to a film or a full frame camera. It is too long to be a walk-around lens for your camera.

When used with a full framer, it works quite nicely. This lens is a legend - it's supposed to be Canon's sharpest, and you can see here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_pooky/2522671413/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_pooky/2705348719/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_pooky/2706358698/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_pooky/2706337930/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_pooky/2580210072/

If you want to do a portrait with your camera, better to get the Canon 85 mm f 1.8--on your camera, it will work like a 136 mm and the best thing is that it costs less than a third of the 135 mm f 2 lens.

best lens for Canon rebel G?

casey l

Hi, I am starting to take photograghy more seriose than I have and looking to get better. What would br the bestlens for me to shoot headshots with, and also to shoot outdoor bikini shots?

Answer
Canon's zoom lens go from a fairly wide 28mm to practically anything you want. I like the 28-200 zoom.
http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&fcategoryid=149&modelid=7443

When shooting portraits, you want a slightly longer lens in the 80-100mm range. This flattens your subject's face and keeps them from looking distorted. Your outdoor shots will either want a long lens, or a wide one, depending how you intend to compose the picture. Either way a good quality zoom can replace several other lenses.

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DSLR Camera Review and Suggestion.?

Siva On Y!

I am new to photography , so I have frizzed upon Nikon D 3000 but I also got updates about the Fujifilm FinePix HS10 which is good. So any suggestion on which to select. My Price range is INR 25,000.

Answer
These are two different classes of camera. The Nikon D3000 is a DSLR and the Fujifilm HS10 is a super zoom camera (a.k.a. a bridge camera). Two major differences: 1) a DSLR has interchangeable lenses, the zoom has only the one lens, 2) the sensor on a DSLR is about 5 times bigger than the super zoom. Interchangeable lenses gives you great options when you are ready for them, such a wide angel, fish eye, fixed focal length with great low light performance (ISO). The larger sensor gives you much less noisy pictures especially in low light, like sunrises and sunsets.

I suggest the Nikon D3000, especially to someone new to photography. It has a teaching mode that will help you set the camera. And it's a Nikon!

DSLR, Mirrorless, Bridge Superzoom or Advanced Compact Camera?

Jake

I've been looking into DSLR cameras for a couple months now and cameras like the T3i, 60D, D3200, D5200, D7000 have been surfacing a lot.

I've since looked into superzooms like the Canon SX50 HS which has a 50x zoom (24-1200mm) and take pretty good pictures for only a 1/2.3" sensor.

I've also looked into cameras like the Sony RX100 with a 1" sensor. One of the highest praised compact cameras.

There's the option of the Sony NEX series as well.

I'm looking for phenomenal image quality but also a lot of versatility. For some reason I'm standoffish about Nikon's because I owned a T4i, even though I returned it, I like the lens selection from Canon and such. I've been looking at reviews of sensors on the dxp or whatever site that is and the D5200 scored an 84 compared to a 66 for the T3i, a 66 for the RX100, a 70 for the 60D, a 47 for the SX50 HS and an 81 for the D3200 but that is also shooting RAW. Help me decide!

Answer
Honestly the only people who pay attention to lens tests done in a controlled lab setting are posers at best - the type who show up at camera club meetings and brag about how this lens or that lens they own can resolve x number of line pairs per millimeter but never show any of their results using that lens.

My personal prejudices automatically eliminate any "Bridge Superzoom" because of their tiny sensors with far too many pixels and their heavily compromised permanently attached zoom lenses.

I'm also less than impressed with Compact System Cameras because all of them - Sony, Nikon, Canon, Olympus, Panasonic - use a lens mount that isn't compatible with their big brother DSLR cameras without an adapter and some of the adapters are pretty pricey.

So that leaves us with the current DSLR crop from Sony, Pentax, Nikon and Canon.

The Sony SLT series - a37, a58, a65, a77, a99 - all use the legacy Minolta Maxxum "A" lens mount that dates back to 1985. There are still a lot of previously owned Minolta Maxxum AF lenses available and all of them are fully compatible with with the SLT series of cameras.

The Pentax K-30 is currently the lowest-priced Weather Resistant (WR) DSLR on the market. Although WR doesn't mean the camera is waterproof it does mean that you can use the K-30 in the rain or in very dusty conditions without worry. Also, the K-30 still uses a variant of the Pentax "K" lens mount that dates back to 1975. There are probably more manual focus "K" mount lenses available than you'd care to count plus all the AF "K" mount lenses made before the digital takeover of photography.

Both Sony and Pentax have a focusing motor in their camera bodies as well as their respective version of Image Stabilization (IS). Any AF lens made for either will auto focus as they should and any lens used becomes a stabilized lens.

Nikon still uses the "F" lens mount that dates back to around 1959 so any Nikon lens made since then (with a couple of very rare lenses) can be used on a modern Nikon DSLR although there may be limitations as to functionality. However, the entry-level models - D3100, D3200, D5100, D5200 - all lack a focusing motor in the camera body so only the more expensive AF-S lenses will auto focus on them. Nikon also has their version of IS (Nikon calls it VR) in some but not all of their lenses. So with Nikon you get to pay over and over for a focusing motor and lens stabilization.

Canon abandoned their "FD/FL" lens mount for the "EF" lens mount when they introduced their Rebel EOS auto focus 35mm film cameras in 1988. To further complicate matters, Canon now offers two different lens mounts - the "EF-S" which can only be used on their crop-sensor entry-level DSLR cameras (T3, T3i, SL1, T5i, 60D/60Da and 7D) and the "EF" which can be used on any of their DSLR models whether crop-sensor or full-frame. Canon has always had the focusing motor in their lenses and, like Nikon, chose to place their version of IS in some but not all of their lenses.

So that's my breakdown of the Big 4. Go to a camera shop and handle the different models and go with the one that you like best.

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Canon 7D + Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L USM Lens = Good on low light situations?

Canon Man

Just wondering, cuz I find a low light situation to be my main concern. So since many say the 7D is a great pro-level camera, and it's mostly all about the lens. Would the f/1.4 of this L lens make it a low light buster?

Thanks in advance.

Answer
I don/t know who is saying that the 7D is a great pro-level low light camera. It is a great pro-level cropped sensor camera, no question.

Here is how it compares to the Nikon D7000 semi-pro camera's sensor

http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Cameras/Compare-Camera-Sensors/Compare-cameras-side-by-side/(appareil1)/680%7C0/(brand)/Nikon/(appareil2)/619%7C0/(brand2)/Canon

As you may know, the wider the aperture, the more light can be passed through to a camera sensor at any given shutter speed. So ANY f/1.4 lens will perform well under low light conditions.

What is most important is the cameras sensor performance under low lighting.

Here is a sample of how a camera can perform at 25,600 ISO

http://s862.photobucket.com/albums/ab182/fotomanaz/Answers%20album/?action=view&current=VultureMineDetaili.jpg

As you can see, you need both sensor and lens performance to shoot under low light.

