DSLR vs. Average Digital Camera?

Kevin Merr

I was wondering if I could buy a digital camera for about 200-300 dollars that would match the quality of a DSLR camera? What is the difference of a good digital camera, and a DSLR?

Answer
To answer the second part of your question here are some of the differences and features between the two types.

DSLR:
High resolution
Fast response (Picture is taken within a fraction of a second from pressing the shutter button)
Interchangeable lenses
High continuous shot rates
Manual controls
Durability
Optical viewfinder

Normal Digital Camera:
Portability
Price
Live preview on the LCD
Some have large zoom ranges
Many different choices
Many are high resolution

this lens does not include everything, but I feel that these are the big ones

whats the difference in cameras DSLR vs point and shoot?

viper8089

I've been looking at the Olympus e-3 which is there best dslr on the market, a constant negative i keep seeing in reviews is that it only has 10 or so megapixels, compared to a point and shoot that push far past 12megapixel,

my question is, whats the difference in the way a dslr takes a photo over a point and shoot, and how a camera of 10megapixels dslr can take so much of a nicer photo then a 15megapixel point and shoot.

also is there any camera some one with experiences in this field would recommend,

Answer
First of all megapixels don't matter at all. Read the attached article.

Second. A DSLR has a sensor that is much much larger than that of a point and shoot. The sensor on the Olympus is 10-12 times larger than the sensor on a point and shoot camera. Larger sensors mean finer detail, dynamic range and much better low light performance.

A dslr also has much better optics. The ability to use interchangeable lenses which are optically far superior to any lens on a point and shoot camera.

DSLR's also have much faster and more accurate auto focus, better faster processors and are fully adjustable.

Even the best point and shoot does not come close to the cheapest DSLR when it comes to performance and image quality.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/mpmyth.htm

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Will a 90's era Canon lens work on my 350D?

Serge

I really want to buy a lens, however i don't have cash for a new one. i was offered a 28-135mm canon lens but the seller said it was 90's era. will this fit the mount on my 350d? And if there are, are there Sigma or Tamron lenses that are 28-135mm? please include links if you can...thank you!

Answer
When Canon introduced the EOS autofocus 35mm SLR camera line in 1987 they changed their lens mount. Canon SLR cameras prior to 1987 used the FD mount. If the lens you've been offered was used on an EOS camera then it will work with your Canon 350D.

Canon Lens?

Q. I have a Rokinon lens from my 22 year old Minolta 35mm camera. I was wondering if this lens would fit my new Canon Eos 50, 35mm. Does anyone know, or know how I can find out? Or know of anywhere I can buy a a really cheap lens for my Canon? Thank You

Answer
No.

Minolta lenses only fit minolta. Canon use a different mounting sistem.

Only Pentax uses a k-mount system that is shared by some other brands like Richo and Vivitar.

Your EOS 50 uses "Canon EF lens mount" so any new nautofocus canon lens will fit ok (lenses from digital Canon will not fit). Used lenses are cheaper but you need to check for mold inside the inner lenses.

Canon lenses are divided by quality ("Ultrasonic" are the fastes, and best canon lenses they are also much more expensive, they are also very quiet; " II " are good and with fast autofocus but no so expensive, " III " are cheaper but slow in autofocus).

Somtimes at Wallmart or Sams you can find the III cheaper canon lenses. You can also try your local camera store, or repair shop for a used lens but be careful because some rat-salepeople always try to sell you lenses with mold or scratches.

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What type of camera should i get?

sunshine

I want a camera to take pictures of myself and scenery.
But i don't know which one i should get on my birthday.
I either want a Nikon or a Canon.
I don't want anything over $2,000. My mom wont buy that lol.
And if you do know me can you tell me what type of Nikon or Canon.
thank you for all the advice :}

Answer
Hey there! From the type of camera you're wanting, and a 2000$ price range ( lucky!) you should get a dSLR. The great thing about dSLR's is that they can change lenses, and that they have a sensor size that is 6x bigger than a regular compact camera.

Some basics that you should know before buying a lens:
->It isn't the camera that always makes the best picture, it depends way more on the lens.

-> Megapixels don't really mean much. It will only make a difference depending on how big of pictures you're printing. 6 MP is perfect up until 8.5x11" (standard paper size)

-> Some cameras are better than others in different regions of photography. For example, some are better at sports, others at macro, and others at portraits.

You have so many choices that you can make! Here i'll put the best BEGINNER cameras. After, i'll try and show your options like, getting which lenses, and matching which camera, with reviews from various sites. OK, here we go:P

You have...
-> Canon XSi (640)
->The Canon Rebel XS. ($500)
->Canon Rebel XTi ($600)
->Nikon D40 ($450)
->Nikon D60 ($550)
All of these prices come from Amazon.com.
--------------------------------------...
I'm going to briefly describe each of these cameras

Canon XSi: 12.2 MP. Live View, Self Cleaning sensor, 3.5 FPS, low noise at high ISO.

Canon Rebel XS : 10 MP, Live View, Self Cleaning Sensor, 3 FPS.

Canon Rebel XTi: 10 MP, Sensor Cleaning, 3FPS, No live view.

Nikon D40: 6 MP, 2.5 FPS, HELP menu system (great for beginners!), Lightest out of the ones listed here.

Nikon D60: 10 MP, 3 FPS, Sensor Cleaning.

Note, all of these cameras here come bundled with a lens.

My recommendations: Don't look at megapixels. All they mean is how big you can print your photo while keeping the quality the same. 6 MP will be enough to print amazing full page photos, so do not think that 6mp isn't enough.

Also, make sure you go to a nearby electronic store, and try out these cameras! Get a feel for them, go through the menus...see how it would feel for you.
...The best camera, is a camera that matches you...
Would you want to buy a camera with amazing features, but is confusing, uncomfortable, and frustrating?

As you can see here, the cameras listed are BEGINNER ones. They are really cheap, but still take great pictures. If you were to get one of these cameras (I recommend the XSi, from canon). It costs 640$ on amazon. THEN, i would totally recommend some kind of better lens. You could also just get the camera by itself (590) and buy lenses separately.

So now, i'll show the 4 main options for more professional cameras. I'm only doing this because you have a a good amount of money to spend.

Nikon D90 vs Nikon D300 vs Canon EOS 50D vs Canon EOS 40D.

Nikon D90(1150$, with lens) -> 12 MP, 4.5 FPS, Records Video, 3" LCD, Live View.
Nikon D300(1750$ with lens) -> 12 MP, 6 FPS, 3" LCD, Live View.
Canon EOS 50D (1400$ with lens)-> 15 MP, 6.3 FPS, 3" LCD, Live view
Canon Eos 40D (1050$ with lens)-> 10 MP, 6.5 FPS, 3" LCD, Live view.

The lenses included with these cameras are around 18-135mm. This means you can shoot landscapes and a pretty good range of zoom for portraits etc. The camera i would personally recommend for you would be the D90 (Because it is the cheapest), and it has video. The other cameras here are more for...professionals.

A site that reviews all of these cameras, is here: http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/digital/50D_vs_40D_vs_D300_vs_D90.html

Having said all of this, you don't need one of the more expensive cameras i put here. I would recommend either the Canon XSi or the Nikon D90, as they both have amazing reviews from many people around, but they are great for beginners. The Nikon D90 would be good for you, because you have the money to get it.

Why the Nikon d90? Well, it has video, and is still amazing at photography. For the price i listed (1150$) It comes with an 18-105mm lens. 18 is great for landscapes, while 50 is mainly for portraits. The good thing about this lens is that it has a wide range, so you can shoot landscape-portraits-sports. However, this lens wouldnt be considered a sports lens.

