What is the newest code of the 24-70mm and 24-107mm canon lens ?

good canon is lens image

votu

I want to buy a canon len 24-70mm and 24-105mm>what is the code len and which codes are the newest.Thank you,and please let me know ASAP.

Answer
There is no 24-107 mm, I think you meant 24-105 mm.

Anyway, that one is newer. What do you mean by coding? EOS lenses "talk" to the camera electronically.

Can I clean my Professional Canon lens myself?

dutchbaile

I have a 1500 dollar professional canon lens. It needs to be opened up and cleaned. Do I dare do it myself?

Answer
Can you perform a surgery (and we're not talking about removing a toe nail here) on someone if you're not a surgeon?

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Is a Sony a35 DSLR camera good for photography?

dslr camera lens cleaning kit image

zombieland

I want to get a new camera for photography, and this one sounded pretty good. Is it a good choice for taking pictures of people. I want the details to really stand out and for it to capture well.

Answer
Any of the entry level DSLRs would keep you happy for a few years. I'd pick either Canon or Nikon. I have a LOT of contact with other photographers and time and time again it seems that either one of those are most likely to make their owners happy. However, if you're determined to get a Sony, it will probably be fine, too.

The most important part is to buy only the best lenses - camera bodies get upgraded, lenses stay with us.
You WILL regret buying cheap lenses.
Don't rush into buying lenses. Start with a kit lens, get to know your camera, that lens, and all photographic principles.
Through time and through use, you will eventually KNOW what other lenses you'll need/want.
The more time you'll take, the less likely you are to regret your choices.

If you know anyone close to you with a camera, consider borrowing lenses and "picking their brain" about their camera and whatever else they know.

Go to a store and hold a few cameras, see how they feel to YOU.

Keep in mind that buying a DSLR isn't cheap, even if you find a good deal for body and kit lens.

You'll also want and/or need a few other things such as tripod, filters, a bag, sensor cleaning gear, a second battery, memory cards, perhaps a remote shutter release etc.

That's just the small stuff - I can guarantee you that you'll also want more and more lenses.
You'll also want a decent flash some day.

See how that list just goes on and on?
Owning a DSLR isn't cheap - at least not until you have built up a nice stash of gear.

Just some food for thought........

Do lots of research before you buy, and start learning about photography, too.
The very best thing you can do for your photography, is to attend a class and read a few books and tutorials. Having some knowledge will make a huge difference to your images.
I hope I have expressed this idea clearly enough: YOU need to learn about photography because even the world's best camera will take lousy shots in the hands of someone who has no clue how to use it.

It is completely up to YOUR skill for " the details to really stand out and for it to capture well"

What kind of camera should I look at buying?

Emma

Hi everyone, I'm getting quite a bit into photography and I'm really wanting to upgrade to a better quality camera. At the moment I just have a small digital camera by Canon, which does the job but I am a bit limited as to what I can do with it because it's a camera more for somebody who just wanted something to snap some shots for memory's sake. So anyway I wanted to know which is better - Nikon or Canon, and generally what kind of a camera would be versatile, good quality, reasonable price and suitable for a beginner.

Answer
I will choose Canon.
Canon EOS Rebel T4i Digital SLR Camera Kits. From Amazon http://tinyurl.com/c3ad8dx

Kit includes:
⦠1) Canon EOS Rebel T4i Digital SLR Camera Body & EF-S 18-55mm IS II Lens
⦠2) Canon EF 75-300mm III Zoom Lens
⦠3) Samyang 500mm f/8.0 Telephoto Lens (T Mount)
⦠4) Transcend 32GB SecureDigital Class 10 (SDHC) Card
⦠5) Spare LP-E8 Battery for Canon
⦠6) Vivitar 58mm UV Glass Filter
⦠7) Additional Vivitar 58mm UV Glass Filter
⦠8) Vivitar RC-6 Wireless Shutter Release Remote Control
⦠9) Rokinon M67 67" Pro Monopod
⦠10) PD DSLR Camera Backpack Case
⦠11) PD 2.5x Telephoto & .45x Wide-Angle Lenses
⦠12) PD EW-60C Lens Hood
⦠13) PD 6-Piece Camera & Lens Cleaning Kit
⦠14) PD Memory Card Storage Wallet
⦠15) LCD Monitor Screen Protectors

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What is the best Canon lens to use for portraits?

best canon lens portraits image

Meghan

I have heard a 50mm 1.2 lens is the best for engagements, seniors, newborns, and things like that, but i'm really not sure what to buy right now!
Opinions?!

Answer
Unless you have $1600 extra, the f/1.2 is kind of overkill. I prefer the 50mm f/1.4, 85mm f/1.8, and the 70-200 f/2.8L for doing portraits.

Here is the current Canon lens lineup http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/ef_lens_lineup

What lens should I purchase for portraits?

Ariel

I have a Canon Rebel T3i and I want a great lens for taking portraits, any ideas?

Answer
Pick your focal, they're all good for portrait.

24-70mm f/2,8L usm or 24-70mm f/2,8L usm II
50mm f/1,8 or f/1,4
85mm f/1,8 or f/1,2L
105mm f/2,8 usm or f/2,8L
135mm f/2L
70-200mm f/4L or f/4L IS or f/2,8L or f/2,8L IS II

For low budget:

Tamorn 28-75mm f/2,8

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What cheapish camcorder would you recomend for filming stunnning quality videos ?

best lens for blackmagic camera image

Andrew

Answer
If there was such a thing, the professionals would already be using them... because they are professionals, they don't like to spend money unless they have to and that translates into more money in their pocket not tied up purchasing equipment.

Since camcorders can range from low end consumer cams at about $50 to high end pro gear at $80,000 and more, and we assume you already have audio (mics, cables/wireless), lighting (on camera or on trees/trusses), steadying devices (tripod, vest system with articulated counterbalanced arm, camera crane, etc.) and know how to edit the video and use color correction and all the various tools that come with good editors - and a computer that can deal with high definition video editing effectively, we can focus on the camcorder or camera itself... and you have not provided enough information.

Any camcorder - provided there is enough light and it is used properly - can provide "stunning" video. Generally, no fast action, normal levels of audio and never used handheld. We assume the subject is the important parts - and the editing and the rendering is done well. As camcorders increase in price, lenses get bigger, imaging chips get bigger, video compression can go down and manual audio controls are used properly. At the lowest end of useful "cheapish" camcorders will be the prosumers. A little over $1,000 with a 58mm lens diameter and smallish imaging chip. Then the entry pro-grade with 67mm lens diameter or larger and larger imaging chip or 3-chip array in the $3,000 range. The Sony HDR-FX1000 and NEX-EA50UH are examples (I have both). At the low end, it is possible that a GoPro Hero action cam, or any of the consumer cams from Sony, Panasonic, Canon (I like the HF R400) could be useful.

A newish family of camcorders like the Canon EOS C100/C300/C500, Blackmagic Design Cinema Cam, Sony NEX-VG and NEX-EA series and Panasonic AG-AC100 and above are doing some cool work with skilled folks using them...

And we have not hit "expensive" yet... that would be Red or Silicon Imaging or the higher end Sony CineAlta or Panasonic Varicam gear among others.

All the above record to some sort of digital format - there is no "film" involved. If you need film, then use of a film camera (See Panavision and Arri - among others) is needed. Or something vintage from the 8mm film days (no audio capture).

