canon 1v zoom lens?

chupacobra

can anyone recomend a zoom lens for my eos 1v......................................since its a pro camera it seems like the only thing that is recomended are L mount lenses.$$$....
it doesnt have to be a canon lens. vivitar, sigma, etc. but a zoom lens.

Answer
There's no rule saying that you have to buy an L lens for a pro camera. It's just highly recommented as the quality of the lens matches the capability of your pro range camera body.

To cover a wider range, you can try canon EF 28-135 IS, sigma 18-200, tamron 18-250 or other similar zoom lenses that would meet your needs. There are many to choose from depending on your needs (e.g Wide angle, mid-zooms, tele zooms).

However, do check that the newer models of 3rd party lenses (non-canon) are compatible with your 35mm 1v as some lenses are made just for digital bodies.

Which Canon DSLR camera zoom lens should I get?

livin life

I am looking into getting a zoom lens for my Canon Rebel T3, and right now I only have the lens it came with and am wanting to get a zoom lens but am not sure which to get. I am needing on that isn't too crazy expensive. I guess $800 at the most. I am just wanting some recommendations on which lens you would recommend. thanks :)

Answer
The EF-S 55-250mm lens is pretty much designed to go with your kit lens that came with the camera. It's a great starter telephoto lens (big zoom lens, it will let you see things that are quite far away). It's cheap, it won't cost you much and the build quality will resemble that of your current lens.

I don't think you need an L series lens, I think you'll find the size and weight of it too much to handle, even though the 70-200mm F/4L is one of the smallest L series lenses. I would recommend the 55-250.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/543923-USA/Canon_2044B002AA_EF_S_55_250mm_f_4_5_6_IS.html

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Any suggestions on 35mm SLR cameras for beginners?

Kate

My daughter is in art/photography 101 and needs a 35mm SLR. What brands or models would you recommend? Is a used camera worth it vs brand new?
Thanks for all the education! I ended up buying a used Canon EOS and kit with 3 decent lenses for her pod, and tripod for $250. So that should start her with SLR's I have already invested in several digital cameras for her. I'll buy new once this camera body wears out. Thanks again so many good answers I can't choose. Thanks to you all and let's put it up to a vote!

Answer
A used camera leaves you with a budget for lenses. In that area, I'd suggest Nikon or Canon, as they have the largest support systems and lens selections, including 3rd party lens makers.

If she's looking at film 35mm SLR's, I'd look for the Nikon FM series as it's a solid all-metal manual metering, manual focus camera. The current version is the FM-10 and it sells for under $250 with lens. The N-series camera are of lighter build, but have full automatic options.

If she's looking at digital, I'd look at a used D70 or D50. I have two D70's myself and just recently bought a D50. These two models are well constructed and will work with Nikon lenses, both current digital and film versions.

One more piece of information for you to read.
http://www.jdpower.com/electronics/ratings/digital_camera/dslr

I hope you find this helpful. Feel free to ask, if you have any other questions.

advice from a camera guru about older models?

Maizie

So right now I have a Digital SLR.

I was wanting to buy a few older cameras, just to experiment with ya know?

Do you have any recommendations, or any places where I can look for them? Any advice or opinions would be great!
The camera I have currently is a canon

I'm looking more for a camera that requires film. I'm not really looking for outstanding quality, more of something to do personally . I have no clue what type of a price range these cameras would cost. Probably nothing over 100?? I kind of want that retro feel to it:)
I tagged some photos so you can get a idea of what I'm looking for. Is my price range unreasonable? If so what can i look for at that price.


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3005/2714448873_c05e7f70f9.jpg


http://www.flickr.com/photos/parcelpacker/2553978960/

Answer
Hi Maizie,

There are a few important pieces of information that are missing from your question ~

1) Do you want a film camera or an older digital camera?
2) Do you wish to have compatibility between lenses for your DSLR and any other camera you get?
3) What kind of budget do you have?
4) What is your objective in experimenting? (Understanding mechanics, seeing the difference between types of cameras, having an alternative to a digital image, etc.)

If you add details to your question I will stop back and add to my answer with specific suggestions.

EDIT: Of the two cameras you have indicated the most significant difference is that the Minolta SRT are older models that are completely mechanical (except for the light meter) while the Canon A1 has an electronic shutter linked to the meter. I could not find an A1 model in your price range but a predecessor model the Canon Ftb is similar to A1 but without the electronic shutter. It was a model designed to be a direct competitor with the Minolta SRT 101 & 102 models.