If all you're planning to just shoot portraits and scenery, i would recommend these lenses:

-> The Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D AF. This one has a low aperture (1.8) meaning that it captures light faster. This is IDEAL for shooting in low light conditions, because it will reduce the chance of blur. This lens costs $130 dollars on Amazon.com, which is a STEAL, because it takes such sharp pictures. http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-50mm-Nikkor-Digital-Cameras/dp/B00005LEN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1237121119&sr=8-1

-> If you just want to get a complete, all around lens that you can take anywhere, get the Nikon 18-200mm. This thing does EVERYTHING, and it has VR (vibration reduction, so your images wont be as blurred if you shake the camera). However, it costs $699. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000BY52NU/ref=pd_luc_mri?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance

->If you want something like the 18-200 nikon lens, you can go for the 18-200 Sigma lens. It only costs $400 dollars, but performs nearly as good as that one. If you want more bang for the buck, get this lens. This one also has an image stabilizer (OS which stands for Optical Stabilization) http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000NOSCGW/ref=pd_luc_mri?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance

My recommendations for you would be...get the Nikon D90 (body only) for 900$. Then, get the Nikon 50mm(130$), and the Sigma 18-200 (400$). This will total up to $1430, and you get a great all around lens, and an amazing portrait lens, for shooting in low light.

If you dont need the 18-200, stay with the kit lens (the 18-105) and get the 50mm. This will make your total $1300.

Here is the Nikon D90 (body only) http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-D90-12-3MP-Digital-Body/dp/B001ET5U92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=photo&qid=1237122317&sr=1-1

Here it is with the lens included http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-D90-Digital-18-105mm-3-5-5-6G/dp/B001ENOZY4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=photo&qid=1237122317&sr=1-2

If all of this was too much, then just get the Nikon D90 with the kit lens. It'll still get the job done well.

Good Luck, and even though my answer was really long, i hope it helps.

What would be the best type of camera (under $1000 please) and lens for taking portraits?

audralynn

I plan on minoring in photography and I want to get a head start on taking pictures of people but I have no idea on what kind of lenses and camera I would need to do that...Help would be appreciated!

Answer
If you have a serious professional interest and about $1000, you can start out with either a Canon or Nikon DSLR - you really should check dpreview.com, cameralabs.com and other serious reviews of recent models. The "kit lens" that comes with either will not be good enough for very long, and you should review the course outlines to see what lenses you might need for each.

I suggest you try to handle and go into the menu systems for Canon and Nikon models, because the feel and the preference for the user interface is personal, and once you start with one or the other it's expensive and a major learning curve to change. Both can make professional quality images.

If you are very sure about doing studio portrait photography, you might want to forget the "kit lens" and just buy a good camera body and a professional quality 50mm "prime lens" which will not be adjustable but will provide beautiful images. My guess is that a "minor in photography" will require more versatility than just one lens.

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portrait photography?

jutje

which mode is the best for shooting portrait and
the Best lens for portrait photography is ?

Answer
The traditional 35mm portrait lenses were from the classic 85mm f/1.8 to the other classic 105mm f/2.5. You will notice these are rather fast lenses. Photographers usually shoot their subjects with the lens wide open to reduce distracting backgrounds. Lenses longer than 105mm tend to flatten the facial features, lenses shorter than 85mm lengthen them.

These lens lengths are assuming you are using a 35mm (or full frame) camera. If you are using a Nikon or Canon lens with magnification factors or 1.5x or 1.6x, then the lens on your camera must be shorter that the above mentioned lengths.

85mm would convert to about a 55mm lens and the 105mm a 65mm lens. Perhaps this is one of the reasons that photographers using DSLR camera bodies typically use zoom lenses rather than fixed focal length lenses. Nikon's 24-85mm f/2.8 and Canon's 24-70mm f/2.8 lenses are popular as the utility zoom lens.

What canon camera lens do I need to buy for portrait photography?

KellyMarie

Something that's professional but affordable

Answer
The 50mm f1.8 is a nice starter lens but it's a flimsy piece of plastic.

The 50mm f1.4 is a great lens but I do all my portrait work with my 24-70 f2.8 (awesome lens).

Here are some examples.

http://flic.kr/p/aCQRVY
(light coming from the open church doors. 5DMkII with 24-70 f2.8)

http://flic.kr/p/ar1Tqf
(One flash on shoe bounced off the wall to the right of the frame. 5DMkII with 24-70 f2.8)

http://flic.kr/p/appbzY
(Natural light filtering throught he trees. 24-70 f2.8 on 5DMkII)

http://flic.kr/p/9XPbrw
(Flash on shoe bounced on the ceiling. 60D with 24-70 f2.8)

http://flic.kr/p/8uqayf
(Natural light ... shade under a gazeebo. Rebel T1i with 70-200 f2.8)

http://flic.kr/p/8mgeXa
(Canon Rebel XSi with 50mm f1.8 and one flash behind an umbrella to the right of the frame)

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Canon lens hoods - any way to buy them cheaper than list price?

Q. I have a [Canon EF-S 17-55mm f2.8 IS lens] & a [Canon EF-S 55-250mm f4.5-5 IS lens]. I need to get hoods for both, but I don't want to pay $40-50 or $20-30, respectively..... any way to get the real deal for cheaper? (I mean, I could use that money for gas...) :P

Answer
You can always check to see if you can find them used at B&H, Adorama, KEH, etc. eBay might be a good place to look. But you probably won't find them much cheaper.

A lens hood is a good investment... I mean if you really need the gas money, cut down on driving. Lens hoods do so much more than blocking glare. If you get the Canon ones, the hard plastic also protects your lens. In fact, I would go as far as to say they are much more effective at protecting your lens than any UV or Protector Filter. That's why I don't recommend the rubber lens hoods. The rubber ones are cheaper and can be effective at reducing glare, but the do nothing for protecting your lens. There have been a couple of times a lens has fallen out of a bag and landed on its front with decent impact. If the lens hood wasn't attached, I probably would be on my third 24-70mm 2.8L instead of my first.

canon lens picking help!?

curious ge

i'm buying a Canon Rebel XS shortly (not a XSi cause the difference is to small for an extra $150 I'd rather use that money to buy a lens) so I am obviously going to buy the camera with the 18-55mm lens cause its basic and simple, but i would kinda like to get another lens. i can't decide though 75-300mm or 55-250mm? its a 100 dollar difference and the 55-250 seems better, i will most likely be using this to get a fewww action shots, like horseback riders jumping or maybe a few soccer shots for school games (i would be close in the stands not super far). now it seems that the 55-250 has a better image stabilization but i still can't decide because sams club has a deal where you can get the canon rebel xs with a 18-55mm and a 75-300mm with a canon rebel gadget bag all for only $750!! but is the 75-300mm really worth it?

I really need a case and the 18-55mm right when i get my camera but i am willing to wait on another lens, so should i get the camera&55 that it comes with and buy a bag all for about 600? and then buy the lens later or what? any opinions on the 300mm and 250mm lens would be awesomeeeee!

Answer
i had heard more about Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Lens which is good one.

*70-300mm telephoto zoom lens with f/4-5.6 maximum aperture for Canon SLR cameras
*3-stop Image Stabilizer for reducing camera shake; ring-type ultra-sonic monitor (USM)
*Electro-magnetic diaphragm (EMD) helps create attractive background at large apertures
*Super Spectra lens coating and lens element shaping suppresses flare and ghosting
*Measures 3 inches in diameter and 5.6 inches long; weighs 22.2 ounces; 1-year warranty

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-70-300mm-4-5-6-Lens-Cameras/dp/B0007Y794O/?tag=pntsa-20

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Camera lens question?

RAWRRAWRRA

so i have a Nikon L120 and i was looking to buy a lens for it. I was just wondering if you can just put any Nikon lens on it, or do i have to get a lens specified for my camera? I am looking for a macro lens what would be the average price for a decent one? oh and one last thing, is there an "everyday" lens that i could put on it just for taking random pictures?

thanks for your time!