Video editing software for speeding up videos and adding music?

Evie

Hi

Well the title pretty much says it all lol. I have been normally been using Windows Movie Maker but lately it has been very, VERY annoying. So I was wondering if there was any free software that will let me take a clip speed it up and put music to it?

Thanks. :)

Answer
The best software for you is SONY Vegas Pro 9.0 Build 563 it can do it all.

Here is the link for download :
http://www.softpedia.com/get/Multimedia/Video/Video-Editors/SONY-Vegas.shtml


SONY Vegas Pro description

Combines real-time SD, DV and HDV video editing with unrivaled audio tools to provide the ultimate all-in-one environment

Only Vegas software combines real-time SD, DV, and HDV video editing with unrivaled audio tools to provide the ultimate all-in-one environment for creative professionals - high-definition and high-fidelity.

With its unique, visual approach to digital video and audio production, Vegas will deliver tremendous power, incredible speed and maximum productivity in an efficient and uncomplicated platform.

Powerful video editing
Expertly edit complex long-form SD or HD projects using mouse or keyboard trimming along with powerful ripple editing modes. Video editing enhancements in Vegas 6 include A/V synchronization detect and repair, tape-style audio scrubbing, drag ripple and arrange, source project editing, and auto-frame quantization.

Multitrack video editing on unlimited tracks
There is no limit to the number of video and audio tracks you can use in a Vegas project - nothing to impede your creativity or stop you from reaching your fullest potential.

Resolution independent
Vegas software supports any Aspect Ratio (4:3, 16:9, etc.). Edit on 23.976, native 24, 25, 29.97 or 30 fps timelines. Use video in different sizes and frame-rates all on the same project or on the same track - no conversion is necessary. Render Vegas projects out to just about any resolution.

Powerful color correction and matching tools
Use 3-Wheel Primary and comprehensive Secondary Color Correction filters to adjust differences in video from different camera setups or lighting situations; enhance dull, washed out footage; or make specific color ranges stand out. All edits can instantly be analyzed on four scopes: Vectorscope, Waveform, Parade and Histogram. Changes are immediately viewable on an external monitor via i.LINK connector/IEEE-1394 devices.

Vectorscope, waveform, histogram, and parade video scopes
Accurately measure the color, black and whites of video, and locate illegal chroma and luma levels so you can fix them prior to output. View levels in real-time as they play back in the preview window or on an external monitor.

HDV Support
Capture from a wide variety of HDV devices. Includes support for 601/709 color spaces and the CineForm intermediate codec for high performance HDV editing. Superior frame rate conversion including 24p, and precision upconversion for HD-SDI mastering. Export your HDV projects to delivery formats including Windows Media 9 HD, Real Media, QuickTime, and the Sony YUV codec for HD-SDI output.

SD/HD-SDI Support
New support for Blackmagic Design DeckLink boards allows you to capture, edit, monitor, and print-to-tape using SDI (serial digital interface) and component SD and HD decks.

Professional video effects
Choose from over 190 customizable video effects including: Lens Flares, Light Rays, Film Effects, Chroma Key, Timecode Overlays, Color Gradients, Media Generators, Credit Rolls, Text Effects and more. Quickly recall frequently used effects chains with new configurable packages.

Customizable video transitions
Use over 175 2D and 3D real-time transitions, including Barndoor, Clock Wipe, Dissolves, Iris, Linear Wipes, Page Peels, Venetian Blinds, Zooms, 3D Fly In/Out, 3D Shuffle and more. All transitions are customizable and can be keyframed to change over the length of each fade or overlap.

Multiprocessor support
Vegas 6 takes advantage of cutting-edge parallel processing architectures, significantly reducing complex project-render times on multiprocessor, HT, and multicore systems.

Transition progress envelopes
Transition progress envelopes in Vegas 6 software provide full keyframeable control over all transition attributes across the length of an event overlap. Create customizable fades or reverse, hold and repeat individual transitions. Precise customization of transitions in Vegas software provides new levels of creative flexibility.

3D Track Motion
Create 3D motion effects with precise control over Z-depth, plane intersection, compositing and more. The Vegas 6 track grouping model allows multiple tracks to move and rotate in 3D space. 3D motion occurs in real-time and is instantly previewable via i.LINK connector/IEEE-1394 hardware to external monitor.

Enhanced Video Montoring
Next-generation monitoring tools allow full screen timeline playback to LCD and CRT secondary displays via component or DVI connections, with support for scaling, deinterlacing, and color profiles. Additionally, Vegas 6 supports timeline monitoring using DeckLink cards, at all supported resolutions.

Enhanced video compositing
The Vegas compositing model offers greater flexibility with multi-level composite group nesting, sep

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Is a Canon EOS Rebel XSi good for Concert Photography?

best canon lens xsi image

Jude

Is a Canon EOS Rebel XSi good for Concert Photography?
Can anyone tell me if the Canon EOS Rebel XSi is good for concert phototography? I'm not a pro photographer by any means, but I'd like to buy a camera that will produce some nice shots. Any additional tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Answer
Yes....I also own one. Be sure you have a 200-300mm lens and be sure that you are get close enough to the stage. Set the ISO setting to around 800-1600 for starters. Then take the photo when the stage lighting is shing on the subject. You have to do some practice shots and be sure to carefull support the camera and lens to avoid camera shake causing blur. Be sure that the shutter speed is set at about 1/250 or perhaps 1/125 and the aperature is wide open.

What lens would be better for outdoor portraits, 50mm or 85mm?

Brian

So I have a Canon Rebel XSI, and was looking at lenses, which would be better for outdoor portraits, the 50mm or the 85mm? Defiantly dont have a set budget Im also looking at bang for the buck value also... Thank you

Answer
I don't know whether you are a professional or amateur (sure, amateur, otherwise you'd know the choice). In fact, all the 50mm, 85mm etc are necessary for portrait photography. One is not sure when one would need which lenses. If amateur, I would suggest a 50mm because 85mm is counted as telephoto lenses. In portrait photo-taking it can distort the face or any big-close ups. 50mm has another extra facility that you can use that in normal cases.

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What lenses are good for the samsung nx1000 to take blurry background photos?

best canon lens for the money image

Sophia

I'm new to photography and just recently purchased a samsung nx1000. It comes with a 20-50mm f/3.5-5.6 lens. I've been wanting to take pictures of people where the background is blurred while the subject is in clear focus. I did a little research and people have told me that to obtain a blurred background, a low aperture range is ideal? My lens only goes to 3.5 so I've been looking for more accessories to test out. Aside from the Samsung lenses, what other lenses is compatible (with converter)? I've bought an canon eos lens converter but don't know which canon lenses will work with the nx. Sorry for the longwinded explanation! But your opinion is much appreciated. Thanks!

Answer
First, try to get your money back on the "converter" you bought. Actually, its properly known as an adapter and while it will allow you to use a Canon EF mount lens on your Samsung NX lens mount camera body you'll have no auto focus and only limited metering options.

Second, go here and learn about Depth of Field (DOF):
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-of-field.htm

DOF is defined as that area in front of and behind your subject that is in focus.

There are 3 factors that affect your DOF:

1) The focal length of the lens.
2) The aperture used.
3) The subject distance.