Here is one shot with an older camera at 3200 ISO

http://s862.photobucket.com/albums/ab182/fotomanaz/Answers%20album/?action=view&current=i_AIA3008copy.jpg

This camera at 6400 produces far too much noise to produce marketable images, so 3200 ISO is the limit of this camera

What is the best canon lens for low light?

curious li

I want to be able to get really great detail in my pictures when I have to be in a low lit situation with no flash. My budget is maximum 1k. This line up gives small descriptions but it's not enough. http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/ef_lens_lineup

What type of lens should I be looking for? What is the benefit of one over the other! DETAILS

-Thanks!

Answer
Canon currently make SLR cameras with three different sensor sizes, and the choice will depend on your sensor size. It will also depend on which low-light subjects you are trying to work in.

For instance if you have a Canon 1100D and want to shoot at parties, then a 35mm f/1.4 might suit you very well and be within your budget; but if you have a 1D Mk iv and want to shoot night football matches, you are looking at lenses starting at $3000 and rising steeply from there.

To simplify: close subjects on a "crop" sensor (portraits, parties, house-sized rooms) 35mm f/1.8 or f/1.4; or 18-55mm with a minimum aperture of f/2.8 throughout the zoom range. On a larger sensor camera, 50mm f/1.8 or 28-135mm f/4 or smaller (the large sensor handles high ISO better so you can get by with a slightly slower lens.
Church or Hall (like a dance or wedding venue): as above but about 30% longer focal length (35mm becomes 50mm and so on)
Sporting Venues: depends on the lighting, and indoors vs outdoors: 10mm -2300mm fv on a crop, and buy a monopod. 300mm f/4 on a full frame plus a monopod. These are not ideal by any means, but they are the best you will do at your 1K budget.

Do not ignore 3rd party lenses; Tokina, Sigma and Tamron. All three make lenses of high quality for your Canon often at much lower prices.

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Film Camera / Digital Camera lens compatibilities?

supreme_zc

So I know that the digital canon cameras use the EF-S lens and that they can use film camera lenses right? How well do those film camera lenses work on digital cameras? is the quality good? Also I have a Nikon D3000 which is a DX format camera. I'm wondering if there are any Film Nikon lenses that can go on my camera? And if there are is that a good thing? If I were to use a film camera lens on my digital Nikon would the image quality still look good or what? Details please, thanks.

Answer
Actually what you think you know is incorrect.

If you attempt to use an EF-S lens on your 35 mm EOS SLR, you will damage the mirror in the camera and possibly damage the rear lens element. ONLY EF lenses can be used on 35 mm EOS and full frame Canon EOS 1D and 5D series cameras NO FD or FL lenses (made before 1987) can be used on the EOS cameras without a special adapter

All Nikon lenses AI and newer can be used on all Nikon dSLR's except for the entry level D40(x), D60, D3000 and D5000 cameras. All other Nikon dSLR cameras can use lenses from as old as the 1970's if they have the inexpensive AI feature added.

There will be no difference in how your images look just because the lens was made for use with film. How they look is totally up to you and your photographic stills.

I use four old prime lenses from the early 1970's on my current D200, D300 and D3 camera bodies.

Link to all the Nikkor lenses made by Nikon and which cameras they work with

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/compatibility-lens.htm

DSLR Camera Question!!?

No D

I am planning on buying a new DSLR camera in a about a year. But I don't know what I should look for in a DSLR camera, since I am new to DSLRs. But I do know that I want it to be at least 11 megapixels and I want to be able to click the shutter very fast and the it will still take photos.(By that I mean like I don't want to be able to click the shutter, wait for the camera to load, but like click it every second and still get the camera to take the photo every second.) PLEASE HELP!!

Answer
Most dSLRs have similar basic features. The only true difference would be megapixel count. Other small features that would set some models apart may or may not be trivial to most users.

When looking for a dSLR camera, limit your search to Canon, Nikon and Pentax. They are the big three in 35mm photography and have been making SLRs for a very long time. Your basic concern then would only be price and brand. Canon basically have lots of lenses at a higher price range. Nikon have lots of lenses with more from other brands like Tamron and Sigma. Pentax have a small lineup of lenses but it makes it up with compatibility with all of the lenses it has ever made (with the oldest screw mounts requiring an adapter).

The talk about lenses is inevitable since your body is not expected to last forever. You expand your gear through lenses and when your body starts to fail, replace it with another one that takes your lens collection. That's why you have to choose your brand wisely from the very beginning.

About shutter speed, it doesn't mean that if you have a dSLR, you can click away as rapidly as you want and still get fabulous shots. This is the common mistake people assume. The dSLR, like all other cameras (film or point-and-shoot) depend on light. Without sufficient lighting, picture quality goes down. It all depends on how the user perceives available light and how he adapts to it with the camera. It takes a balance of shutter and aperture settings related to sensor sensitivity and amount of light to make a proper exposure. Most cameras, even the sub $100 point-and-shooters have the capability to take satisfactory pictures as long as you know what you are doing and give it enough light.

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How do you work a Telephoto lens for DSLR cameras?

CC09

I own a Nikon D3100 DSLR camera and recently just bought a 650-1300mm Telephoto Lens for the Nikon. I've done everything the book said and then I went to use it and all pictures came out black...I can't adjust the exposure or anything, does anyone know what I'm doing wrong?

And before someone asks, yes the lens cap was off and yes the camera was on, yes the lens was attatched to the camera properly, yes I had it on the M setting (as the book said) and my pictures still came out dark. What am I doing wrong?

Answer
What you did wrong is not read the fine print or if you did, you did not understand what it meant in relationship to your specific camera.

* that lens is a stop-down metering, manual focus lens and it has NO CPU
* your camera is an entry level dSLR and uses Nikkor AF-S lenses if you want to use the auto-focus feature of your fine camera or Nikkor AF lenses if you don't mind manually focusing the lenses. In both cases, the meter on the camera will work just fine. BUT other lenses, especially very inexpensive, low technology lenses like the one you purchased cannot use the meter in your camera. You will have to use an external light meter and then manually set the cameras shutter speed, set the preset lens aperture to that indicated by the light meter, focus the lens and then move the lens aperture ring to the preset aperture setting. As you can see this is a very slow process, so patience is important

I suggest you return the lens and save your money toward a lens that will work with your camera.

The longest lenses made for current dSLR camera which are auto-focus are either lenses like the Nikkor 200-400 mm f/4 ($7,000) or Nikkor 600 mm f/4 ($10,300) As you can see there is a vast difference in the cost of a precision lens vs. a poorly constructed lens using decades old technology.

The best low cost telephoto zoom for your camera would be the Nikkor AF-S 70-300 mm lens ($590)

Is a basic DSLR camera better comapared to a camera like NIKON P510 having 42x optical zoom? Which one?

TUSHAR T.