Answer
What u have is a bridge camera. U can't change lenses on it.

If u see ne1 saying they r selling a lens 4 ur camera it's not a lens. It's just a filter that screws onto the end of the camera's lens. They r all poor quality & not worth what u'd spend on them.

How do I get good pictures out of my Holga 135bc 35mm camera?

Lindsay Ga

I'm not very good with cameras, but I have a Holga 135bc 35mm camera because I loved the pictures its supposed to take. when i went to get them developed, only 4 of them came out and they were nothing like other pictures ive seen. they came out very bad. not sure what im doing wrong. help please??

Answer
While the Holga lens will add some interesting characteristics to your images, a certain essential ingredient must be added to each photo to make them work... your brain! When learning how to use your camera (any camera- digital, or lo-fi film camera), you must put a little thought into what you are doing. Once you get the hang of it, you won't need to think about it much, as the thought process becomes automatic.

One of the things you must be aware of is your film camera's limitations. You say only a few photos came out. One mistake that I see often, is that people willl often shoot in low light condtions. While digital cameras will often get an image under these conditions, film is usually not sensitive enough to shoot under the same condtions. Holga cameras like light, and lots of it. For now, shoot in good sunlight, or if shooting indoors, night or other low light conditions, use a flash unit.

What film are you using? Your choice of film will often make a difference. One thing to look for is a film with an ISO rating of 400. The ISO rating is a measure of how sensitive the film is to light. Slower films with a lower ISO rating (ISO160 or 200) are easier to find in your local drugstores, but they require more light to make a proper exposure. If you want good color saturation, a film like Kodak's Portra or Fujifilms 400HD are good choices. I have a blog post about film here:
http://bit.ly/kWhichFilm

Next thing to think about, is how far away are you from your subject? If you are mostly shooting things that are far away from the camera (landscapes, or buildings that are far away), you aren't giving the lens much to work with. What I mean by that, is that the unique characteristics of the Holga lens give a sharp-blurry feel, but the subject must be fairly close to your camera to make the differences more easily apparent. If you haven't tried it, get closer to your subject, and check your focus setting as you move in.

Another thing to consider, is what time of day you are shooting. If you are shooting around noon, when the sun is high, the light from the sun becomes flat, and the shadows are short and harsh. If you try shooting in the late afternoon or early moring, the shadows become longer and the low raking sunlight will give an interesting texture to the subjects.

This is a lot to think about, but just a little awareness of the conditions you are shooting under, and few other things will give your photos that little extra bit of something that you are probably missing from your photos.

I have a video on how to make sure the camera settings are right for each photo. I use that acronym SAFE to remiind me.
S - Shutter setting, for everyday outdoor shooting, the camera shutter setting should be on N.
A- Aperture, choose the appropriate aperture setting for the light condtions. Sunny or Cloudy.
F- Focus, set the lens to the appropriate distance from your subject.
E- Expose! Trip the shutter and take the photo, advance the film.

Repeat as necessary.

The video I made for this is done with a Holga 120, but the basics still apply:
http://bit.ly/kShootHolga

For more info on lo-fi photography, visit my website:
http://dianacamera.com

For more how to videos for Holga and other lo-fi cameras, check out my youtube channel:
http://www.youtube.com/kaituba

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Canon t3i lens?????????

Damien

I purchased this camera yesterday and it came with a 18-55mm lens. It cost me 750 dollars. I am thinking of returning it and exchanging it for a canon t3i but the lens will be 55-250 mm for 950 dollars. What's the best deal? I am a amateur @ this. This is my first dslr. What is the difference in the lens? What makes a lens better then others? TY

Answer
Don't waste your time, the shop's time and your money.
Just buy the Canon EF-S 55-250 f/4-5.6 IS that you will find for under $200

eg
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-55-250mm-4-5-6-Stabilizer-Telephoto/dp/B000V9D5LG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1343117404&sr=8-2&keywords=canon+55-250

That way you have a T3i with both lenses for $920.
BTW the 55-250 is a great lens but is way too long for many purposes. I have this lens and it is used for maybe 10-15% of my shots.

what's the best canon lens?

panchivris

Answer
The best Canon lens is called "A Nikon."

Just kidding.

Canon's best lenses have the "L" in their name, which stands for Loser. Just kidding again. I don't know what the L stands for. I think Canon thinks it sounds good.

Just buy a lens that has a good view and an L in the name from Canon and bring lots of money cuz they r expensive.

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Fixing shattered Canon EF 24–105mm lens?

Hairol

Recently, I've accidentally broken my father's Canon EF 24â105mm lens after it slipped off my arm while I was working it. I've come to realize getting a new lens of the same type is extremely pricey, so I need to know if there's a way to fix itâ Do I send it back to Canon? Will it cost more than buying a new one?

If there's no way to restore it for a cheaper price, I need to know if there's a substitute lens for that type which is of the same quality. I am not very adept in all this camera talk, so I'd appreciate any help.

Answer
You can try, but Canon generally does not repair broken glass. You can usually repair a bad motor, electrical contacts, and other components of the lens - but not the glass.

Each lens is painstakingly aligned at the factory when built, and each piece of glass is typically matched or machined to fit. Therefore, there is no glass stock for replacement glass.

You will have to buy a new lens. This is an $800 lens, and your father likely bought it due to it's quality. Substituting such a lens with a cheaper one will probably not make him happy.

Would a Canon EF 50mm f/2.5 compact macro lens fit on the Canon Rebel camera?

FINN !

Just the original Canon Rebel camera.
[.__.]



Thank yoouu.

Answer
Yes. Any Canon EF lens will work perfectly fine with entry level Canon Rebel DSLR cameras as will Canon EF-S lenses

Canon Rebel 35 mm SLR's can NOT use Canon EF-S lenses

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Which Canon lens should I choose for T3i?

mondoguita

I'm comparing two Canon lenses right now, both fairly similar in price. The Canon EF-S 18-135mm and the Canon EF 28-135mm USM lens. The 28-135mm says it supports "full-frame" camera sensors. I'm not really sure what that means. B&H Photo recommended the 18-135mm EF-S lens, which kind of surprised me as I thought EF lenses were better built?

Currently I'm using a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 prime lens exclusively, but I need more flexibility for family shots and weddings. I'm just wondering which would be the better lens of the two for my T3i body?

Thanks!
To Rick, the wedding is for a friend as a favour! I'm simply asking which lens you would prefer? Not what my use of my camera should be for. I'm doing it to be nice, not to make money.

Answer
What "full frame" means is that any of the Canon EOS 35 mm or 5D and 1D dSLR's can use them

NONE of the Canon EF-S lenses can be used on the above cameras without causing damage to the cameras mirror.

The reason why that lens is recommended has to do with its optical range, decent wide angle to medium telephoto. The 28-135, reduces the angle of view at the wide angle portion of the lenses focal range.

If you are billing enough for your weddings, you should be able to pay off the 24-70 mm f/2.8 in a few weeks.


Actually the "best" lens for shooting weddings is the 24-70 mm f/2.8. It covers all the ranges you need and is a fast lens, perfect when shooting under low light conditions when flash is not appropriate

Canon 5D lens pairing?

DechenneDr

(If you are poor and can only afford ONE lens, in the 1200 and down range...what lens would it be? If you prefer to shoot weddings and/or portraits.)

Answer
Canon 24-70 mm f 2.8 L about that price.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/little_pooky/2386299105/sizes/o/

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What is the best canon lens for filming documentaries?

iya.george

I'm looking for a really sharp, fast lens that works well in low light conditions. It can't create a really shallow depth of field however as it would be too hard, the slightest movement would put it all out of focus so this rules out 85mm 1.2 :( however, I'd like a similar lens like that (possibly at half the price too) but that does all of the above! Also, do you recommend any other lenses in particular for filming documentaries (and general filming as I often make trailers etc) thanks!
Oops, yes, I meant a DSLR, I find them loads easier to control!