You can use the DOF Calculator at this site - http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html - to compute your DOF for any combination of the 3 factors imaginable. Here are a couple of examples:

50mm @ f5.6 focused on a subject at 5'-0'' DOF will be from 4'-8'' to 5'-5''. This means that anything from 0'-4'' in front of your subject (4'-8'' in front of your camera) to anything 0'-5'' behind your subject (5'-5'' in front of your camera) will be in focus. That is a reasonably shallow DOF.

50mm @ f16 focused on a subject at 5'-0'' DOF will be from 4'-3'' to 6'-2''. This means that anything from 0'-9'' in front of your subject (4'-3'' in front of your camera) to anything 1'-2'' behind your subject (6'-2'' in front of your camera) will be in focus.

In either example the background will be nicely out of focus as long as its a couple of feet behind your subject. You really don't need additional lenses although in my opinion the Samsung 60mm f2.8 Macro ED OIS SSA would be worth having.

So get your money back on that adapter and learn about DOF.

What is the best canon lens for Dirt Track racing?

Tegtmeier5

I have a 60D canon camera and a 18-135mm lens. I am stuck sitting in the bleachers since I don't have close up access. I have to take photos from either the corners or on the opposite side of the track because there is a fence between the bleachers and the track(of course. I didn't need to mention that but did anyway). I would like to be able to get close up shots and still have good quality. What lens would work best for this

The only thing that is keeping me from a really good lens is the price. I don't have a lot of money.

Also I want to blur out the background and keep the cars in the shot in focus. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to set the camera at? (ISO, shutter speed, and F-stop) I know it depends on the light, how fast the cars are going and other things, but I would like some ideas.

The hot laps start at 6:00pm and the races start about 6:30.

Any help will be much appreciated.

Answer
First of all, you just need to make sure that your shuter speed isset to at least 1/500th second. You will have to adjust your lens aperture and ISO to assure that..

As the sun goes down, you will need to set your white balance to match the lighting on the track.

I shoot a lot of motocross and use an 18-200 mm lens, but I am on the course. When I shoot from the sidelines, I use a 300 mm lens.

The best Canon that is not going to cost you over $6,000 is the EF 70-300 mm lens

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What specs. should a digital camera have to take decent photos of wildlife @ 100 yards away?

best camera lens for group portraits image

black_shee

I'm an amatuer at photography. I don't understand "digital zoom" or what the difference is in varying lens sizes like "18-55mm". I just want to be able to take decent photos of the deer at the back of my property....about 100 yards away....Could you recommend a camera or what lens, zoom, etc. a camera would need? Thanks in advance.

Answer
Digital zoom crops the image in the camera, resulting in lower resolution images.

18-55 mm is a medium wide angle to medium telephoto lens (good group shots to portraits) To shoot your deer, you would want an additional lens like the 55-200 mm lens.
A P&S camera (the ones that include "digital" zoom) have sensors that can be over 15 times smaller that a camera that comes with a 18-55 mm lens, a DSLR.

There are a number of camera companies that sell DSLR's in the $470 - $550 range that come with a good general lens and have many additional lenses available (even good used ones) that reach 200 mm (even longer if you want to spend the money)

Here is a list of some current ones and their ratings.

http://www.jdpower.com/electronics/ratings/digital-camera-ratings/dslr

You can look at their specs and reviews here:

http://www.dpreview.com

What is the best source or site that explains how to build a telescope with a camera?

Abeer s

I have plenty of time, so I decided to build a telescope. I want to attach a camera to it to take photos. Please tell me what is the best source or book or site to do this.
please help I really want this.

Answer
You can fit a camera to almost any telescope. If you use a standard 1 1/4" focuser you can get adapters of all sorts for fitting a camera to it directly.
They are also made for 2" focusers but are more expensive.
Put telescope ATM in the search box....ATM is Amateur Telescope Making. There are thousands of sites.
http://www.google.com/search?q=telescope+atm&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&client=firefox-a . . . . . .
A very good site is this one but look at lots and see what suits you for the sort of telescope you want.
http://www.atm-workshop.com/ . . . . . .
The spiritual home for ATM is Stellafane at Springfield in lovely Vermont.
It was started by the great Russell Porter, who began the big effort of making home made telescopes popular when he started his mirror grinding classes.
http://stellafane.org/ . . . . . .
There is no problem finding parts to build telescopes with. I've built nine decent ones and several more rushed-up jobs for quick events that have come up. Some people have built over a hundred telescopes, grinding and polishing the mirrors and making the tubes and mountings.
You can get focusers, diagonal mirrors and all the other bits very easily.
http://datscope.wikispaces.com/file/view/18_inch_F5_Dobsonian.jpg/52136033/18_inch_F5_Dobsonian.jpg . . . . .
This guy made five good telescopes.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://members.ziggo.nl/jhm.vangastel/Astronomy/30cmscope/30cm_bestanden/alle%2520vijf.jpg&imgrefurl=http://members.ziggo.nl/jhm.vangastel/Astronomy/30cmscope/5_30cm.htm&usg=__DzTxVL3S7AanlbcF4zpw_DHNHbs=&h=634&w=845&sz=186&hl=en&start=27&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=umxySrOV9M6OfM:&tbnh=109&tbnw=145&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dfive%2Bdobsonians%26start%3D20%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-GB:official%26ndsp%3D20%26tbs%3Disch:1 . . . . .
For refractors you can buy objective lenses and focusers and make the tubes fairly easily but it takes a bit of care to get it right.
Thousands of people make telescopes...it isn't so rare that you'll be in a lonesome land with no resources available.There are forums, Yahoo Groups, all sorts of info and help available.
Telescope making is not dying out, it is increasing. Ask the guys and girls at star parties.

A digital camera used with a telescope for taking pictures is called by the ugly sounding word digiscoping.
One way to do it is to get a filter thread adapter to fit a T2 mount, which you can find easily for standard 1 1/4 inch focusers, screw it onto the filter thread round the lens and put the adapter in the focusing tube like a normal eyepiece.
The camera then mounts directly onto the focusing tube with no worries about bits of complicated mounting adapters catching on things. It's exactly the same as having a huge telephoto lens mounted onto the camera. For mounting a heavy Nikon FM or an old-style brass-bodied Canon FTb,I use a body mount adapter straight onto the T2 adapter on the focusing tube.
All Newtonians and all normal telescopes are photo-telescopes. You can mount cameras easily on all of them.