Which camera is better in comparison with regards to the clarity of the image in the zoomed mode? And which of the cameras above can have the best zooming capacity (DSLR or higher point & shoot) ?
That is in comparison to a DSLR camera having 18-55mm lens.

Answer
DSLRs have a much higher degree of quality than compact cameras such as the P510.

Thing is, the higher power zoom lens you have, the worse optical quality it has. With a ridiculous 42x zoom, the optical inferiority is likely to be quite noticeable at different zoom settings. They are so mediocre, I just cannot understand why people do not realize this and continue to buy them.

In contrast, DSLRs - at least those with zooms, typically have lenses in the 2x to 4x range - but that is not to say DSLRs are limited in their zoom capacity.

I do have to back up here a bit and explain that generally DSLR owner's don't use the "X" factor when talking about lenses. They typically talk in focal lengths.

A zoom lens is one that has different focal lengths. But in the DSLR world, not all lenses are zoom as Jim pointed out. Some are fixed to one focal length (call them 1x zooms if you want).

But those lenses are absolutely the highest quality lenses you can buy, and are often used in Wedding Photography, Macro, and other specialized purposes when you need the best lens you can get.

Having said that, most DSLR lenses though are zoom. And since the lenses on DSLRs are interchangeable, the idea is to have many different focal length zoom lenses that collectively make up the total zoom range of the camera.

The reason for this is that the high optical quality is maintained by using multiple short zoom and fixed lenses rather than an optically inferior single zoom lens like the 42x lens on the P510.

Personally, I have 8 lenses - from 10mm to 400mm. Collectively, I suppose you could say that is equivalent to 40x in zoom power. The difference though, is each lens is many, many times more precise and optically perfect than the single lens on the P510. I just have to change lenses to do so.

And that does not happen as much as you might think as each kind of photography favors a different lens. If I am shooting sports, I don't need to take my macro, wedding, or landscape lenses - if I am shooting scenery, I will not be needing my sports or nature lens, and so on.

So I never need all 8 of my lenses at the same time - two or three at the most is all I ever carry.

In contrast, a single 42x lens is burdened with parts of the lens that will never be used at the same time - so you are sacrificing quality for a lens that you will never fully utilize.

Since you are comparing a DSLR with a kit lens (18-55mm), true - it will not have as long of a zoom as the P510 (18-55mm = 3x), but that lens will still be optically superior.

The reality of the situation is the 42x lens on a compact camera is a disadvantage, an no matter how much shorter the lens on a DSLR is - it does not matter - as the lens will be orders-of-magnitude optically superior. And if you decide you need another lens to cover a different part of the "zoom range" (to use compact camera terms), just go out and buy one. In that regard, "zoom power" is almost unlimited in a DSLR.

In the Nikon catalog, you can buy lenses from 10mm to 600mm, which is equivalent to 60x worth of zoom power. You just buy the segments of the "zoom range" that you want (and can afford). There is no compact camera that can touch 60x worth of high-quality zoom power.

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Camera lenses?!?!?!?!?!?!?

Victoria

Hi. :) I am purchasing a Canon 5d Mark iii, and would like to get a few lenses for this camera. I think it would be a good idea to get around three, maybe a simple 50mm, a zoom lens and/or telephoto, and possibly a portrait lens. What three canon lenses would you suggest? I have having difficulty choosing which lenses I want. So basically my question is, what three canon lenses do you think would be most necessary and appropriate for a DSLR? If you had to have only three lenses for your DSLR, what would they be. Thank you! :) Also, I have a budget of around $2,500-$3,000 for these three lenses. I was thinking about getting a relatively inexpensive telephoto for around $1,500 then using the remaining budget for the two other lenses.
HOW on EARTH "Selina" are you a "top contributor?!" That baffles me.

Answer
Before buying any lens you must first determine what kind of photography you do the most and then buy the lens that best suits that type of photography. Buying a lens based on someones recommendation in here will likely result in you wasting your money. Also, only Canon's EF lenses can be used on a full-frame Canon DSLR.

Do DSLR lenses fit all camera models?

Mike

I.e. if I have a nikon camera, will canon or sony lenses fit? Do any companies have this compatibility with each other?

Thanks

Answer
No, each company has their own proprietary mount (with very few exceptions).
You can buy adapters that, for example, will let you put Nikon lenses on a Canon DSLR -- but the adapters are somewhat expensive (like this one):
http://www.amazon.com/Adorama-Nikon-Lens-Canon-Adapter/dp/B000H3MAOO

And to get one that gives full functionality of autofocus and auto-aperture costs even more.

Generally, unless you have a really good reason to do otherwise, stick with lenses for your brand of DSLR. That doesn't mean if you have a Canon you have to buy Canon lenses -- Sigma, Tokina, Tamron, etc. all make quite good lenses in mounts for most popular brands.

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Need help with which camera type would suit me best?

Anthony

So I am currently looking on walmart.com at their camera section and I am so confused. So I always thought basically cameras with higher MP and the bigger ones (yeah I know, slap me now) were better and that's about as far as my knowledge goes with cameras. But I noticed that there are big cameras that are categorized as digital slr cameras that are basically 12-14 MP and $400+ but there are also the smaller cheaper cameras for 150+ that are generally 16 MP. So this proves my theory that "the more MP the better" wrong I think.
So which type of camera would fit me best?
I've always been interested in photography so I would use it a lot to capture landscape images, cars, and also close ups on perhaps maybe some flowers or bugs or something but I would primarily be using it for my youtube channel. I'm a "sneakerhead" so I would use it to basically do unboxing videos, review the shoes, and on-foot videos.
One rule I usually live by is "you get what you pay for" so I'm willing to throw down a couple hundred for a nice camera as long as it works for everything I'd like to do with it. I know someone may suggest a start with a cheap beginner camera but I usually just like to get something nice the first time, that way I don't have to buy a cheap one and then the nice one down the road. Perhaps experiment with amateur photography while also being able to film HD videos for youtube.
so basically, can someone clear up the difference between cameras, which would suit me best for HD photos and videos, is more MP actually better, etc.

thanks in advance.

Answer
Well as you surmised, more megapixels and big lenses are not necessarily better - it is a marketing ploy generated by camera manufacturers that says "Pick me" when you look at various cameras.

The number of Megapixels a camera has defines it's resolution. Resolution basically is how large of a photo you can print out and still have high quality. These days, 12Megapixels is enough for most situations. However, some people have gone to cropping their photos in lieu of having a good telephoto lens, and with a high Megapixel camera I suppose allows this to some extent, but the purists would find that sacrilege.

The real judge of the sensor is not the Megapixels it has, it's how large it is physically. The benchmark these days is the old 35mm film format, which is 36mm x 24mm - or around 864 sq mm. Simply put, the larger the sensor, the larger the individual pixels, and the better they are at capturing light. That means larger sensors generally have better low-light capability. And a couple of side benefits are a bit better contrast and color definition.

