Q.
Answer
If you are using a Nikon cropped sensor camera, the 12-24 mm is the best
If you are using a Canon cropped sensor camera, the 10-22 mm lens is best
You will also need a sturdy tripod and make sure that your cameras back is parallel to the walls so you do not get key-stoning
If you are using a Nikon cropped sensor camera, the 12-24 mm is the best
If you are using a Canon cropped sensor camera, the 10-22 mm lens is best
You will also need a sturdy tripod and make sure that your cameras back is parallel to the walls so you do not get key-stoning
What type of camera is recommended for taking photos of home interiors and exteriors?
Q. Want photos to be flattering. Some features I would like are: Faking incandescent lighting, neutralizing natural lighting from windows, ability to make room look large, removing shadows from objects/lamps, decor, etc.
Answer
Any camera will do, what is important is having a super wide angle lens. Architectural and Real Estate photographers use lenses like the 14 mm and 20 mm when using 35 mm SLR's or full frame dSLR for shooting interiors. 20 mm and 24 mm are more typical lenses for shooting exteriors.
Cameras do not "fake incandescent lighting" nor to they neutralize natural lighting from windows.
It seems that you are attempting to bypass using 85b and ND gels on windows to balance the outdoor light with the interior lighting when necessary or shooting at night to eliminate the extra costs and work.
The key is to always use the correct white balance for the the lighting you are using. For that a tool like X-Rite's ColourChecker Passport is important to use in every different lighting condition.
While a tool like Passport is important, it is not a substitute for shooting home and offices in situ and have them look "natural" to the viewer, it cannot substitute using time honored techniques used by architectural photographers for decades..
When shadows do exist in the scene, the old method of "painting with light" using an incandescent lamp to fill those shadows during long exposures is a time tested technique. This method is best used when using film, since digital cameras cannot take exposures longer than about 30 minutes and the results are not very pleasing. For long exposures (over about ten minutes) you may have to use film in any case.
Look for books by Julius Shulman, perhaps the most well known of all the architectural photographers
As you can see, shooting buildings and their interiors is not a Point and Shoot kind of assignment.
You may want to interview a professional architecural photographer and maybe shadow them on a shoot.
Take a look at the magazine "Architectural Digest" for ideas and to see if you can emulate what those photographers are doing then capturing the essence of the building or room in the magazine
Do I need to mention that you will need a good sturdy tripod, remote shutter release, incident light meter for getting readings throughout the scene to determine where light will be needed to reduce shadows and assure that the focal plane of the camera is parallel to the building to prevent "key-stoning"?
Any camera will do, what is important is having a super wide angle lens. Architectural and Real Estate photographers use lenses like the 14 mm and 20 mm when using 35 mm SLR's or full frame dSLR for shooting interiors. 20 mm and 24 mm are more typical lenses for shooting exteriors.
Cameras do not "fake incandescent lighting" nor to they neutralize natural lighting from windows.
It seems that you are attempting to bypass using 85b and ND gels on windows to balance the outdoor light with the interior lighting when necessary or shooting at night to eliminate the extra costs and work.
The key is to always use the correct white balance for the the lighting you are using. For that a tool like X-Rite's ColourChecker Passport is important to use in every different lighting condition.
While a tool like Passport is important, it is not a substitute for shooting home and offices in situ and have them look "natural" to the viewer, it cannot substitute using time honored techniques used by architectural photographers for decades..
When shadows do exist in the scene, the old method of "painting with light" using an incandescent lamp to fill those shadows during long exposures is a time tested technique. This method is best used when using film, since digital cameras cannot take exposures longer than about 30 minutes and the results are not very pleasing. For long exposures (over about ten minutes) you may have to use film in any case.
Look for books by Julius Shulman, perhaps the most well known of all the architectural photographers
As you can see, shooting buildings and their interiors is not a Point and Shoot kind of assignment.
You may want to interview a professional architecural photographer and maybe shadow them on a shoot.
Take a look at the magazine "Architectural Digest" for ideas and to see if you can emulate what those photographers are doing then capturing the essence of the building or room in the magazine
Do I need to mention that you will need a good sturdy tripod, remote shutter release, incident light meter for getting readings throughout the scene to determine where light will be needed to reduce shadows and assure that the focal plane of the camera is parallel to the building to prevent "key-stoning"?
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