Answer
Filming requires you use a 16 mm or 35 mm motion picture camera, so this answer covers filming.

If on the other hand, you are calling using a dSLR with a video feature "filming" look further below

The lens you choose depends upon what is called for in the script.

I have used Leica, Nikkor and Canon lenses on various motion picture cameras that have "T" stops engraved on them and have been converted to fit the ARRI or other camera we were using.

Here is a site that rents production gear including motion picture and HD video cameras.

Rental lenses

http://www.birnsandsawyer.com/_camera-rentals/lenses/

Rental cameras

http://www.birnsandsawyer.com/_camera-rentals/16mm-cameras/

http://www.birnsandsawyer.com/_camera-rentals/35mm-cameras/

http://www.birnsandsawyer.com/_camera-rentals/hd-cameras/

As you can see, most camera rentals include a lens.

Answer 2:

Some of the shooting lenses used when using a dSLR to shoot video:

16-85 mm, 12-24 mm, 24 mm and 70-200 mm lenses

The larger that aperture and longer the lens, the easier it is to control selective depth of field.

Too assure critical focus, you will need something like this

http://www.markertek.com/LightBox.asp?b=HCKP&x=0

A camera for a music video ?

vileC

Ok so I want to get the cheapest camera possible with these specs

â¢25 FPS
â¢.48 KHz audio
â¢1920x1080 HD
â¢50 Mb/s bitrate

Haha I don't know these things and I got these of a website
Those are the requerments they give so I don't know if some of those are referring to the songs audio

I would really apreciate if someone could help me

Thanks a lot :D

Answer
There are cameras that fit your specs that are not camcorders but stills cameras that do video. Some examples are the Panasonic GH3, Canon 70D, Canon 6D, and the soon to be released Panasonic GH4 which does bit rates up to 200 mbps for 2k HD and 100 mpbs for 4k.

The cheapest of the cameras I mentioned is the Panasonic GH3 which costs just under $1,000 with no lenses included. It will do 50 mpbs and 72 mpbs. 50 mpbs is considered the minimum for broadcast standard video which is why you likely got this from the website.

All of the cameras I mentioned above are cheaper then camcorders that do the higher bit rates. Cameras like the Canon XF100 and XF300 do the 50 mpbs in camera but with much smaller sensors and the cost is closer to $3,000 - $5,000. The advantage of the camcorder is that you have a fixed lens and do not need to buy additional lenses but you can get a GH3 with some really good lenses for less money still.

You do not need to be obsessed with a the 50- mpbs mark though. As I have said above unless you budget is close to $2,000 you will not be able to touch that bit rate as easily. The GH3 may be under $1,000 but you will need to buy lenses and that will push your cost at or above $2,000. Major motion picture work has been done with DSLR's that only shoot 24 mpbs video. Visually you may not notice any difference between 24 and 50. The difference shows up more in post production where you have more room to edit video shot with higher bit rates and less compression.

If I was going to recommend a budget camera for this kind of work it would be the Panasonic G6. You can get it for less then $600 right now with a kit lens. If you have budget left over go out and rent some additional lenses for the video shoot. If you want the camera to do focusing for you pick lenses by Panasonic or Olympus. It is also a good idea to get lenses that an aperture at or below 2.8. This will help you get a more cinematic look as well give you more flexibility in shooting in low light. The other benefit of the G6 is that it does do 60 frames per second in full HD which allow for some slow motion photography which is often used in music videos.

As another poster mentioned music video audio is usually a copy of the recorded studio track that is put into the video in post production. You will however want to record in camera audio for syncing purposes if you are showing the performers singing the lyrics in the video. I would recommend the purchase of a shotgun microphone or the rental of one. My personal favorites are made by Rode but Sennheiser also makes some good ones. If you are doing a live track for your music video you will likely want to consider also buying or rental an external recorder like the Zoom H1 or H4.

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Please Let Me Choose The Best Lens For 60D?

Lot Lost K

I've Decided To Buy A DSLR Now, The Canon EOS 60D, And Its My First DSLR. But I'm Extremely Confused About Lenses. I Read Meny Articles, But Those Made Me More Confused.

I Shot Every Types Of Photos, Specially Macro, Landscape, Zoom. So I Might Need An All In One Lens, For Everyday Purpose.

After Many Research, I Decided To Buy These Lenses If I Don't Get Good Solution.

- Tamron 18-270mm
- Canon 50mm f/1.8

I Also Want To Take Another Lens But That Very Costly To Me, The Canon 15-85mm.

Please Suggest Me For Some Cheap Good All In One Lenses.

Also, Do I Need An External Flash?

Answer
At B&H the Canon 60D with the 18-135mm zoom lens is shown for $1,199.00 after a $100.00 "Instant Savings" from B&H that ends 6-30-2012. http://www.bhphotovideo.com

Since you're just starting out I strongly suggest buying the camera with the 18-135mm lens. You didn't mention sports or wildlife as interests so the 18-135mm zoom should be sufficient for your current needs. Spend the next 6 to 8 months learning to use your new camera and exploring the capabilities of the 18-135mm lens.

Other than a couple of memory cards the only additional accessories I'd suggest are these:

1) A UV filter to protect the front element of your lens.
2) A Circular Polarizer for your landscape photography. It darkens a blue sky and enhances colors. It also removes/reduces glare/reflections from glass, water, sand, snow and painted metal - but not polished metal.
3) A lens cloth to clean your filters.

NOTE: Buy quality filters such as B+W, Hoya, Heliopan or Tiffen. Buy them in a "thin" or "slim" mount to avoid any possible vignetting (dark corners on your pictures) when using the wide (18mm) end of your 18-135mm zoom.

You might want to consider adding a tripod to your shopping list especially if you do a lot of landscape photography. I consider a tripod mandatory for good landscapes.

Back when I bought my first 35mm SLR (July of 1971) the camera came with a 50mm f1.7 lens. There really weren't any quality zoom lenses back then. I used my camera and 50mm lens for well over a year before buying a second lens - a 24mm wide angle.

Wider lens adaptor for macro lens?

Alyssa

I have a Canon 5D Mark II and only have a fixed 100mm canon macro lens for it. I'm going on a trip soon and would like to be able to take pictures of landscapes and other wider shots. Is there such thing as a wide angle lens adaptor or something that I can attach to my macro lens? I'd rather not spend $1000+ on a new lens right now...

Answer
Any type of screw-on so-called "wide angle adapter" is a complete waste of money - not to mention the image degradation that it will cause. Your best option in my opinion is the Canon EF 17-40mm f4L USM zoom which will be ideal for landscapes and reasonably well-lit interiors. Its shown for $739.00 at B&H - http://www.bhphotovideo.com - after a $100.00 "Instant Savings" from B&H that ends 9-29-2012.

You'll also want a good tripod for your landscapes. If you don't have one then look at the Benro "Travel Angel" series. http://www.benrousa.com/main/

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wide angle lens for DX cameras?

eleni

hi everyone.I just have some things confused in my mind.I was thinking of buying wide angle lens.The thing is i have a nikon d3100 which is a crop sensor camera.so the standart mm for wide angle is at 35mm?. this means that anything until 35 mm is considered wide angle right?so if i buy lets say a 12-24 mm lens shooting at 12 mm on my camera that would really be 18 mm(cause of 12 mm x 1.5 crop factor =18 mm).Unless i am using DX Lens?If i buy a DX lens then i dont have to multiplie the mm x the crop sensor?so which wide angle lens is best for crop sensor cameras?
hope that makes sense
thanks
What i am trying to say is that if its stated on the lens DX does this means that when shooting for example at 12 mm, it will actually be 12 mm and not 18 mm( 12 x 1,5 crop sensor=18 mm)?DX means the lens is especially for dx cameras?