APS-C DSLRs, the kinds you see at Walmart costing $500, have slightly smaller sensors, around 370sq mm (Canon DSLRs are 329 sq mm as they have smaller sensors yet).

Next come the M4/3rds cameras - often called 2" sensors, with a size of 225 sq mm. And after that are the Nikon 1, Sony RX100, and so on with 1" sensors having a size of 116mm.

Then the best compact cameras; Nikon P7800, P340/P330, Canon G15, Canon S120, etc that have 1/1.7" sensors - or 43 sq mm.

And then the run-of-the-mill compact cameras, including most bridge cameras, which range from 25 to 28 sq mm.

And finally smartphones, which most are around 4 sq mm, but a few are as large as 25mm compact cameras.

So you see, a full frame DSLR with a 864 sq mm sensor compared to a smartphone with a 4 sq mm sensor is physically well over 200 times larger - which accounts for a DSLR's much superior low-light capability, contrast, and color definition.

And realize that 1980x1024 Full HD video only takes about 2.1Megapixels - which is much less than even the most basic camera these days. So there must be some way to resolve the difference between 2.1Megapixels that HD video requires vs the high megapixels of a typical camera.

Most cameras simply skip rows of unneeded pixels. However, this can be a problem as those pixels do contain information and that can result in a jagged edge between the remaining pixels. But since video is constantly moving, your brain often does not see those artifacts.

A few cameras, such as the Nikon 1 and Sony RX10, have sensors that are just the right size, and additional processors that "oversample", or average the pixels into a composite video that has fewer artifacts than simply skipping pixels that most cameras do to cut down to 2.1Megapixels needed for Full HD.

And since the pixel skipping is common from the least expensive compact camera to DSLRs (other than the afore mentioned Nikon 1 and Sony RX10), the higher the megapixel count in the sensor, the worse this is likely going to be.

Also, since those high megapixel cameras are designed first and foremost for photos, and since it takes a lot of processing power to convert their sensors to resolve at 2.1Mp for video, camera sensors tend to overheat. And this happens with ALL cameras having a video mode. This then limits the time you can use the camera. Often, inexpensive cameras may only give you 5~10 minutes of recording time before they shut down due to overheating, but I would not expect any more than 20 minutes from even the best DSLRs.

Regardless, there is a tariff limit (WTO/ITA) of 29 minutes 59 seconds for the video mode of cameras, so unless you have a video camcorder, don't expect times longer than that.

So if video is the number one need, I would highly recommend looking at a video camcorder rather than a camera.

Does anyone know much about DSLR lenses?

Dave

Basically, Iâm looking to get a new camera, and will probably get an SLR. Itâs the first time Iâve bought an SLR, so donât really understand a lot of the terminology!

With my compact, I get a x4 zoom on it. With some of the high end SLR look-alike cameras Iâve seen, I can get x18 zoom â I understand all of that (sort of). But, when I look at a âproperâ SLR, it doesnât seem to use the xZoom rating, rather mm, and was just wondering how these translate into xZoom equivalent! For example, 1 camera I looked at comes with an 18-55mm lens & a 55-200mm lens and wondered how that compared with a x18 zoom camera.

thanks

Answer
All camera lenses will have a focal length measured in mm, even point and shoot lenses. If you check the specs for a camera with a built-in lens, you'll find the lens equivalent in 35mm film cameras posted, because 35mm cameras were a standard for so long. To find the specs in mm for any camera, visit the camera database at http://www.dpreview.com

Measuring the equivalent in 35mm terms is the most accurate way to do a comparison, because it equalizes everything, which the xZoom measurement doesn't do. Here's why:

To get an xZoom measurement, you take the big # and divide it by the smaller one. So 55mm/18mm = 3.05x, which means it's a 3x lens. However, 200mm/55mm = 3.64x. If you just compared the xzoom powers, the lenses would appear to be nearly identical (between 3x and 4x), yet they are very different lenses, with the first lens being wide angle to mild telephoto and the second lens being a telephoto zoom. They have very different looks through the viewfinder.

So, like I said, convert everything to a 35mm equivalent. For a digital SLR, multiply the lens by 1.5, so an 18-55mm has a 35mm equivalent view of 27-82.5mm

Now, for comparsion: the Canon A570 IS, which has a 4x zoom. Look at the lens specs here:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canona570is/
35mm to 140mm equivalent lens per the specs.

So, the 18-55mm spec again: 27-82.5mm This means the 18-55mm lens will be wider (27mm is wider than 35mm), but have less telephoto power (82.5mm isn't as powerful as 140mm). Adding in the 55-200mm, which is 82.5-300mm equivalent--the two lenses cover more telephoto now too from 27.5mm to 300mm (vs. 35mm to 140mm).

Now, let's look at an 18x zoom, the Panasonic FZ18:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/panasonicfz18/
Lens specs: 28-504mm

The 18-55mm covers 27-82.5mm.
The 55-200mm covers 82.5-300mm

Bottom line: the two lenses won't be as powerful, but it will still cover a very wide range (200mm / 18mm = 11.1x)

Finally, while LEM is mostly correct (and a thumbs up to him), he is somewhat mistaken about Sigma/Tamron/Tokina third party lenses. The fact is that those companies make some unique and very good lenses. For example, while Nikon makes an 80-400mm VR lens, Sigma makes an 80-400 optical stabilized lens with a built-in motor. Optically, the Sigma is the equal or superior of the Nikon. Yet it's far less expensive! Another example: Only Tamron makes an 18-250mm lens (an equivalent 13.8x zoom) for SLRs. Yet another example: the Sigma 10-20mm is relatively inexpensive, yet performs fantastically for wide angle and I've seen this lens used by pros for interior photos because it doesn't distort.

So, I disagree with LEM on third party lenses. If you know what you are doing, it's possible to get superb third party lenses, including lenses you can't find or get from the big camera companies, for a lot less money.

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Buying my first dslr. Throw your knowledge at me!?

Anon

Initially I was torn between the Canon eos 1100d and nikon D3100.
1100D with kitlens 18-55mm £ 265 12.2mp
D3100 same kitlens for £300 14.2mp

Now i've seen Canon Eos 550D for £450 with kitlens of 18-55mm & a 75-300mm. This has 18mp better video quality too.

I know the first 2 are good for starters, but im more drawn to the 550d for the cheap price for the mp count and 75-300mm lense inclusion.

What are your views on any of these cameras

Answer
Congratulations on the coming purchase ! All of the cameras will take fine photos. Purchase a solid pro style tripod also with a remote shutter release.

A camera is but a paint brush, it is more important who is holding the brush than which brush it is.  All decent cameras can take wonderful pictures in the right hands. Spend your time studying great lighting and composition because even a great camera can not fix bad lighting or composition.  And have fun with whichever brush you buy or use.

Remember it is just the tool and you the photographer have to guide it to take great photos. To that end study composition and lighting - two of the keys to great images - and things that even the best camera can not fix, if you blow it.