If it's for a compact camera, what I did was to make a simple box from a scrap of thin ply with a grip to go over the outside of the focusing tube so I can use the camera with an eyepiece in place. It can be rotated easily for horizontal or vertical pictures (called landscape and portrait format in photography) because it just slides firmly over the focusing tube.
The box has some padding inside so the camera doesn't get scratched and it makes a nice firm fit.
It has to be measured up properly so the camera lens is central against the eyepiece but it's not a hard job. The back is cut out so the controls and screen are available and the top doesn't exist either, so it's more of a frame than a box. My first one was made from stiff card and worked fine for weeks till I made the wooden one.
I use it on 3-inch and 4-inch refractors and an 8-inch Maksutov for wildlife photography and occasionally on a Newtonian or the Maksutov for astro.
On a Newtonian the balance won't be affected greatly with the weight involved...4 -5 ounzes....I've got eyepieces heavier than that.. but if you want to fine tune the balance a simple solution is just to wrap something round the mirror end of the tube and fix it with string or a small bungee cord or sticky tape. Move it up and down till the balance is just right then fix it in place.
You can get balancing rods with a sliding weight for any telescope, or make one easily.
Just move the weight along a bar that's fixed to the the tube until the telescope is balanced and tighten the locking screw.
If there's a friction adjustment on the mount just increase it a bit and you'll probably find no re-balancing is necessary anyway.
A Dobsonian is OK for bright stuff like the Moon and even bright star clusters like the Pleiades or Jupiter at 80x. Take a dozen or more pics for planets and stars and stack them with Registax free software to improve the signal to noise ratio and contrast.
http://www.astronomie.be/registax/ . . . . . . .
I won a Philips Toucam Pro webcam in the raffle at Astrofest, which is the preferred webcam for astro pics. It does a good job when used with Registax.
For faint objects a motor-driven equatorial mount with manual override of the speed and a vibration-free slow motion control of declination are required for accurate guiding, using exposures of a minute or two up to over an hour.
It can be done with just manual slow motion controls but it's not fun and can be very tiring.
A separate guide scope is used, with a power a bit higher than that of the photographic scope to keep the guiding more accurate.
Otherwise you can buy an off-axis guider or an autoguider which can be expensive.

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I need a good point and shoot camera cleaning kit.?

best camera lens cleaning kit image

ZenTurkey

I have a Lumix DMC-ZS3 and a Canon Powershot SX110IS that I need a good cleaning kit for. Most of the kits I find look very cheap. I've heard bad kits can leave lint on the lens or scratch the lens so I wouldn't mind spending a little extra to get a decent one that will clean both of these.

Answer
My opinion, you don't need a "kit". All you do need is a high quality micro fiber lens cloth. You should never, ever apply any kind of liquid to a lens.

One thing I do is carry a large size women's make up brush in my bag. The brush is very soft and is excellent for quick dust offs during or after a shoot. My micro fiber I use for the screens and for the outer filter.

what NOT to clean your camera lens with?

alfredhitc

What are some things most people would think is good to clean thier camera lens with but isnt good?

Answer
First of all it's prudent to try to never have to clean your lens. I accept though that this is impossible with a P&S camera. However with an SLR you can buy a UV filter for the lens which will protect the lens for its entire life.

Secondly, when you do have to clean a lens, the first, most important thing to do is blow it clean with a blower brush. Simply setting about cleaning it with a cloth can cause all manner of problems. If there happens to be a little speck of sand or other abrasive material on the lens surface you could scratch the lens. Only after you blow it clean is it a good idea to start to use a cloth.

That said, I agree with Ben H in his recommendations. Methyl alcohol (available at most hardware stores) usually gets rid of most problems when a simple wipe of the micro fibre cloth doesn't work. Now don't coat the lens with the alcohol, if that stuff gets inside the lens it can also disolve some of the grease and cause the lens to jam. Instead place a drop or two in the middle of the lens and work outwards with your cloth in a circular motion.

His Windex comment is a bit unorthodox I'll admit and should be a "last resort" solution but it does work. I've not had a fungus problem so I can't comment if it works on fungus or not (though I suspect it does), however one problem I've had often comes from the seaside. I don't have a clue what the chemistry of the air is along the ocean but I've often found a real goo coating my UV filter. Trying to clean it dry doesn't work it simply smears things worse. Often alcohol also doesn't work, you're just smearing the goo around more.

In those situations I've found the Windex to work really well too. It seems to disolve that goo more thoroughly and leaves you with a lens in pristine condition once more. However, unlike my earlier advice, in this case you need a different technique.

First of all in this case you're trying to dissolve a coating of guck that accumulated from the air. A couple of drops isn't going to do that. I'd place several drops on the lens again making sure they stay in the middle and then I'd GENTLY work from the centre to the outside of the lens in a circular fashion. The stress is on Gently because you will have salt crystals mixed in with the goo that can scratch the lens. So what you're trying to do on the first pass is disolve them and get rid of them.

Keep in mind when you do this that you are also contaminating your cloth. If you use the same spot on the cloth in the next cleaning, you'll simply smear the goo back on the lens. So the second time you do this use a different part of the cloth or better yet, another cloth. Usually after three or four attempts the lens will come clean.

Once you've done that it's a good idea to thoroughly clean your cloth under warm running water to get rid of all the residue. Then hang it out to dry and when dry it's ready for the next time.

Another answer is to visit your local camera shop. Many still carry a lens cleaning fluid which usually works on lenses. The only problem is that this stuff is usually more expensive than the other solutions. On the positive side though if you bought a couple of those bottles, once they're empty you can use one for the alcohol and the other for the windex. This way you'll have these with you in your camera kit wherever you go.

I hope that helps a little.

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Why does macro photography need more light?

best canon ef lens for macro image

Mike

I notice it especially indoors. When I zoom in on something small with my macro lens (canon ef 100mm f/2.8 non USM) I absolutely need a tripod to avoid camera shake. Is this normal? Does the USM version of my lens allow more light in?

Answer
It isn't just the light (although, if you get so close that your camera and own head shadows the light, that too), but also it's a thing about depth of field. When you shoot macro, at 100mm, at f/2.8 and very close to the subject - all three of these things (long focal length, wide aperture, close to subject) shrink your depth of field to be paper thin.

Move your camera just a notch between focus being locked and shot is taken, and your subject falls out of focus. It's not a motion blur that you'd see, you'd be just missing focus, because you moved your camera, not when that shot was being taken (you probably know better to hold it well at that time), but between focusing and shooting!

You may somewhat help yourself by closing aperture tight (f/11, f/16 or so), so that you get a slightly better DOF, but then... well, then you really do need lots of light for shutter speed to be decent, or else you'll get the actual motion blur you were talking about!

So either way - a tripod is a good thing to have when doing macro work... Or hold your camera absolutely still for the whole process - focusing and taking a picture...

LEM.

Is this all i need to shoot bugs in deep macro detail?

Tha Syko C

I have a canon eos rebel xs

will this lense fit? ---> Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens for Canon SLR Cameras
Is this lens all I need to shoot macro of bugs and still life?
If I do need something else like tubes or a flash kit, what do I need?
Thanks in advance.

Answer
Great setup... I would also get a tripod and/or bean bag to stabilize your camera while you shoot so you can get a larger DoF. But I own and love that lens and it will work well with that camera.

I have used tubes with that lens, and while it gets you a little closer, it kills the working distance of the lens, which is one of its best features. Don't use tubes if you're shooting bugs; you end up needing to get too close to the bugs to focus correctly and they run away.

Good luck!

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What would be the best way to sell a nondigital 35mm Minolta camera with a zoom lens?

best camera zoom lens image

what about

Since everyone is buying digital cameras these days, what is the best way for me to sell my older 35mm Minolta camera with a zoom lens and some attachments? Who would be most interested in such a camera?

Answer
You'll get the most $$ on eBay.

If the lens is an off-brand (like Makinon) sell it with the camera as it's practically worthless.

If it's a Minolta lens sell it in a separate listing. Same with Minolta flashes and other name-brand items.

You can also try craigslist and kijiji but in my experience auction is less hassle and nets you more bucks.

Hope this helps and good luck.

My camera lens wont open or close how can i fix it?