Answer
First, the focal length of a lens never changes even on a crop sensor DSLR like your D3100. What does change, however, is the "equivalent angle of view". At 18mm your 18-55mm zoom will have the equivalent angle of view of a 27mm lens on a 35mm film camera or full-frame DSLR. The focal length is still 18mm. A 12mm lens on your D3100 will have the equivalent angle of view of an 18mm lens on a 35mm film camera or full-frame DSLR. The focal length is still 12mm.

Whether the lens is DX or FX the 1.5x crop factor applies.

On a 35mm film camera or full-frame DSLR a focal length of 50mm is considered a "normal" lens because its angle of view approximates that of your eyes. On your D3100 the 50mm has the equivalent angle of view of a 75mm lens so it is a good choice for portraits. A 35mm lens on your D3100 will have the equivalent angle of view of a 52.5mm lens so on your D3100 it would be considered a "normal" lens - just like a 50mm lens on a 35mm film camera or full-frame DSLR.

Using a DX lens on a DX camera?

JDR

If you use a DX lens on a DX camera do you still have to add in the crop factor to the focal length?

I was thinking of getting the Nikon 35mm DX lens. Will it be true 35mm or will it actually be 52mm????

Answer
You are confusing several terms here.

The 35mm lens will be true genuine and real 35mm on any camera. This is a physical characteristic of a lens. It means that from entering the first element and until reaching the sensor the light travels exactly 35mm. That's what a focal length is. So all physical characteristics of the image, including the depth of field, size of bokeh and aperture of that lens will be exactly the same on any camera.

Now, as far as the field of view - or coverage area, it will of course cover the smaller area, than a full frame camera, because the sensor is smaller. So it will cover about the same area as a 52mm lens on FX body. But it is not correct to say, that it will actually be 52mm, it will still be 35mm, with a coverage equivalent of 52mm lens on a film camera.

The difference between DX and FX lens, is that DX lens projects smaller circle of light, so that when used with a smaller DX sensor, it just fits into that circle. This allows to make lenses smaller, lighter and cheaper. The FX lens would project larger circle, that is big enough for full size sensor, part of which will not be utilized in DX body. That's the only difference. But a 35mm lens is always 35mm.

Hope I didn't confuse you too much?

LEM.

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Beginner Film Camera?

Erica Leig

I've dabbled in a bit of film photography and finally want to invest in a film camera of my own. I'm just conflicted on what camera I should get.
I know I want a older camera from the 70s or early 80s, and I've narrowed it down to the brands Minolta, Nikon, and Canon.
But from there I'm lost.
If anyone has any camera recommendations I'd very much appreciate it!

Thanks in advance :)

Answer
Good question Erica!

You're going to get a ton of completely subjective answers here. Everyone is just going to tell you their personal favourites. And like everyone else, I have mine also. However, I think we can break things down into some reasoning for particular cameras for you.

I believe the best first cameras are those which are 100% mechanical/manual with no unnecessary auto features to distract the student photographer. 100% manual cameras are also cheaper and more reliable than those with auto features. Auto features are usually very timely to when the camera was made and don't always apply to all other cameras, however, all the manual settings on every camera ever made revolve around the same principles, so learning them will allow you to move into any other type of camera you are interested in.

If you are down with that method of learning, and it is usually required by the class anyway, the next question then becomes, what are some of the best 100% mechanical/manual 35mm slr's? After about 10 years of shooting and buying and selling many different model 35mm slr's, there are two which stand out to me as the most reliable, easy to come by, easy to resell and easy to find accessories for but also aren't too expensive for someone just starting out yet give professional results when used properly.

They are the Pentax K1000 with Pentax SMC-A or M 50mm f2 or 1.7 and the Nikon FM with Nikkor 50mm 1.8 or 1.4.

I have owned many of these cameras as well as other similar models but these served the functions I described the best, in my opinion. I feel completely comfortable suggesting them to a student and knowing that they will get their full value of both learning and enjoyment out of these models.

You can buy them at www.KEH.com and there are tons of great reviews of these cameras if you search for them online. DO NOT BUY FROM eBAY! Often the prices are not much better than KEH.com and you're not getting much, if any of a return policy. Plus, do you know how to assess the functional condition of vintage camera? Neither do more than half the people selling them on there. Not to mention that vintage cameras need to be serviced. KEH does that, or at least checks for it with all their cameras. If you find anything wrong with the camera, you can send it back to them and they'll replace or repair it. Not many eBayer's are offering that! Ebay is really a waste of time in hopes to save a little money. Once you get more experienced with buying old cameras, eBay is wonderful. But I think it's irresponsible of anyone to recommend buying your first/only 35mm slr there.

You can download users manuals for them for free and you'll want to pick up a basic photography manual also.

Canon never really made many affordable 100% mechanical cameras and no longer offers one as far as I know. The lenses of their older, most affordable manual SLR's also do not fit their modern DSLR's but Pentax and Nikon's do. So when you buy vintage Pentax and Nikon lenses, you can keep them for a digital camera you may buy later. Because they are so compatible, they hold their value better than Canon lenses also. Canon makes excellent gear but I personally don't see much sense in looking to them for a camera of this type.

Minolta SLR's are generally not very rugged to my experience. I've handled/owned over 10 various bodies and they all broke or were broken except for one! Others obviously have different experiences and much of it probably depends on what climate region they are located in, but I NEVER hear about this many issues with K1000's or FM's. What is nice about Minolta SLR's though, is that the lenses can be used on their newer cameras and Sony DSLR's.

I hope that whatever you choose to buy, you enjoy learning about film photography and do some work you are really proud of. Feel free to email me at any time for questions.

JohnnyMartyr@Hotmail.com

Beginner DSLR camera?

Shelly

Im a newbie to photography, my friend recently got a canon DSLR camera and I was immediately fascinated.

I want to do mostly wildlife/landscape photography.

My range is up to $800. I heard at least 10 megapixels is good? Not bulky, relitively small and light. I also want flash and HD video

I picked out these two cameras, what do you all think?

Canon EOS Rebel T2i
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/pâ¦

Sony Alpha A580
http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/storâ¦

Any other recommendations?

also, what is frames per second, aperture, and shutter speed?

Thank you so much.

Answer
First off, try this.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/recommended-cameras.htm

This guy uses Nikons. The D3100 (about $650) is a great starter camera.
You like the idea about shooting wildlife? you might want a 200-300 mm lens to start off with: nikon makes some great little starter lenses in those ranges (provided you take pictures only in the bright of day). They are:

55-200: http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/lineup/lens/zoom/telephotozoom/af-s_dx_zoom55-200mmf_4-56g_ed/index.htm

55-300: http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/lineup/lens/zoom/telephotozoom/af-s_nikkor55-300mmf_45-56g_ed_vr/index.htm

and, if you can afford it (hey, we can all dream...): http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/lineup/lens/zoom/normalzoom/af-s_nikkor28-300mmf_35-56gd_ed_vr/index.htm

To answer your other questions:

Frames per second: the number of pictures your camera will take in ONE second (today's cameras can take anywhere from 3 to 12, if not faster.

Aperture is the opening size of your lens. Typically, it's a number like 1.4, 1.8, 3.5, 5.6. This refers to how much light your lens will let into your camera. Smaller numbers are better, though certainly more expensive.

Shutter speed: duration of time your shutter will stay open to expose your photo sensor (formerly film). 1/30 is half the time of 1/60. 1/125 or faster (like 1/250, or 1/500) are what you would want for shooting animals running outside, or birds flying.