The famous New York camera store has a ton of great training videos on youtube. Below is a link to one of them but explore their full list of uploads there.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywOmebUKT5w&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Should i buy a Camera with wide angle lens or normal one?

dominikpay

Hey,
i was thinking of buying a digital camera,
I was at the sony store, and i saw a wide angle lens camera and then there were the normal ones.
Now i was wondering which camera is better, what are the pros and cons of them both. i always had an interest in photograpy. Any advice on which camera i should buy, the wide angle lense one or normal one.
any additional information on the topic would be really appreciated.
thanks.

Answer
The answer to this question and many many more can easily be found in a Basic Photography Guide.

If you want to learn basic photography, what you will need to start with is a DSLR with an interchangeable lens mount, a 35mm and/or 50mm prime lens and, most importantly, a Basic Photography Guide.

It doesn't matter what brand camera you buy. Buy whatever you can afford and that feels good to you.

Do not buy off brand or inexpensive zoom lenses as they are difficult to learn depth of field with and do not have high enough maximum apertures to practice much available light photography (no flash) which is the type of photography you need to practice first in order to understand the basics.

Once you buy your camera and have read your Basic Photography Guide, set your camera to full manual and do not use auto anything.

Do not spend a lot of time fooling around with editing software like Photoshop to start with. Concentrate on taking photos the way you want them to appear in the end.

If you do all these things first, you will be well on your way. If you skip any of these steps, learning to take quality photos and discuss photography and equipment purchases intelligently will be more difficult for you than it needs to be.

Good luck! Don't forget, Basic Photography Guide!

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canon 24-70 f2.8 or canon 24-105 f4 is lens?

dzing

Mostly indoor shooting.

Answer
for indoor its probably better to have a wider aperture. and indoor you wouldnt need the 105 focal length. so go for the 24-70

Full frame lens dilemma, Canon 24-70 2.8L II vs the rest?

Jan

So my wife kindly agreed that I can upgrade my gear and get a 6D + accessories. I am now stuck with the traditional lens choice dilemma. I used to have the 24-70 L I but dont want to back there, due to its sheer weight. Nevertheless also my wife wants to keep it simple. On the long end I ll have a 70-200 f4 L IS USM - no questions asked, but on the shorter end I am still hesitating.

In lots of forums it was discussed whether the 24-70 II is worthy to replace the best primes - like the 35L 1.4, 50L 1.2 and 85L 1.2. Well to me those are lenses I couldn't afford to buy, while I have a very good offer for the 24-70 II on the table. Owning both primes and the 24-70 II is financially not a choice (perhaps in future).

So how does the 24-70 L II compares to the midrange primes? Like the 35mm f2 IS USM (so not the old 35mm f2) and the 50 or 80mm 1.4f's?

Any opinion? I do like portraits, but I spend a lot of time chasing my kids also, so some flexibility is very welcome. I used the Fuji x100s for a while and I am used to have a light 35mm as a walkaround but I sold it in order to afford the 70-200L. Dilemma dilemma....
Interesting asnwers so far. Thank you. I am probably leaning towards the Canon 24-70 L ii as the ultimate result. The Sigma primes are interesting at 1.4, but their cumulative weights (for 35 50 (85) would by far exceed the weight of the 24-70 L II (which is gladly 150g lighter than the Mark I).

I have also investigated the below mentioned Tamron 24-70, which has great results, with IS, though less sharp on the borders. The issue I have with Tamron is that their quality has not been consistent in the past and I am not much in the mood to test 3 different pieces before finding the right one.

Answer
I started with a 24-70 F/2.8 L. Way too heavy for my uses. I moved to primes (24mm + 50mm) Then I moved to analogue. Then to Leica rangefinders. (now i'm broke)

24-70mm is a good utility lens. The 2.8 is adaquate for most low light situtations. But the question is do you need more speed? Especially if your kids are running around in doors. How does it compare to the primes? 99% of the time, the difference is neglible.

At the end of the day, you need to shoot and use what you feel most comfortable.

My suggestion:
24-70mm f/4 L or
24-105mm f/4 L IS
These lenses are smaller and great performers. They will be great in general applications that you mentioned above. Then to supplement low light, I would recommend getting the nifty 50mm f/1.8 II

This combination of the 24-70 or 24-105; and the 50mm will give you the greatest amount of diversity. From outdoor utility, to low light speed.

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I'm buying my first DSLR camera...HELP!?

Hannah

I love taking pictures but the coolpix camera I have right now sucks and my friend has a Canon Rebel which I LOVVVEE. If I did buy the Canon Rebel or Nikon D3000, would I HAVE to buy interchangeable lens to go w/ it? If so, what are the advantages to them? Also, which is better- canon or nikon? Someone just give me the whole 411 on these cameras, please? Thanks!!

Answer
Hey,

You can just stick with one lens with your DSLR. You can buy later if you feel, want something wider etc.

The basic 18-55, kit lens, is very good for beginners.

Here's a post called 'Buying a DSLR, what's important, megapixels, features, brand, price, quality and which one to buy - http://www.the-dslr-photographer.com/2009/03/which-dslr-to-buy.html

Good luck! The site has many more tutorials, tips, reviews and guides!

DSLR CAMERA question ?

Jean D

I'm looking to buy a dslr camera and i'm down to Canon & Nikon. I'm trying to figure what would be better between the Nikon D40X, D60, Canon Rebel XS, XSi. I would like feedack from people who own one of them .

Answer
Although it is getting a little old, the D40 is a perfectly fine camera for a beginner (I would say even better than the D40x or D60). The D40 new is about $472.00 including free shipping. I would also consider the D3000 instead ($585.00 including free shipping from adorama.com). The D3000 is a much easier camera for a beginner (has a nice guide feature), not to mention it just came out on the market so it will hold its resale value better. Also, the D3000 kit lens is a VR lens, whereas D40 kit lens does not have vibration reduction technology, thus making the D3000 an even better value. Check out the first two links below for a great review of both cameras. Out of the Canon choices you mention I would go with the XSi (450D). Check out the last link for a great comparison chart between the XSi, XS (1000D), and XTi (400D).

Edit: The D40 and all the Nikon's without built in auto focus motor can accept more lenses than the D80 albeit with less functionality. Check out link three for more info.

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what's the best canon lens?

panchivris

Answer
The best Canon lens is called "A Nikon."

Just kidding.

Canon's best lenses have the "L" in their name, which stands for Loser. Just kidding again. I don't know what the L stands for. I think Canon thinks it sounds good.

Just buy a lens that has a good view and an L in the name from Canon and bring lots of money cuz they r expensive.

Canon lens hoods - any way to buy them cheaper than list price?