Sammie

My camera fell and the camera zoom lens 4x wont open or close i have a powershot A560 digital camera. How could i fix it? Or if there is somewhere i could take it for it to be fixed

Answer
The best thing to do is call Canon at 1-800-OK-CANON (1-800-652-2666). You can send it in to them to get a repair estimate, but don't be surprised if it is $125+ to fix it.

When your camera isn't in a padded case, you need to be using the wrist strap properly.

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What lens is good for Canon Rebel XT when it comes to action photography?

best canon 24mm lens image

jd88

I am new to the advanced photography world, and I just purchased Canon Rebel XT because it seems to be a great entry level camera with good features. I am mostly interested in taking photos of dogs at dog park and events, etc. I want to be able to take clear photos of them running around. What are the lenses that would fit my criteria? I would like something on the cheaper side that does the job. Thanks a lot!

Answer
I'll give you some criteria used in choosing a lens, and then suggest a few that I would use for this purpose.

1. Zoom or prime
Zoom lenses are lenses that cover multiple focal lengths. Prime lenses cover a single focal length. Zooms should NOT be confused with telephotos (lenses for shooting far away things), as telephotos can be either zoom or prime. Zooms give you greater flexibility, but primes offer superior image quality at a given price point. Primes are also available in larger apertures (see below).

2. Focal length
Remember that your DSLR is a "crop" sensor DSLR. This means that your sensor is significantly smaller than 35mm film, and only uses the center of the image circle created by a standard lens. The simplified result of this "crop effect" is that you need to multiply the focal length on the lens by 1.6 to get the effective length on your camera. (No, the lens doesn't magically change, but the crop will make you move YOUR position, which will change the perspective rendered by the lens.)

The classic ranges for 35mm film are (give or take)
14-24mm = Ultra Wide Angle
24mm-35mm = Wide angle
40mm-70mm = Normal Perspective
70mm-135mm = Short Telephoto/Portrait
135mm-299mm = Telephoto
300mm + = Supertelephoto.

So take the lens's focal length and multiply by 1.6 to figure out how the lens will work on YOUR camera.

Note that EF-S lenses are lenses designed for your reduced image circle. This doesn't mean that you gain any optical benefits (quite the opposite in most cases), but some of these reduced-circle lenses represent great values, or at the wide end (EF-S 10-22) offer perspectives not available in full-frame lenses.

3. Maximum Aperture
When you see a number like f/2.8 or f/4-5.6 on the side of a lens, it tells you the maximum aperture that the lens is capable of achieving. Larger apertures give you a few capabilities. They allow you to shoot in lower light without flash (more light coming in = faster shutter speed). This is VITAL for sports photography, or any situation where the subject is apt to be moving. Larger apertures also allow you to shoot shallow depth-of-field shots, where the background and foreground are blurred to isolate the subject. A larger aperture lens can be stopped down for more depth-of-field or slower shutter, but a "slower" lens cannot be opened up. Larger apertures also offer faster auto-focus (with a few exceptions), as lenses slower than f/2.8 disable some of the AF sensors on your camera.

4. IS
Some Canon lenses offer IS. IS is a gyroscopic device that lives in the back of the lens and tries to correct for lens movement. This is extremely useful when you are shooting hand-held, but still can be useful on a tripod or monopod (although some older lenses require that you disable IS on a tripod). IS is great for shooting STATIC subjects in low light, as it will allow you to use a slower shutter speed than you would otherwise be able to. Some IS lenses offer "pan mode" which will stabilize the lens vertically, but allow you to pan the lens horizontally (think racecars with the background blurring as they move). IS is almost useless for most sports, as the key issue is not camera movement, but getting a shutter fast enough to stop the subject's motion.

5. Little red rings
The Canon "L" series of lenses is the "L"uxury lineup of optics, and they all have a little red ring around the front. In reality, this designation has more to do with being designed for professionals than for use as a luxury item. The L series lenses are *typically* of higher optical quality AND build quality than their consumer grade cousins. For zooms in particular, there are VERY few offering really strong quality in the consumer lineup (EF-S 10-22, EF-S 17-50IS, 70-300IS being the most notable exceptions).

6. Third party lenses
Tamron, Sigma, Tokina.... people take sides on the "are third party lenses ok" debate as vehement as their stances on major political issues. In my experience, some third party lenses offer an excellent value for the money. That said, ALL lenses have a certain variation in quality between copies of identical lenses. Test 3 copies of a Canon 50mm 1.4 in the store, and you will likely see a difference in performance. This tends to be even more pronounced in 3rd party lenses! So I recommend that you only consider purchasing a 3rd party lens from one of the three manufacturers I listed, and only if you can test it in store, or if the store has a fair return policy.

There ARE other concerns when buying a lens, but this should be more than enough to get you started.

That said... for your stated purpose:
You need a focal length where you can shoot at a bit of a distance... so telephoto is where its at here. If it were me, I'd be looking at the EF85mm f/1.8 or EF100mm f/2 primes for a value option with this purpose. If you feel you need more reach, the EF200 f.2.8L is superb and value priced at about $500. If you decide that you need a zoom, the least expensive telezooms I recommend are the EF70-200 f/4L or the 70-300 f/4-5.6 IS. The non-IS 70-300 is not very well built and offers a different (and much inferior) optical design from its IS brother.

what if i upgrade to a full frame camera?

Jarrah G

i am looking at buying a tamron 10-24mm lens that is designed for a APS-C camera. so my question is, if i eventually upgrade a full frame 35mm camera (eg the cannon eos 5d) can i still use it, or will it have extreme vignetting.
thanks

Answer
The Tamron 10-24 isn't the worlds greatest lens, and you have hit on the DSLR dilemma, throw your lot in with cropped sensor or plan for a full frame future?

I had a brilliant sigma 10-20 (EF mount but DC -not full frame) which I sold for a sigma 12-24 (EF mount DG, full or cropped sensor) in anticipation of getting a 5D2.
Then canon launched the (in many ways superior) 7D (which I bought)

So I've now sold the 12-24, putting the cash towards a tokina 11-16, which I will sell if I go full frame in 2 years time. Kinda wish I'd kept the 10-20.

With third party lenses, they use the EF mount not the EF-s lens mount, so they will mount on a 5D, and should operate normally apart from the vignetting.

With a zoom lens this will dissapear after a certain focal length anyway.

A canon UWA such as the 10-22 will not mount on a full frame, and even if the mount is removed and adjusted to fit full frame, the rear element can still rattle off the mirror.

Upshot, from my experience. Buy lenses for what you shoot on now. Avoid the tamron, its a pig (www.photozone.de canon APS-C reviews) there are enough APS-C users for a used value later.

Don;t buy a full frame lens (the only UWA is the 12-24 sigma which has filtering dilemmas and is slow, and only equivalent to 20mm on your cropped sensor canon.

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How to use the manual settings on canon rebel xti?

best lens canon xti rebel image

Wiener

i have a canon rebel xti and i wan't to learn on how to understand how to use all the settings on the camera. i tried reading the manual but it confuses me. i am planning on buying a book that covers all of this stuff but i'd like to know what aperture and F stops and all that stuff mean from u guys....thx
how can you get a nice bokeh for portraits

Answer
You might check at http://www.magiclanterndvdguides.com for an instructional DVD for your camera.

These books might help:

"How Digital Photography Works, Second Edition" by Ron White

"Hands-On Digital Photography" by George Schaub

There are 3 components to the "Exposure Triangle" : f-stop, ISO and shutter speed.