Hope this helps!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guyfromclearwater/sets/


http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/lineup/lens/zoom/normalzoom/af-s_dx_18-200mmf_35-56g_ed_vr2/index.htm

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What is the best lens for Canon 50D for outside family portraits?

uahgal11

Answer
The Canon 50mm f1.8 or 50mm f1.4 depending on your budget. However, its not because of the f-stop but because a 50mm lens on your 1.6x "cropped sensor" 50D will have the angle of view of an 80mm lens on a 35mm film camera or full-frame DSLR which makes it a good focal length for portraits with your camera.

You might want to learn about using fill flash for your outdoor portraits. This will help:

http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/fill_flash_use_EOS_article.shtml

Reading this will also help:

http://www.shutterbug.com/techniques/lighting/1100sb_using/

Canon Lens Purchase Advice?

Derek E.

I am about to purchase a lens for my Canon SLR and I am trying to decide between purchasing the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 or the Rokinon 85M-C 85mm F1.4 Aspherical? I am hoping for some advice on which one would be a better buy.

Also, I will be using it for mostly shooting photos of people or just basic photo taking.

Thank You!

Answer
If you have an APS-C camera, basic shooting would be better with a normal/standard lens like the 35mm. For full-frame, that would be 50mm. These lenses will also do great for whole body portraits making you stay relatively close to your subject.

Shooting close-up portraits would be better with a short telephoto lens. That would be around 50mm for APS-C and around 80mm for full-frame. It will push you a bit further away from your subject so you wouldn't be "leaning" too close towards the subject.

http://keerok-photography.blogspot.com/2011/05/lenses-so-many-of-them-there-is-no-best.html

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What is the best camera to buy for sports photography?

Winged Whe

First of all I am a PHD user of cameras (Push Here Dummy) (I don't want to deal with changing of lenses, focusing, backlighting, etc.) I have 2 kids in sports (soccer, gymnastics, basketball & football). They are often far away in the middle or on the other side of the field and of course in action! I want to be able to take quality CLOSE UP pictures with PHD function - good, fast, self-focusing zoom function an absolute must, and multiple fast repeating shots. So what are the best ones out there - I am not made of money so I would like to stay well under $1,000 while maintaining quality of picture and product performance. Anyone who has the experience to advise on what the aspects are to consider with regard to zoom capabilities/multi-frame shots and/or pinpoint a couple of selections would be greatly appreciated. (We have 7.0 mega pixel purse size camera, but its zoom while O.K. for nearby photos is O.K. just won't cut it for the sports!)

Answer
Unfortunately, the only cameras that can truly catch any action shots are exactly what you said you do not want. A DSLR camera with interchangeable lenses is really the only cameras that don't have perceptible shutter lag. I know of no point and shoot camera that does not have shutter lag from a half second or worse.

DSLR cameras are really modified film cameras so all the digital image related maters are dealt with after the sensor is exposed. Point and shoot cameras do a whole list of things after you press the shutter release and before the exposure is actually made.

Best digital camera with manual controls (DSLR?) for a beginner and information on using a manual camera?

PixdeeArti

I have been taking photos for years with a nice point and shoot. I think I have developed a good eye for content, but it is time to actually have good equipment to go with it. There is only so far PhotoShop can take you if the original is not high quality. My point and shoots are a Minolta Dimage Z2 and a Olympus Stylus 770Sw for underwater. I have a few lenses for the Dimage that have helped, but I think I am ready for the next level.

I need advice on two things 1) Best entry level manual control digital camera - possibly a DSLR - at the best price for what you get (prefer under $1000 if possible) 2) Best book and/or other information about f stops, exposure, etc. that you need to know for using these types of cameras.

Answer
Nikon D80.

The D40-60 range is cheaper but it doesn't autofocus with all Nikon AF lenses, a significant flaw.

Get the kit lens to start, or better yet the 18-70.

Here's the book:

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Cameras-Photography-Dummies-Computer/dp/0470149272/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1203206299&sr=8-2

You should also stock up on books by Cartier-Bresson, Avedon, Ansel Adams and the other greats.

HTH
V2K1

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Best 50mm lens for Canon t3i?

Michael Ca

I recently bought a canon t3i and the standard kit lens just isn't cutting it for me, so I'm looking to a buy a good 50mm lens. Which would be better, 1.8 or 1.4? I would think 1.4 since it gives the option of an even shallower depth of field and more light right? Can someone help by providing links? Thank you!
I'm aware I can crank the ISO up but I'm referring more to videos than anything, I should have been more clear. If I put the ISO anywhere above 1600 the film becomes grainy and adds artifacts I don't want.

And I mean the kit lens isn't "cutting it" as it does not perform very well in low light situations.

Answer
Get the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Standard AutoFocus Lens. That lens is a great one to have. It works great on the t3i http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005K47X/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00005K47X&linkCode=as2&tag=cheonlsto-20

Canon T3i Zoom Lens Options?

Jam Jam

Hi friends, my husband and I are going to Tahiti and I want to purchase a great zoom lens. Please let me know what will capture all my scenic adventures.. Thanks so much!
Thank you sooo much! I really appreciate both of your feedback. I will have to look into this. :) This is a trip of a lifetime so I want gorgeous pics.

Answer
I my experience, I have a t1i, I find the Canon 75-300 to do good work. As I just posted on the previous question about this lens... work like this.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jimsphotostuff/4761423549/in/photostream

But there are drawbacks to any long lens. The main one being that as you magnify the view you magnify everything - camera shake included. You are more likely to get blur at long zoom. There's a couple of ways around that. One is a tripod, very inconvenient if you're moving a lot.

The other way around it is to do what I did on the above shot... use 1/1000 shutter speed. It works very well in bright sun zoomed or not. I also suggest that when you find a long zoom shot you want,
this is hand held, shooting at 1/1000, fire off several frames of the same subject. If you get some blur on one you may not have it in the next, that sort of thing.

While shooting the bird in the above shot I probably fired off 40 frames in just a couple of minutes.
I got several with no blur and in focus but not all - get my drift.

They're just digital files so it doesn't matter how many you fire. What does matter is the result. If you fire 40 and get one keeper you've succeeded. If you fire one and it's not a keeper... well you get the idea.

I like to use the example of a free lance professional who was working in the Pacific Rim for National Geographic. Wild life was the subject. He was in the area for 3-weeks using film. He fired off some,
this according to him, 3,000 frames. The magazine used two. Point is with only two he was still successful. Good luck and I hope you have a fun time.

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Nikon camera lens question?

michael l

i just bought a Nikon D3100 18-55 VR camera and i don't know much about photography. it came with the basic 18-55 lens. i am looking for the kind of lens that will give a clear picture of the person or object but will make the background blurry like a magazine photo. i just dont know what lens will do this. was hoping someone can give me the name of the lens i need to get the blurry back ground. also i just need the lense for close or portrait photos. thanks

Answer
Here is a list of Nikon lens that can give you what you're looking for (close up shot with blurry background), some are pricey though. I didn't mention the 35mm & the 50mm because for close up shot you'll need to be very close of the subject with those two, especially the 35mm (and this one has a bit of distortion), if you're looking for more room between you and your subject have a look at those:


85mm 1.8 (AF won't work with your DSLR, only manuel focus)
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/84151-USA/Nikon_1931_AF_Nikkor_85mm_f_1_8D.html

85mm 1.4
http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Camera-Lenses/2195/AF-S-NIKKOR-85mm-f%252F1.4G.html

105mm 2.8 macro
http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Camera-Lenses/2160/AF-S-VR-Micro-NIKKOR-105mm-f%252F2.8G-IF-ED.html

70-200mm 2.8vr
http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Camera-Lenses/2185/AF-S-NIKKOR-70-200mm-f%252F2.8G-ED-VR-II.html

80-200mm 2.8 (AF won't work with your DSLR, only manuel focus)
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/124669-GREY/Nikon_1986_AF_Zoom_Nikkor_80_200mm_f_2_8D.html

Best fisheye lens for a Nikon D3100 (DSLR Camera)?