Q. I have a [Canon EF-S 17-55mm f2.8 IS lens] & a [Canon EF-S 55-250mm f4.5-5 IS lens]. I need to get hoods for both, but I don't want to pay $40-50 or $20-30, respectively..... any way to get the real deal for cheaper? (I mean, I could use that money for gas...) :P

Answer
You can always check to see if you can find them used at B&H, Adorama, KEH, etc. eBay might be a good place to look. But you probably won't find them much cheaper.

A lens hood is a good investment... I mean if you really need the gas money, cut down on driving. Lens hoods do so much more than blocking glare. If you get the Canon ones, the hard plastic also protects your lens. In fact, I would go as far as to say they are much more effective at protecting your lens than any UV or Protector Filter. That's why I don't recommend the rubber lens hoods. The rubber ones are cheaper and can be effective at reducing glare, but the do nothing for protecting your lens. There have been a couple of times a lens has fallen out of a bag and landed on its front with decent impact. If the lens hood wasn't attached, I probably would be on my third 24-70mm 2.8L instead of my first.

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What lens do I need for Canon xti to take good wedding pics ?

barrierman

I now have a 18-55mm and 300mm lens. Want one in between. What other acces. do I need ?

Answer
First off, your 300mm is pretty much not needed for weddings except possibly for an occasional unusual perspective. The 18-55 will be useful for candids and group shots, so that's fine.

Lighting in churches can be pretty bad and you may not be able to use flash, depending on the wishes of the couple and officiating clergy, so you should look at a fast standard zoom such as Canon's EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM. It's not cheap, but well worth the money when the light stinks. Your photos MUST be sharp, so consumer-quality zooms with variable aperture are a losing proposition. You will quickly find out that lens speed is worth the money.

Other things you probably need:
-- a top-quality flash such as Canon's 550EX with an external power supply. No one in the wedding party wants to wait while you change AA batteries. Down the line you may want to add a second flash, which is very useful for lighting setup shots and portraits.
-- a flash bracket and remote cord for the flash. Direct flash in the mark of the amateur.
-- a medium-weight tripod.
-- a relationship with a professional printer. The local Walgreen's won't cut it.
-- a second SLR body for the inevitable day your primary body dies during a wedding and to keep mounted with a second lens for quick shooting of candids. Your customers want photos, not excuses. If you can't afford it now, consider renting a second body on wedding days until you can afford another body. A one- or two-day rental is cheap insurance.

Those are the basics and more than you asked about. Good luck!

What is the best lens for Canon 600D wedding poses?

Mr. TaReK

What is the Best lens for outdoor night wedding poses? My DSLR is Canon 600D what do you recommend?

Am just responsible for shooting Outdoor night wedding poses...

I have the 18-135mm lens for wide angle shots... but i need one lens just for low light poses ..

what do you recommend

thx a lot

Answer
"Am just responsible for shooting Outdoor night wedding poses..."

Oh, just outdoor night photography ... for a wedding? Nothing to it ... if you are a seasoned pro ... There's no where to bounce your flash so you HAVE to use off camera lighting, there's little to no existing ambient lighting ... outdoor weddings and receptions are lit like your backyard, not like a football field so you have literally no light to work with, might as well just try shooting by candle light for all the difference it will make. ... you'll need far more than just some fast glass.

My suggested lenses ... 50mm f1.4 and/or 24-70 f2.8. Get a bracket and a hot shoe adapter and sync cord to move your flash off camera a bit and put a nice small softbox on there to help soften the light a bit.

If you've never shot like this before: practice before the wedding!

Good luck, you'll need it.

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NEED A GREAT TELEPHOTO LENS FOR MY CANON 50D?

kyra

I AM NOT A PRO PHOTOGRAPHER. I AM NEEDING A TELEPHOTO LENS FOR MY CANON EOS 50D CAMERA. I WANT TO USE IT FOR SPORTS (FOOTBALL, BASKETBALL,ECT) AND FOR WILDLIFE PICTURES WHEN I TRAVEL TO MONTANA. I AM FRIENDS WITH A PHOTOGRAPHER THAT LIKES HIS 70-200MM 2.8 SO I STATED LOOKING INTO IT. I WOULD LOVE TO FIND ONE AT A GOOD PRICE, BUT IT LOOKS LIKE I MIGHT PAY FOR ONE MORE THAN THE CAMERA.

I AM SO CONFUSED. I HAVE FIGURED OUT WHAT THE IS USM AND USM MEANS, BUT NOW I SEE THAT THERE ARE EF, EF-L, EF-S AND I DO NOT KNOW WHAT ALL THIS MEANS.

I AM JUST TRYING TO FIND A GOOD ONE THAT WILL WORK FOR THESE THINGS THAT I WANT TO DO.

I ALSO LOOKED INTO THE TAMRON (TO SAVE SOME MONEY) BUT FOUND ON SOME REVIEWS THAT THERE IS A DELAY 3-4 SEC IN LOW LIGHT THAT WILL BE A PROBLEM WHEN YOU ARE TRYING TO GET A ACTION SPORT SHOT.

CAN SOMEONE HELP????

Answer
The EF stands for (Electro-Focus). This is the name for Canon's standard lens mount. As another example, Nikon's lens mount is called the "F-mount." Canon's EF-S lenses are designed exclusively for the Rebel and EOS 20/30/40/50D line of cameras which have smaller sensors than the big, expensive 1D/s and 5D cameras. When you see an "L" designation, it's one of Canon's professional or luxury line of lenses. There's a corny, but common joke that "L" stands for expensive as "L."

The fact is good glass is never cheap and it is not at all unusual to have more money invested in lenses than cameras. As an extreme example, the most expensive Canon telephoto lens ever made is selling for $120,000 in "used" condition at BH Photo of New York (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productList&A=buyUsed&Q=116642). When was the last time you saw a $120,000 camera?

In all seriousness, if you are on budget, take a look at the Canon EF 70-300mm f4-5.6 IS USM lens. I bought mine for about $550. The day I bought it, I compared it to the EF 70-200mm f/4 IS L-series lens and I honestly couldn't see a big enough difference in my photos to justify the extra $400 for the "better" lens.

Do keep in mind that in really low light, you are either going to have to use a flash, bump up your ISO or live with a blurry shot even if your spend $1700 on the big f2.8 L-series zoom. Those are the breaks and it should also be noted that it's not often one extra stop on the aperture save you from an otherwise bad photo.

On the off brand lens; you take some chances with those lenses. I've owned Tamron, Tokina and Sigma lenses. The Sigma was great but short focused on my 40D. I finally got a copy that worked but then I noticed the photos had a funky yellow tint. The Tamrons and Tokinas just never felt like they were well built an I was done after I saw a Tamron's laminated lenses seperate. Your mileage may vary but, I'm sticking to lenses from Canon and Nikon.

I am having problems getting clear soccer pics with a canon 50d w/70-200 2.8 lens....?

chattern

...Any suggestions on settings?
I have tried sports mode, but so many of the pictures are blurry, and if is is beginning to get dark, the pics are terrible. I have been using a 2x extender, as the 70-200 IS alone does not seem to go quite far enough. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!(in simple terms, please). Thank you in advance for your help!