ISO is the measurement of the sensitivity to light of a light sensitive surface, either film or digital sensor. A low ISO (50, 100) is very insensitive and requires a lot of light. A high ISO (400, 800, 1600) is very very sensitive and requires less light. A low ISO produces the best image quality; a high ISO is needed in low-light, non-flash photography but does degrade the image.

The aperture (f-stop) is the opening made by the diaphragm inside the lens on your camera. A large opening (f1.7, f2) admits all the available light. A small opening (f11, f16) admits very little light. Regardless of the ISO chosen, the f-stop chosen controls the shutter speed and what's known as "Depth of Field" (DOF).

The shutter speed determines the length of time the light admitted by the f-stop chosen is allowed to expose our film or digital sensor, based on the ISO.

Let's look at some examples to see the ISO/f-stop/shutter speed relationship. These are based on the "Sunny 16 Rule" which states: "On a sunny day, set your aperture to f16 and your shutter speed to 1/ISO". * For our purposes we'll pretend our fastest shutter speed is 1/8000 sec. - which few cameras have the capability of achieving.

ISO 100
f16 @ 1/125 sec.
f11 @ 1/250 sec.
f8 @ 1/500 sec.
f5.6 @ 1/1000 sec.
f4 @ 1/2000 sec.
f2.8 @ 1/4000 sec.
f2 @ 1/8000 sec.

ISO 400
f16 @ 1/500 sec.
f11 @ 1/1000 sec.
f8 @ 1/2000 sec.
f5.6 @ 1/4000 sec.
f4 @ 1/8000 sec.

As we ''open up" from f16 to f11 we admit twice as much light and our shutter speed doubles since admitting more light requires less time (faster shutter speed) for the light to expose our light sensitive surface.

If you doubt the validity of the example, do this simple test:
Place your camera in Aperture Preferred Mode so you can select an f-stop and allow the camera to select the shutter speed. (Av on your camera). Set your ISO to 100. Now go outside on a sunny day. Set your f-stop to 16 and record the shutter speed selected by the camera. Do this for every f-stop.

The only difference you'll likely see from the chart I showed is this: The "Sunny 16 Rule" my chart is based on was developed when shutters were 100% mechanical. Today's modern electronically controlled shutters are essentially "stepless" and will come closer to actually matching the 1/ISO part of the "Rule".

Depth of Field (DOF) is controlled by the f-stop and the focal length of the lens. It is loosely defined as that area in acceptable focus in front of and behind your subject. You can find an excellent explanation on wikipedia. I'll just say that a wide-angle lens (18mm, 21mm) will give you maximum DOF at f16 while a telephoto lens (100mm, 200mm) will give you a shallow DOF at f16.

OK, I can't resist just 2 examples:

21mm lens @ f16, focused at 6' : DOF is from 2' 2'' to Infinity

200mm lens @ f16, focused at 8' : DOF is from 7' 9-3/4'' to 8' 2-3/8"

Its easy to see how shallow our DOF is with a 200mm lens: 4-5/8" (2-1/4" in front of and 2-3/8" behind our subject).

I realize this has been a long and somewhat complicated answer.

Good luck with this fascinating, frustrating thing called photography.

Can you use lenses from a Canon 35mm film camera on a digital canon rebel xti? Are they compatible?

caligirl

I have a couple of lenses from my Canon 35mm camera and have now purchased a new digital Canon rebel xti. Can I use the lenses from my old 35mm on a digital rebel xti?

Answer
It depends on what "35mm film camera" you have. If you have an old Canon FD-mount camera (which means Canon's manual focus cameras made before the 90s) you'll need an adapter:
http://search.ebay.com/canon-fd-to-ef_W0QQfsopZ32

If you have an EOS 35mm camera with EF-mount lenses then they should mount and work exactly like they're suppose to.

In any case, since the sensor of the XTi is smaller than a frame of film, there's a 1.6x crop factor that you have to take into account. A 28-80mm lens would be equivalent to a 44.8-128mm lens on the XTi.

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What camera should I buy? Also can someone explain the differences between Nikon and Canon?

dslr camera lenses explained image

Kathleen E

I am a photography student and I am looking for a good intermediate dslr camera. I am familiar with the Olympus E-PL1 and I have been shooting with the Pentax K-1000 for a year now. I am at that time in my studies were I am switching from film to digital and need a more professional camera. I am looking for a good overall camera that works well in most conditions. I would like to stay in the $1000 price range or lower. I have been looking at the Nikon D7000. Any thoughts?

Answer
Of course there are differences beyond ergonomics, Canon use old sensor technology, Nikon cripple their entry level DSLR cameras (doesn't apply to the D7000), both charge extra per lens for image stabilisation, Nikon charge extra for auto focus on their entry level models.

Why not the Pentax K5? All your Pentax lenses will work as designed, all will be image stabilised as it's built into the camera, it has functions not available on the Nikon, such as Tav mode where you set the aperture and shutter speed and the camera alters the ISO, multi frame up to 7 images in one frame both with and without exposure compensation, capture in focus is another function unique to Pentax and it uses the same sensor as the Nikon D7000, but the Pentax imaging engine gets slightly more out of it.

Compared here, I'm comparing them with a full frame Canon 5D Mk11

http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Cameras/Compare-Camera-Sensors/Compare-cameras-side-by-side/%28appareil1%29/676|0/%28brand%29/Pentax/%28appareil2%29/680|0/%28brand2%29/Nikon/%28appareil3%29/483|0/%28brand3%29/Canon

Chris

I will say that video is very much an afterthought with Pentax (not much better with Nikon - but some), but as a stills camera it can't be beat for low noise high ISO stills within it's price range, very nearly (and I really mean very nearly) as good as my Nikon D3s which is a full frame low pixel density camera specifically designed for low noise images in low light, at 4 times the price.

Chris

Whats the difference between these two cameras?

itsmebekah

Whats the difference between a cannon dslr camera (t3) and a cannon power shot digital camera? Other than the price? I am looking to get a cannon camera, but im a total newbie with cameras and i need your help.... All i know is one is $550 and one is $350... Thanks!

Answer
The DSLR has a lot larger sensor (over 10 times as large) and can capture more light. More light means better low light performance.

And just as important, the lens is immensely better on a DSLR. Not only in it's light gathering capability, but also its optical clarity, quality, and having fewer defects (all lenses do have some defects though).

And there are a lot of other highly advanced features in the typical DSLR that no compact camera has; full manual exposure capability, FIFO buffer (results in low shutter delay), a real shutter (electro-mechanical), phase-detect focusing, but to name a few. They are too numerous to mention - so go to a camera shop and have them explain the features.

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What is a good starter lens for the Canon 60D for videography purposes?

best canon 60d lens for film image

bob crane

I just bought the Canon 60D mostly for videography purposes. I am looking to purchase a lens with great wide angle and zoom capabilities. I understand I will have to eventually buy more than one, but I'm looking for one that is well rounded in both departments.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated!