Brandon

I want to get a fisheye to film with on my DSLR. Ive been looking into a Rokinon 8mm and an Opteka 6.5mm. Im not trying to sound cheap, but im not in a good financial position to pay alot of money for a Sigma. So if theres any other fisheye lens I can put on my DSLR, that are 250 or less, Id appreciate it if you told me about it.
-Thanks

Answer
The 6.5 mm lens will give you better coverage.

But when a Nikkor and Sigma costs nearly $1,000, the Rokinon or Opteka are about as low a price as you will find

Just save your pennies just wait until you can budget for one of them. Unless there is an assignment that requires you to use a fisheye, you will have to wait

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Cleaning very dirty camera lenses?

Truth

I have two lenses, a 70-210 Tamron and a 35-135 Kiron. They are for my Nikon F3s and I haven't used them for a few years since I got my dig's. Problem is I want to give them and an F3 to a friend and I had set them aside with no caps and forgot about them. Just looked and they each have a layer of dirt on them which I have no idea how to clean. Predictably worried about scratches. If I have blown off all that can be what's the next step? Dishwasher? (kidding) Thannks

Answer
Buy a lens cleaning kit with the liquid made for camera lenses. First, use a very soft bristle brush to remove any loose dust/dirt and then wet a piece of the lens tissue and very gently wipe from the center of the lens to the edge. Repeat as necessary, using a new lens tissue each time. DO NOT put the lens cleaning solution directly on the lens.

Once the lenses are clean, suggest to your friend that they invest in a good quality UV filter for each lens. In the future all they'll have to clean is the filter.

Camera help.?

Bocadillo8

So I have a Canon EOS Digital Rebel, and in the manual, it says I have to buy a special clothe and cleaner to clean the lense.

Is there any way I can just clean it with normal household materials, so I dont have to go out and buy stuff to clean just my camera?

Thanks.

Answer
Usually, any place that sells cameras will also sell lens cleaning kits or supplies. They include soft tissues and cleaning solution. Eye glass products will work also as said above. Avoid anything not made for the purpose such as paper towels because you don't know what is in them and you could end up scratching your lens. I will get chastised for saying this but, since I am from the old school never try and clean a lens dry. Blow off dust first with a bulb blower and then use the moistened tissues. Don't spray liquid directly on lens. Also, take care to not wipe the lens with the part of the tissue you are holding as this will transfer the oil from your fingers to the lens. I know it is a bit nitpicky but if you want clean lenses it has to be done.
One tip is to use a filter on your lens at all times. A UV haze or skylight filter is good for keeping on all the time. Then you clean the filter instead of the lens and don't have to worry about scratching your more expensive lens.

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can you use an FX lens on a DX camera body?

Jacob

I have a nikon D3000, which is dx, and i would like to know if i could use an fx lens on it

Answer
proshooter's answer might be confusing to you. You absolutely can use an FX lens on your camera. You will see EXACTLY what the image will look like in the viewfinder before you take the picture. His answer makes it sound like you will lose some of what you see in the viewfinder, but you won't.

Technically, he is correct. The FX lens throws a larger image circle, but the sensor only uses part of the potential image.

I use FX lenses on my DX camera almost every day. No problems.

Which are the lenses MUST have for Nikon DX camera?

Rodolfo

Which are the lenses MUST have for Nikon DX camera? I want to see what your favorite lenses for the DX camera. Price doesn't matter at all but if you asked, then no more than 1,500 dollars.

Prime lenses?

Zoom lenses?

Fisheye lenses?

Wide-angle lenses?

Probably Micro lenses?

Addition, I'm getting Nikkor 50mm 1.8G and Sigma 70-200mm APO EX DG OS since I can't afford nikkor 70-200mm F2.8. Thanks!!

Answer
The lens selection depends on the DX camera you have. If you have an entry level camera (D3xxx, D5xxx, D40, D60) then you will want an AF-S lens. If you have an up-scale camera (D90, D7xxx, D300s, etc), one that has an internal focusing motor, then either AF-S or AF lenses will autofocus.

While the AF lenses are older, a few of them can still be purchased new, and they often present a great value. One example is the AF 80-200mm f/2.8. Nikon has kept this lens around as it has about the same quality as the AF-S 70-200, but at half the price. With the 80-200, you lose the AF-S focusing speed and VR, but for most situations this is not a problem. It remains to be seen whether Nikon will discontinue this lens in favor of the AF-S 70-200mm f/4.

I'll tell you which lenses I own, and for what reason. You can judge for yourself if your needs are similar.

Fast Sports Telephoto:

I own the afore-mentioned Nikon AF 80-200 f/2.8. I use it for a sports lens. The lens is around $1,200, and again, will not autofocus on Nikon entry level cameras.

Super wide angle/landscape:

I own a Tokina 11-16 f/2.8. The original lens did not have an autofocus motor, but recently Tokina introduced the 11-16mm f/2.8 DX2, which does have an internal focus motor, and will focus with an entry level camera. This lens is very good at photos of rooms in available light (f/2.8) as well as wide landscape vistas. The Dx (old version) of this lens is around $600, the Dx2 (autofocus motor version) is around $750.

Fisheye:

I have the Nikon AF 10.5mm f/2.8. For some reason, this is the only DX lens that Nikon has that does not have an internal focusing motor, meaning it will not autofocus on an entry-level camera. But you get what you pay for, and while this is a $700 lens, it is the best you can get for a Nikon DX camera.

Macro:

I actually own two Macros. The Nikon AF-S 40mm ($300) and Tokina AF 100mm ($500).

The Tokina is also a non-internal focus motor lens, so again, it will not autofocus on an entry level Nikon. But the Nikon AF-S 40mm will. The reason I own both lenses is DoF. At macro ranges, the DoF is wafer thin, and I use the 40mm when taking photos of flowers or inanimate objects, as you have to get pretty close. But the DoF is more favorable.

For bugs, I use the 100mm as it allows me to step back a bit. But due to the reduced DoF, I have to stop down the aperture to f/22 or less (the lens goes to f/64). This also requires the use of a macro flash even on a bright sunny day. A macro flash ($600 and up) is essential for 100mm, but you can get by without one with the 40mm focal lengths.

So, for general macro use, I go with the 40mm. For bugs, I bring out the 100mm and macro flash system.

Prime:

In addition to the 40 and 100mm macros, which are primes, I have a 50mm f/1.8. The cost of these lenses are so low that everyone should have one. The AF 50mm f/1.8 is around $120, and the AF-S 50mm f/1.8 is $200. Some like the 35mm for DX, but I still prefer the 50mm.

Telephoto:

Other than the 80-200mm f/2.8 I use for sports. I have a Tokina 80-400mm f/4.5~5.6 ($600) and Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5~5.6 ($570). I use the Nikon under most telephoto conditions, and I am considering selling the Tokina.

I also own a Nikon V1 with FT-1 adapter. This allows me to mount the Nikon AF-S 70-300mm on the V1. And with the 2.7 crop factor of the V1, I have an equivalent 190~810mm lens. The lens is fully functional on the V1, so it is my "long-reach" solution. Especially for travel, I can take my DSLR and V1 and use this lens with both cameras.

The V1, having a smaller sensor, does not have the performance of a DSLR, but it is far superior than the typical bridge compact camera.

Travel lens:

Finally, I have a Nikon AF-S 18-200mm f/3.5~5.6 ($800) that I use for travel. However this is a 12x lens, and like all super-zoom lenses, it does have some issues. It tends to be a bit soft in certain areas when used wide open. However, like most lenses, this improves as you stop down, and I have found that stopping down to f/8 clears up these issues.

The limitation of using this lens in the daylight (f/8) is an acceptable compromise for me when using this lens for travel, as I don't have to lug around a bunch of lenses.

Final thoughts:

This is my current lens farm. My camera is a Nikon D90, which is still a good performer. I will probably replace it in a year or two, but for now, it still meets my needs.