Here are links to a reliable on line used camera dealer's current listings of Canon & Minolta cameras in your price range, this company maintains an extensive repair facility and is one of the largest used camera dealers in the world:

Canon:
http://www.keh.com/camera/Canon-Manual-Focus-Camera-Bodies/1/sku-CA020000252500?r=FE#
http://www.keh.com/camera/Canon-Manual-Focus-Fixed-Focal-Length-Lenses/1/sku-CA060104001970?r=FE

Minolta:
http://www.keh.com/camera/Minolta-Manual-Focus-Camera-Bodies/1/sku-MI02999091677E?r=FE
http://www.keh.com/camera/Minolta-Manual-Focus-Fixed-Focal-Length-Lenses/1/sku-MI060105000190?r=FE

Two advantage of mechanical cameras such as these are -
One: They can be repaired fairly easily and there are many old ones around for repair services to scavenge parts from. Electronic parts are much more difficult to replace.

Two: If their light meters fail you can operate the cameras easily without batteries of any kind, using a hand held light meter. (Or use your digital camera to take test exposures).

One caveat with these cameras is that both used a 1.35 volt mercury cell to power their light meters. These cells have been banned in most of the world because of environmental concerns about the mercury content. There are a number of alternatives for dealing with that issue but that would take another whole answer. See this Q&A for more details ~

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=AsvFtZqbwB0Rxs9WYI7gEwLty6IX;_ylv=3?qid=20100722065703AAKlXbl

P.S. My first SLR camera was a Minolta SRT-101. The one in your picture is an SRT-101 model 1b a slightly revised model with an improved film take up mechanism easily identified because they control knob on the top of the camera to the left of the word minolta is black plastic on the earlier models and knurled silver on the model pictured.

Hope that helps. You can email me at the link on my profile if you need more help.

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Are Vivitar tripods any good for serious photographers? + What other gifts are ideal for photographers?

Arun

Answer
Most photographic equipment is personal preference.

If you want a tripod for a small $100 P&S (point & shoot) camera, then Vivitar/ Sunpak/ Weng Dong (or other chinese sounding name) would be okay. For a SLR or DSLR camera,then get a trusted brand...Manfrotto/Bogen,Vanguard, Slik, Gitzo, etc

As far as other ideas...
1) Gift cards to a local camera shop (not bestbuy/walmart)
2) Gift card to B&H Photo... http://www.bhphotovideo.com/find/giftCard.jsp
3) A camera lens coffee mug... http://www.canonmugs.com/

Shops in Tucson AZ? Safe to buy lens online?

Antonio88

Im going to buy a lens for the first time, for my dslr. Its going to be $700 and I was thinking it might not be safe. I have bought things from Amazon but only inexpensive things. Once a coffee mug got lost during the delivery and Amazon agreed to replace it, even though its reports said it had been delivered.

Anyways, anywhere I can buy camera lenses in Tucson? I dont live there, but its the closes city. If I dont find shops I might order it from Best Buy but I would like to find a camera only store that has lots of lenses available for pick up...

Answer
Most people make their camera equipment purchases from either B&H Photo or Adorama. I have been doing business with them since I was 18 now am age 71. No problems. With Amazon although I have had absolutely no problems you are in effect dealing with two companies instead of one.

www.bhphotovideo.com 1-800-854-5575

www.adorama.com 1-800-223-2500

Good Luck!

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LOOKING FOR NEW VIDEO CAMERA?!? HELP!?

Gage

I'm looking for a new video camera to make movies with. I have a YouTube account which is where I post most of my movies. I want to upgrade now that I have gotten more into filmmaking.

Right now I have $650 saved up for a new camera but my budget is $650-$1000 at the most.

I want a camera that has really good picture quality, is good in lower light, has good sound quality, and isn't super difficult to use!

Please help me out!

Answer
HD Camcorders and DSLR Cameras interpolate the video, which means of every 25 frames of video, 4 or 5 frames are taken by the lens assembly; the other frames in between these are filled in by the camcorder inner circuitry, thus giving you not true video. It looks like this -one frame from the lens assembly, 7or 8 from the electronic circuitry, one frame from the lens assembly, 7or 8 from the electronic circuitry, one frame from the lens assembly, 7or 8 from the electronic circuitry, one frame from the lens assembly, 7or 8 from the electronic circuitry, from front to back of the video. Near impossible to edit, even when you have the Multi port processor computer with the big 1GB Graphics card and a Sound card that is required to edit, view, watch and work with the files these camcorders produce.

DSLR Cameras, all Makes, all Models, all have the same problem when video taping some long videos, all overheat at the 13 to 18 minute mark, depending on the Make and Model. This is unavoidable, it all has to with the fact, video is an afterthought in DSLR camera production.