Answer
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM Telephoto Zoom Lens for Canon SLR Cameras
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The EF 70-200mm F2.8 L IS USM was introduced way back in August 2001, supplementing (but not replacing) the non-stabilized 70-200mm F2.8 L USM in Canon's highly regarded telephoto lineup. This is a lens which can truly be described as a professional workhorse, with robust build (including dust and moisture resistance), wide F2.8 maximum aperture, fast and silent ultrasonic autofocus motor, and optical image stabilization for hand-holding at slow shutter speeds. The optical design is somewhere on the far side of complex; it features 23 elements in 18 groups, with 4 UD elements to provide compensation for chromatic aberration. According to Canon, this gives a 'high-resolution, high-contrast optical capability', as demanded from a lens which needs to perform all day, every day in the hands of professional photographers across a wide range of subjects and conditions.

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Looking for best canon 7d lens Portrait?

Hector Riv

What are good lens for PORTRAIT lens a Canon 7D? Need lens for portrait looking not to break the bank but get decent lens for portrait canon or any other brand.. at a good price.

Answer
Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 for sure! No doubt an excellent lens for portraits. Sharp and crisp. You'd love it. Read this review to get a more detailed opinion:

http://www.amazon.com/review/R20SU2PLUBJL1X/ref=cm_cr_pr_perm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00007GQLU&linkCode=&nodeID=&tag=admja-20

I found a good deal, thought you'd be interested (i mean, who doesn't like to save some bucks?! ;)) :
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-85mm-Medium-Telephoto-Cameras/dp/B00007GQLU/ref=cm_rdp_product&tag=admja-20

What is a good cheap canon lens for wedding/portrait work?

Gigi

One of my friends is letting me photograph her wedding, and she can't afford to pay me more then $300 so I'm not going to go all out and buy a new body/ expensive lens ect..and I do plan on buying a flash.
I have a 50mm 1.8 for the close ups, but I need a good tele lens for under $300. I'm using a Canon Rebel xs. I would also like to be able to use it for portrait work. One of my friends uses the Sigma 70-300 for Canon, would that be a good one to look at?
Thanks!

Answer
I have a 28-100 that works really well for macro and for portrait. are you using more than one camera body or will you have to switch the lenses out during the ceremony.
the 70-300 wont be much use for the close up stuff - but it should work well as a telephoto.
What sort of flash are you buying - for only 300 it sounds like you are not going to break even if you buy a new lens and a new flash unit.

the link below has some photography equipment review sites in it - you should take a look around at some of those forums (you don't have to necessarily buy a canon lens for your canon camera)

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Do Holga cameras come with a slide?

Q. I am buying a Holga camera from http://shop.lightleaks.org/collections/holgas I am a newbie to Holga's and I was wondering if the cameras come with their own slide or if I have to buy that separately? I will most likely order the Holga 120N which is the 3rd camera down from the top. Thanks.

Answer
The Holga 120N cameras do not have interchangeable film backs, and does not need a dark slide. This camera uses 120 film, which can be difficult to work with because it is harder to find and harder to find a lab to process it.

If you are new to film photography, you should consider starting with a lo-fi 35mm camera.

Why?

1. Lower cost of film. You get more frames per roll, and if you are a beginner, the way to get good at shooting with film, is to shoot lots of it. I find that when beginners use 120 film, it's higher costs and higher cost of processing keeps them from shooting because they are very much aware of how much each shot costs.

2. Easier to find. 35mm film is much easier to find than the 120 film used in the Holga 120 cameras. I see it in the drugstores, as well as few grocery stores (although that is becoming a much rarer experience).

3. Easier to get processed. Most drugstores and large big box stores like Target or Walmart still have 1-hour labs, but only for 35mm film. You will have to find a local lab to process your 120 film, or send it out.

4. Lower cost of processing. It cheaper to get your 35mm film processed. If you skip the prints and just get the roll processed and put on CD, you can cut the cost down even more. Tip: If you want prints, then you only pay for the ones that came out. This keeps the cost of processing down.

Take a look at one of these 35mm cameras:
Holga 135 or 135BC
Similar cheap lens and operation as the Holga 120 cameras. 1 aperture setting (yes, the camera has 2 settings, but they are identical), 2 shutter settings, N (1/100 sec) and B (Bulb setting) tripod mount, cable release socket If you want the corner vignetting like on the larger format camera, get the Holga 135BC.

Sample photos: http://www.flickr.com/groups/holga135bc/

Superheadz Black Slim Devil
This is a clone based on the popular vintage Vivitar Ultra Wide and Slim. It has no exposure controls and no flash option, but with it's wider than normal lens (22mm) it is capable of taking some outstanding photos.

Sample photos: There really isn't a good Flickr group for these cameras yet, so the sample photos are from the Vivitar UWS http://www.flickr.com/groups/57074580@N00/

The Diana Mini
Lomography took the Diana camera, and shrunk it down to 35mm format. The Mini, while it lacks the interchangeable lenses of the full sized Lomography Diana+, is still a feature packed camera (at least compared to the Holga and Black Slim Devil). The frame format is unusual. They stuck with the square format of the Diana camera, but it is centered on a standard 35mm frame. The reason for floating the square on the 35mm frame is that be using a standard 35mm format, most 1-hour labs will be able to more easily deal with making scans or prints, since they are set up for regular 35mm film. You can also set the camera to half-frame 35mm, which is 2 vertical 24mm x 17mm images. This translates to 2 images on a standard 35mm frame. Currently a favorite of mine, it lives in my camera bag so it is handy where ever I go. 2 aperture settings, 2 shutter settings, N (1/100 sec) and B (Bulb setting) tripod mount, cable release socket This camera is unusual in that it offers square format,24x24mm on a standard 35mm frame (24x36mm). It also offers a half frame option, 17x24mm frames (it doubles the number of exposures you get on a roll of film)

Diana Mini sample photos: http://www.flickr.com/groups/1232275@N22/

The Diana Mini is nice, but I find that unless I am working close and with a flash, the images tend to be on the softer focus side, to the point of being blurry. You might want to consider the sharper lens of the Superheadz Slim cameras (Black Slim Devil, White Slim Angel or other variant, all the same camera in diff colors). Take a careful look at the sample photos on Flickr to help you make a decision.

I have Out of the Box Videos posted on my youtube channel:
Superheadz Black Slim Devil: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwBJYQvEDrU
Holga 135BC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMHCqJ-Cgd4
Diana Mini: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20ItiDptbBA

Whichever camera you choose, remember that the point of lo-fi photography is to have fun and don't sweat the details!

For tips for lo-fi cameras, check out my website:
http://www.dianacamera.com/

For how-to videos for Holgas and Diana cameras, check out my youtube channel:
http://www.youtube.com/kaituba

Beginner SLR Cameras?