If you have noticed, about 80% of my investment is in lenses, not the camera. As an amateur, I have not done this all at once, but over a period of 8~10 years.

This I think is the best approach. Buy the minimum DSLR that will meet your needs, then focus on buying the best lenses you can. Finally, upgrade the DSLR after you have your lenses.

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Advice on DSLR Camera zoom lens?

riggers

Hello all keen photographers!

I wondered if you'll could answer a few Q's for me..

1) Is this the correct order for the way a camera is built?

a) lens
b) aperture
c) shutter
d) image sensor

2) Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AF D

what does the 'D' stand for?

3) 18-55mm lens

Is 18mm the distance between the lens and the shutter, or the distance between the lens and the aperture?
Likewise is 55mm the distance between the lens and the shutter, or the distance between the lens and the aperture?

4) If you'll have time and don't mind, could you have a look at some of my flics on 'Flickr'

I'd really appreciate some feedback on my shots. Good feedback, and especially critical feedback. (please leave a comment on each image post)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/31190551@N03/

Lastly, thankyou all so very much for checking out my Q, and thanks in advance for your answers, I really appreciate it!

Riggers..

Answer
What do the letters mean?
G - A new subset of the D-type lenses, without an aperture ring. The aperture is set by a command dial on the camera body.
D - Lens provides distance to subject information to camera; useful for automatic flash setting
ED - Extra low dispersion glass; give superior sharpness and color rendition
IF - Internal focus - the lens does not rotate or extend as it focuses
AF-S - Auto-focus, silent wave focus engine contained inside the lens itself
DX - Lens formatted for digital sensors that should not be used on full frame cameras
VR - Vibration Reduction - a gyroscopic system to detect and correct camera shake to yield sharp images at slower shutter speeds

18mm and 55mm refer to the "focal length" of the lens. If you don't understand that, I suggest that you check out Wiki on the topic, as they will have illustrations to make it clear to you. Scroll down: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focal_length

I don't understand what you mean in the first question about the order in which a camera is made.

You would do a lot better if this was posted as four separate questions. Some people love giving photo critiques and others enjoy answering technical questions. Asking so many questions in one will chase some potential answerers away.

does this camera have zoom and focus on the lens?

Annie

Does this camera: http://www.amazon.com/Canon-T3i-Digital-Imaging-18-55mm/dp/B004J3V90Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1353693294&sr=8-1&keywords=cannon+t3i

have a lens where you can focus and zoom using the lens? or do you have to get a lens for it.
Thanks!

Answer
It's a DSLR and it comes with a kit lens (18-55mm) which 'zooms' between 18mm (wide angle) and 55mm (normal range).

The lens will autofocus on the camera.

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canon t2i(550d), looking for a 50mm lens, value for money and performance wise what can you advise?

noah

shooting video, and want as much advantage i can get in low light with a nice film look?
im a big fan of carl zeiss but the price isn't ideal for me at the moment.

Answer
The 50mm prime lenses available from Canon are the f/1.8, f/1.4 and f/1.2 All three are excellent for low light shooting, with f/1.2 being the one that can shoot in the lowest light conditions. The f/1.8 would be considered economy level, the f/1.4 would be more of a consumer level, and the f/1.2 is a professional level prime.
The f/1.8 is the most inexpensive out of the three, but also the cheapest make. This lens small, compact and most importantly, only about $100. I have this lens and it takes excellent pictures with that great blurry background and sharp focus, but I find the focus ring to be mediocre. The focus ring is very small, about a cm wide and when manually adjusting, might be more difficult, especially for people will larger hands. This lens is completely made of plastic, including the mount, which could be a deal breaker because this makes it substantially less durable than the f/1.2 and f/1.4. However, for the price, this lens is well worth the money.
The f/1.4 is larger, more durable and more expensive than the f/1.8. This lens looks much more like a lens than the f/1.8, it's strong and has a metal mount, but still has the plastic body. This lens is powered by a USM motor and has full-time manual focus. A f/1.4 will cost you around $400 and if you're looking at a good, sturdy lens that isn't overly expensive, this is probably it.
Lastly is the f/1.2 This lens is the largest out of the three and also the most expensive. One of these will set you back about $1000, but is a much more professional lens than the other two. This lens is part of the professional L series that Canon sells and is constructed of all metal with plastic extremities.
You're best bet of finding the perfect lens for you is to go in to a local photography store that provides all three of these and try them all out for yourself. With this information on your mind, you can try them all out and see which one is the best for you, it could be any of these.
Good luck!

What is the best kit lens for canon 550D?

Foxy

I am thinking of getting the canon 550D but dont know which kit lens to get. I read a lot of reviews stating that the 18-55 kit lens is not a good lens and if the 550D is coupled with a proper lens it is outstanding. So what is the best lens to be used with 550D? and if I just get the kit, should I get any additional lens or will the kit lens be just enough?
btw I saw that the left side of the camera says ''eos 550D'' but there is some that says ''rebel T2i'' is there any difference between them?

Answer
Reviews be dammed - the 18-55 gives me excellent results with both my Canon dslr cameras.
The trick is to know how to operate the camera.

However my primary lens is the Canon 28-200 - $400 at retail. It's fast, accurate and sharp.
I recommend this lens all the time. There's many good Canon lenses out there of course but for an all around lens my favorite is the 28. Good Luck

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Canon Lens comparison?

ralph

Hi I wish to know how I can compare these two lenses to be used on a Canon 40D ^^ Which one is better , etc...

Canon EF 24105mmf4lisusm vs Canon EF2470mmf28LUSM

Thank you

Answer
The way you type the lens specification made my eye squint.

But between the two, definitely the 24-70 f2.8L - the f2.8 aperture will be extremely helpful.

It seems to me that you are trying to find an everyday walk around lens and fyi the best walk around lens for a Canon APS-C camera is the EF-S 17-55 f2.8 IS which produces even better image than any L lenses of similar range. The only issue found on the lens is the dust thing but I heard less and less about it everyday, especially if you're using a filter (besides, no lens are dust proof except they are weather proofed).

And yeah, prime lenses are non zoom lens. I think I have answered your question about that matter so you don't have to be confused about what the other poster said.

Canon Lens Comparison & Advice?

Jenna Alli

For those that are familiar, can you please provide me with a complete description/comparison between these two lenses:

Canon 28-105 USM 1:3.5-4.5 vs. Canon 28-135 IS USM 1:3.5-4.5

I understand that the 28-135 has image stabilizer, but is that really necessary? I have the 28-105 and want to know if this is good for everyday pictures and portraits? Should I trade it in for the 28-135?

Also I would like advice on a good telephoto lens for a Canon under $300....I had a Sigma 70-300 APO DG which I have been told is a good lens but it does not focus.

Answer
Specs for the Canon EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM are here: http://www.dpreview.com/products/canon/lenses/canon_28-105_3p5-4p5_ii

Specs and reviews for the Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM are here: http://www.dpreview.com/products/canon/lenses/canon_28-135_3p5-5p6_is

The IS buys you several stops of hand holding capability, vital for portraits at 135. It's a great buy.

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How do I clean out my phone's camera lens?

Ethan

My phone is a Blackberry Curve and any help would be appreciated

Answer
Go to a camera store and get some lens wipes

How to remove water/moisture inside the phone camera lens?

listmajeri

Hi, I have Nokia n95 8gb. I have left it in bathroom while I was in the shower and my lens is now foggy, with moisture/water from inside. WHAT TO DO??? Please help.

Answer
If you have a convection oven set the oven to low (up to 170 should be fine) and leave the phone in for an hour or two. It will dry up.

If you don't have a convection oven, turn the oven to low (without the phone in or it will get grilled). After the oven has heated up, turn it off and put the phone in. Several applications should dry up your phone.

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