Answer
EVERY person filming or taking pictures NEEDS a good PRIME lens such as a 50mm. A 50mm lens can be found for as little as $120 for a f/1.8, I personally would go for a f/1.4 which is about $200 more, there is really only two differences in the 1.8 and the 1.4; build quality and the F stop which is the aperture. I don't know if you know anything about aperture but the lower the F number the lower light you can shoot in (without cranking up ISO). I know you said you want a zoom lens, but at $120 for a 50mm I thought it would be a great addition to your lens collection allowing you to shoot in low light situations. Now a REALLY GOOD lens that is wide angle and zooms (a little bit) is the 17-40mm this is an L lens which stands for Luxury (and are denoted by the red ring on the barrel). The barrel of Canon L lenses are generally made from metal and the optics are superb. This lens isn't too expensive but it will run you a good $800 (these lenses are built like tanks, most are water-resistant, but I'd advise checking out your choice of L lens to see if you can have it out in a light rain). My advice to you is to search the website of your local camera store and look at the selection of lenses, this way you know your store either has the lens in stock, or you know they can get it in stock. Also, going to your local camera store and talking with someone who works there could be very beneficial, not only will they tell you a good lens for your needs, but you could learn some things on how to take AMAZING pictures and video.

What lens should I use to capture the reflection of a TV/Computer screen in an eye?

Q. I have a Canon 60D and need to film a series of reflections from TV and computer screens in an eye.
I have a 50mm prime lens (0.45m/1.5ft) and a 18-135mm macro lens (0.45m/1.5ft) but am willing to look at other lenses to get the best image.

I want the shot to include the entire eye (including eyelashes) but would also like to mix it up - more focus on the reflection in some shots and and more focus on the eye in others (I plan to film more than one eye).

All suggestions/recommendations on any other settings are also more that welcome.

Answer
any sharp lens should work... make sure it has good glass and is not a cheap lens. make sure there is lots of light and shoot in a somewhat wide aperture... you dont want to low of an aperture i would start with 5.6 and work your way up to 8 or so adjusting shutter as needed.. take a lot of photos and review them later on your pc... or tether your camera to the pc during the shoot. definetly want to be zoomed in try a zoom of around 70.

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Recommended lenses for Nikon DX body user that has no plan to go FX in the near future?

d7000 dslr camera with 18-200mm lens image

Joshua Jam

Hey guys, just need your help.

My dream lenses our Nikon 24-70 f/2.8 and Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 VRII. I currently use a Nikon D7000. So here's the catch. I don't plan to change to FX in the near future because I will need that extra boost on the DX sensor. yes I know you could now change FX cameras to DX formats with a few clicks on the menus. But seriously, please recommend some lenses that are good for me, a Nikon DX user.


PS - you might be wondering why I'm still asking this question, because I have just stated to great lenses. Well, read this fact. I said in the near future (around 5-10 years), I won't be buying any FX bodies, just DX bodies. So, the 24-70 is practically useless, and i'd rather buy the Nikon 17-55 f/2.8. So the Nikon 17-55 f/2.8 is one example great for my DX body.

PS again - Yes, I know that the lens I need depends on what I shoot. Well, I'm an events (includes debuts, weddings, birthdays, club parties, and all other events) photographer.

Cheers!

Answer
It matters not if you use DX or FX lenses on your D7000. In reality the only difference is the FX lenses are a bit heavier and larger.

Iit is generally agreed that the center of any lens is the "sweet spot", and in DX, you will only be using that part of the lens. You might actually find that the FX lens performs better on a DX body.

Essentially, a DX lens is just "mechanically cropped". If you could visualize putting a FX lens on a lathe and turning it down to DX size, you would have a DX lens.

It matters not if you have either a DX or FX lens when it comes to your DSLR. Both a FX 35mm lens and a DX 35mm lens will appear like a 52mm lens on a cropped camera.

The real issue with FX vs. DX lenses is at the wide angle end. While DX cropping is an advantage at the telephoto end, DX takes away what it gives at the wide angle end. For this reason, you have to buy wider angle lenses for DX use.

I have a D90, and I may or may not make the jump to FX. Other than my DX superwide lens (Tokina 11-16mm) and DX Fisheye (Nikon 10.5mm) - which have to be DX, I favor buying FX lenses.

First, you cannot buy a high performance DX version of the Nikon AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8. But then, it would be money wasted if you desired to ever jump to FX. And the 70-200 works perfectly fine on a DX camera, and in fact, may even work better (due to the sweet spot as discussed above).

So whenever I can, I buy FX lenses for my D90.

Which lens you buy is up to your needs, but all I can tell you is what I own:

Nikon AF 10.5mm DX f/2.8 fisheye
Tokina 11-16mm DX f/2.8 superwide angle
Nikon AF-S 18-200mm f/3.5~5.6
Nikon AF-S 40mm f/2.8 micro
Nikon AF 50mm f/1.8
Nikon AF-S 70-300mm f/4.5~5.6
Nikon AF 80-200mm f/2.8
Tokina 80-400mm f/4.5~5.6
Tokina 100mm f/2.8 macro

Each lens I own is for a specific purpose:

- The fisheye is just for, well fun.

- The Tokina 11-16mm is for landscapes, interior of buildings (like the f/2.8), etc.

- The Nikon 18-200mm is my vacation lens. Like all superzooms it does have some optical issues, but at f/8 those issues go away. So ffor vacation, I am willing to trade convenience of only needing one lens vs the limitation that it is a daylight only (f/8) lens. When on vacation, I typically take the Tokina 11-16 and this lens. I like to travel light, and don't want to carry 9 lenses.

- Nikon 40mm micro. I use this as my macro lens for everything but bugs. The DoF is a lot more favorable at this focal length, and I can usually use it hand-held, with auto-focus, and don't need a flash.

- Nikon 50mm is my "normal" and low-light lens. If I am not travelling, I take my Tokina 11-16, this 50mm, and one of my telephoto lenses. I have learned to zoom-with-my-feet with the 50mm to provide coverage from the tokina's 16mm to my telephoto's beginning.

- Nikon 70-300mm. This is my go-to lens for everyday telephoto use. And I have a Nikon V1, with a FT-1 adapter. That allows me to attach this lens and I end up with an equivalent 189~810mm telephoto due to the Nikon 1's 2.7x crop factor. This is my birding setup. So this lens gets double-duty for use with both my D90 DSLR and Nikon V1.

- Nikon 80-200mm. This is my sports lens. Whenever I want to photograph a sports event, this is my go-to lens. And I use it for portraiture. I have been a convert to using telephoto lenses for portraiture. At f/2.8 @ 200mm, bokeh is outstanding. But it is rather heavy, so it stays home if I don't need it.

- Tokina 80-400mm. This is my long reach telephoto. I use it when I need the most reach, and while it will also work on my Nikon V1, it will only work in manual focus (it is a AF type lens rather than AF-S). But on a tripod, manual focusing the moon works out OK, and on the Nikon V1, it comes in at over 1,000mm effective focal length.

- Tokina 100mm macro. This is my "bug" macro setup, since I can stay back a bit. However, with wafer-thin DoF, I need to shoot at f/22 or less (the lens will go to f/64). This means I also have to use my Nikon R1 macro flash system - even in daylight, and usually a tripod. Since this is rather cumbersome, I only use it for bugs.

Anyway, these are the lenses I use and the reason for each one. My recommendation is to figure out what kinds of photography you wish to do, and buy lenses accordingly. Don't rule out buying FX lenses, even if you never have the need to jump to a FX body. You can use FX lenses on your camera without any issues.

what kind of lens do i need?