Max

I'm I young photographer, and I'm now planning on moving, from my digital camera, to a fancier SLR camera. I don't know much (practically anything) about camera part lingo, so I'm having a hard time finding a camera with what I want in my camera. I was wondering if anyone knew of a camera that's cheap (200- 350ish, used o.k.) and has controls for ISO, exposure and that stuff, and comes with a macro lens and what ever other kind of lens I would need for basic picture taking. If you leave a link, it would be helpful.
Thanks! :)

Answer
Hi Max,

You are asking for a lot for your $$$ but I have found one possible solution for you from a reliable on line vendor. While not true DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex) camera there is a new type of camera called E.V.I.L (Electronic Viewfinder Interchangeable Lens) that you may be able to afford. These are not DSLR models because they lack the "REFLEX" part of the viewing system but his allows them to be smaller, lighter and more affordable. I believe someone has already mentioned a Samsung model that fits in this category but the link is no longer valid and I would recommend looking at Olympus, Panasonic and Sony models anyway because they are better established in manufacturing this class of camera and have a wider selection of models and accessories.

Specifically you can get an Olympus E-PL1 refurbished model with lens for about $300 from Cameta Camera.

http://www.cameta.com/Olympus-Pen-E-PL1-Micro-4-3-Digital-Camera-14-42mm-Lens-Black-Black-Factory-Demo-52477.cfm

This is available as the camera only for about $300 or in a kit with case, memory card, card reader and other accessories for $350 (including photo recovery software which can prove to be worth the $50 if you ever have a problem with a memory card or accidentally delete photos or format a card that you still wanted to copy pictures from). These cameras come with a one year warranty.

I personally have purchased a couple of refurbished items from Cameta and and the equipment has always been in excellent condition and I never had any problems with them. My family has an E-PL1 that I bought for them to use and have as a "back up" to my DSLR. And I have been very pleased with the results from the camera.

Here is a link to a set of photos on Flickr the 10 photos in this set were made with the E-PL1, if that helps.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/robs-photo-memory/sets/72157626263466331/

I will probably be adding a few more pictures to this set in the next day or two.

I hope that helps, good luck! Please feel free to email me if you need more information.

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Stylish camera case??? Looking for a good quality, low priced case. Help please?

neenie

Well, the fifteenth birthday is coming up and I was looking at some camera cases for my Canon Rebel Xsi and one or two of its lenses and possibly a flash. As I do tend to take my camera to lots of places; i.e. photo club, parks, zoos, school events, a lightweight shoulder bag would seem ideal.I am really not looking to spend more that a hundred dollars, and would like it to be at least somewhat stylish and or colorful. I don't want to seem lazy, but maybe you could say what you have or point me in the right direction, because I haven't had much luck in finding anything besides the typical lowepro or tamrac.

I was thinking about the Crumpler 5 million dollar bag or the Acme Made Bowler Bag, but any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks a million!

Answer
I've been searching desperately for a camera bag that's attractive, affordable, and functional, and the Crumpler 5 Million Dollar Bag and the Acme Bowler Bag are the two that I've narrowed it down to as well. There is a huge market for better-looking camera bags that don't scream "Mug me, I have expensive equipment!" or "Look, I'm carrying an ugly bag with a camera in it!"

I've heard amazing things about the Crumpler, and borrowed a friend's for a day. It was everything I would have hoped, so I can definitely recommend that. I didn't have much gear with me though, just my D80 body and my 70-300mm lens. I could also fit my cigarettes, wallet, and iPod though, which is always useful. The bag was nice and comfortable, if a bit unattractive, but it was nice and sturdy.

The Acme Made bag is much cuter and less expensive though, and could also double as a regular purse. I haven't seen it in person, but I'm concerned that it might be a bit small. I've seen photos where it is comfortably holding a DSLR body with lens attached, and extra lens, and it looks like there is room for a flash unit or another small accessory. However, there doesn't appear to be room for much else. On the other hand, this bag seems like it's super easy to open, even easier than the Crumpler, which is a selling point for me since I've missed shots while trying to drag my camera out of its bag.

If you have any stores around that stock either bag I'd recommend going to check them out. Also, if you choose the Acme Made bag, let me know if it's too small! :p Good luck with your choice, and happy approaching fifteenth birthday.

NIKON camera lenses? Where to start? 10 pts.?

Natasha

NIKON: What lenses do I need/ you prefer? I shoot mostly Snap Shots, Up Close, Engagements, Senior pictures, Family pictures, and Children.. I really want to start shooting weddings, but I need the lens for all of this. Any suggestions? Post links below! THANK YOU!
I really want to get a nikon D700 or 800 p.s.
And people are shooting weddings with their little digital cameras... I wouldn't charge; just though I'd help out.

Answer
If you're a guest then feel free to take photos, but please do not shoot a wedding as the primary photographer, you will ruin someone's special day.

You need to have multiple lenses and multiple camera bodies as well as backups for every piece of equipment you have. Not to mention accessories.
My wedding kit contains: 5D Mark III, 1DX, 16-35mm F/2.8, 35mm F/1.4, 50mm F/1.2, 85mm F/1.2, 135mm F/2, 580 EX II And my backup kit which is always in my car at a wedding is: 1D Mark IV, 7D, 17-40mm F/4, 24-70mm F/2.8, 70-200mm F/2.8, 580 EX II, 580 EX
I will have at least a total of 100GB worth of CF card storage for one single wedding.
I carry insurance for all of my equipment as well as professional indemnity insurance and public liability insurance. These are an absolute necessity.

You can get a Nikon equivalent of everything in my kit.
This is the standard for wedding photographers. You cannot risk missing a moment or losing the photos. It will completely ruin the day for the couple, it will be a moment they'll never forget and will completely destroy your professional credibility/reputation.
People who don't hire a proper photographer are idiots, it's their own fault if something happens to their wedding photos. Just don't be that photographer to lose the photos, it will haunt you emotionally for the rest of your life. A friend of mine was mugged after he photographed a wedding, they took all his camera equipment and unfortunately the memory cards in his bag with the wedding photos on them. He barely cared about the gear, but he was distraught about what had happened to the photos. You can replace everything but memories.

You need to start with an entry level DSLR until you learn how to use it. If you want to shoot anything to earn money then you need to be technically proficient with all of your equipment. It will take you months to understand your equipment, years to learn to use it to its fullest and decades to perfect your skill. I've been doing this professionally for 11 years and I don't like referring to myself as a "skilled", "proficient" or "advanced" photographer because I don't believe it, there's still so much more to learn.

A Nikon D3200 and the kit lens will suffice. Later you can add a fast prime (50mm F/1.8 for example) then a speedlight (a flash) and then a fast zoom lens (17-50mm F/2.8, 70-200mm F/2.8) and finally specialty lenses (wide angle, fisheye, tilt shift, super telephoto etc). After all that, you can upgrade your camera body to the D800's successor.

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