Me_Myself_

I am getting a Nikon D70 tomorrow (body only) What would be the first lens i should buy for it? Thanks!

Answer
My D70 came with a 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5, which was better I think than the 18-105mm f/3.5~5.6 that is now kitted with the D90 and D7000.

It really depends on your needs.

Is this your first (of many) DSLR, and are you looking to build a system?

Do you want this to be a one-lens camera and not have to change lenses out.

If the former, start out with a 35mm f/1.8 or 50mm f/1,8, as this will form the anchor for your remaining lenses. It is not necessary to cover every millimeter with a zoom, and with this lens, you can eventually add a super-wide angle, such as a 11-16mm f/2.8, and a good zoom, such as a 70-200 f/2.8 or 80-200 f/2.8.

Those lenses will be high performin, and perhaps a bit overkill for the D70, but with the realization that you will replace the D70 at some point, you will have a killer system.

If all you are looking for is a single main lens, then a 18-105mm or 18-200mm is what you will want.

So the zoom lens gives you flexibility now, the prime gives you flexibility later (but you could always do both).

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Can you put a filter or different lens on a dslr camera?

lens in dslr camera image

Q. I have a nikon p500 dslr camera. and I was wondering if i could put lenses on it such as a fish eye lens? Sorry I'm new at this.

Answer
Well, the P500 is not a DSLR; its a P&S. You can not changes lenses on the P500. It might have a thread on the front of the lens that you can add filters to - You can't put a real fish-eye on the P500, just a cheap junk filter that tries to act as a lens.

What is the best dslr camera for an all around photography?

Kiel D

Hi, I just wanted to know, what are your suggestions, in the best dslr camera (any brand) considering the price, performance, and it's specialty. I'm currently using a Fujifilm Finepix S9500. It's my first dslr, and it's quite slow, and it has a fixed lens. I'm planning on looking for a better dslr. I use the camera for our church. Covering events like, sermons, parties, seminars, fellowships, concerts, and baptismal.
So, I need a camera that's quick, adjustable to present conditions, and can produce high-quality images even in harsh lighting conditions.
I'm looking for a camera that is good will a the events above. And I'm really praying for a better one.
Any suggestions?

Answer
"What is the best dslr camera for an all around photography?"

Whatever you can afford. New kits start around $600, while some decent used ones might be found for half that with luck.

"So, I need a camera that's quick, adjustable to present conditions, and can produce high-quality images even in harsh lighting conditions."

*No* camera does that. Screw anyone that tells you otherwise.

DSLRs require quite a bit of attention by the shooter. There is a point where shooting conditions get so bad that you have to improve them yourself or forsake the shotâeven the top-tier DSLRs can't do all of the work. Only experience can tell you when you need to add flash, have someone hold a bounce card by the door, bracket for exposure and spend some time in Photoshop, or try the shot tomorrow when lighting is better.

Church photography? Splurge on a good pan/tilt flash head and a decent wide aperture lens. Maybe even consider installing brighter indoor lighting. These will have much more effect on your images than the camera body.

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How do I record videos using the camera on my laptop?

best camera lens for video image

Crosswalk7

I don't have a webcam device, but I can see I have a small camera lens at the top of my PC and I want to use it to record videos of myself talking. Is there a way for me to do that? Do I have to download some type of software? I have Windows 7, by the way (if that helps).

Answer
Hello, Many users have problems with web cams. Press the designated button to turn on your camera. If you are using an external camera, use a compatible USB cable to connect the camera to the USB port of your computer.

Visit a website that allows you to test your webcam online. An example of a site you can use include http://www.ehow.com/how_8443971_test-webcam-online.html
Next try this.
Click the "Allow" button from the flash player settings window. You should now see live video footage from your web camera. If you don't see live video, your web camera is not working properly.
To reinstall the drivers try this. Right click on My Computer-> Properties -> Device manager -> Imaging Devices -? Webcam. Right click on the webcam and uninstall it. This will cause the computer to reinstall the drivers and software. Restart the computer and hopefully your problem will be fixed.
Here are a list of sites that will help
.
http://download.cnet.com/windows/webcam-software/ This is free software.

http://webcamfpstest.weebly.com/

http://mailvu.com/blog/technical-assistance-for-common-webcam-troubles/

Here is a site with a very good video, it is by Dell the information is so good you should watch it, it will help you understand http://youtu.be/y0yvmJvWgKI


Hey, I enjoyed your question, I have worked as a technician most of my life, I hope I have helped you...

CompTIA A+ Certified Computer Professional

How can I make a small lens and have it record video?

ngrant26

So, I get bored often and I thought I would try something new. I wondered how cool it would be to put a little camera lens on to my dogs collar and record video to my computer. However, I don't know how to do this. Does anyone know how to make something like this? I can't put a camera on his head because he hates having stuff on his head. If I have to make one, can someone post a link to a tutorial for this? Thanks

Answer
They already make dog collar cameras.

Google dog collar cameras.

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what kind of camera can use old SLR camera lenses?

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Bridget

I need to find a digital camera that can use older SLR camera lenses. What kind of mounting system would it need to have?

Answer
Just get the same brand (or mount) of camera the lens is made for. So if the lens is for Pentax, get a Pentax dSLR. If the lens has a Nikon mount, get a Nikon dSLR. The same is true for Canon. For Konica-Minolta lenses, you can get a new Sony dSLR. Most other manufacturers have dropped their old mounts in favor of the 4/3 mount but you may still use them with an appropriate adapter.

Going back to Pentax lenses, as long as it is a K-mount, you can use it on the new dSLR immediately in aperture priority and manual modes. Pentax has changed its mount only once and the older screw (M42) mount will only need a cheap adapter to work on the new dSLRs (also at aperture priority and manual modes). If you happen to have medium format Pentax lenses, you can still use them on your new dSLR, again with the correct adapter.

As for Nikon and Canon, you have to be very careful on what you mount where. Although some will mount without problems, they may not function properly. Some Nikon AF lenses won't autofocus on the newer dSLRs. With some lenses, metering won't work so your only choice would be full manual. Search the internet for lens compatibility charts to be clear on this further.

At any rate, there are many adapters that enable cross-brand mounting. Finally, there are very cheap adapters to mount universal screw mount (M42) lenses on almost any brand of dSLR on the market today. Of course you will lose most if not all automatic functions.

Do camera lenses only work with certain cameras?

Luis

I keep on seeing camera's say that they are compatible with "this line of lenses" or things like that. But i have an old 35mm non-digital camera and I have tons of different brands of lenses! So i was wondering if the camera's now only work with the same brand lens, for instance Canon with Canon lenses or Nikon with Nikon lenses, etc.

Answer
No, there are still third party lens makers out there. SIgma, Tamron, and Tokina all make lenses for multiple mounts.

Even the lenses you have were not necessarily made by the company named on the lens... Sears is an example of a company that didn't actually make lenses, they paid companies like Cosina to make them and put the Sears name on them. That still goes on as well.

Depending on the lens mount of your gear, it may be possible to use it directly on a modern DSLR, or it may require an adapter to do so. If you can use it directly (Pentax K or Nikon F) then all you need is a camera. If your lenses use any other mount, like Canon FD or any maker that no longer exists (Konika for instance) then you are better off just getting new stuff. Sucks to buy all new gear when you have perfectly good old gear, but that's the breaks.

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