Consumer Level HD Camcorders and DSLR Cameras have 4 problems. 1) Blurry, fuzzy, out of focus areas closely around people in videos taken by consumer level HD camcorders. 2) Any movement, even a wave or lifting an arm, while in front of a recording Consumer Level HD Camcorder and DSLR Cameras, results in screen ghosts and artifacts being left on the video track, following the movement. Makes for bad video, sports videos are unwatchable. 3) These Consumer Level HD Camcorders and DSLR Cameras all have a habit of the transferred to computer files are something you need to convert, thus losing your HD quality, to work with your editing software. 4) Mandatory maximum record times - 1 hour, 30 minutes, 8 minutes, 3 minutes â four different times advertised as maximum record time for some Consumer Level HD Camcorders and DSLR Cameras. No event I have ever been to is that short. Either take multiple camcorders and DSLR Cameras or pack up with out getting the end of the event on video.

MiniDV is currently the most popular format for consumer digital camcorders. MiniDV camcorders are typically more affordable than their HDD and DVD counterparts. Each MiniDV tape will typically hold an hour of footage at normal recording speed and quality. MiniDV tapes are available for purchase at not only electronic and camera stores, but also at drugs stores and grocery stores, making them easy to find while your on vacation. There are literally hundreds of MiniDV camcorders available; both in standard and high-definition. And add the fact that to get a HD camcorder that could produce better video quality footage, one would have to spend in excess of $3500 for that camcorder that could produce higher quality video

http://simplevideoediting.com/learn/part1_camcorder_choices.htm

http://simplevideoediting.com/learn/part2_connect_camcorder.htm

http://usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/camcorders/consumer_camcorders/vixia_hv40#Overview

Want to know about Video Camera?

Gaurav

Hi,

I want to know about Video camera... First of all am very sorry for my english grammer , so plz ..

Well i want to know about alternative of Panasonic MD 9 Video camera. which is not available new in india, It is in DVC..

Am from the small city of india.. and md 9 is perfect for my city or nearest parties and functions. it was available in little amount of money. but its not available now..

Mr budget is too low, so give me some idea or model name of which is good for me now in Sony.. I mean to say that , its perfectly attent the weddings and all important functions like panasonic md9... Which is the lowest price camera of Sony like Md 9?.. plz give me the price and model no. of it..

Thank you and sorry again..

Answer
HD Camcorders and DSLR Cameras interpolate the video, which means of every 25 frames of video, 4 or 5 frames are taken by the lens assembly; the other frames in between these are filled in by the camcorder inner circuitry, thus giving you not true video. It looks like this -one frame from the lens assembly, 7or 8 from the electronic circuitry, one frame from the lens assembly, 7or 8 from the electronic circuitry, one frame from the lens assembly, 7or 8 from the electronic circuitry, one frame from the lens assembly, 7or 8 from the electronic circuitry, from front to back of the video. Near impossible to edit, even when you have the Multi port processor computer with the big 1GB Graphics card and a Sound card that is required to edit, view, watch and work with the files these camcorders produce.

DSLR Cameras, all Makes, all Models, all have the same problem when video taping some long videos, all overheat at the 13 to 18 minute mark, depending on the Make and Model. This is unavoidable, it all has to with the fact, video is an afterthought in DSLR camera production.

Consumer Level HD Camcorders and DSLR Cameras have 4 problems. 1) Blurry, fuzzy, out of focus areas closely around people in videos taken by consumer level HD camcorders. 2) Any movement, even a wave or lifting an arm, while in front of a recording Consumer Level HD Camcorder and DSLR Cameras, results in screen ghosts and artifacts being left on the video track, following the movement. Makes for bad video, sports videos are unwatchable. 3) These Consumer Level HD Camcorders and DSLR Cameras all have a habit of the transferred to computer files are something you need to convert, thus losing your HD quality, to work with your editing software. 4) Mandatory maximum record times - 1 hour, 30 minutes, 8 minutes, 3 minutes â four different times advertised as maximum record time for some Consumer Level HD Camcorders and DSLR Cameras. No event I have ever been to is that short. Either take multiple camcorders and DSLR Cameras or pack up with out getting the end of the event on video.

MiniDV is currently the most popular format for consumer digital camcorders. MiniDV camcorders are typically more affordable than their HDD and DVD counterparts. Each MiniDV tape will typically hold an hour of footage at normal recording speed and quality. MiniDV tapes are available for purchase at not only electronic and camera stores, but also at drugs stores and grocery stores, making them easy to find while your on vacation. There are literally hundreds of MiniDV camcorders available; both in standard and high-definition. And add the fact that to get a HD camcorder that could produce better video quality footage, one would have to spend in excess of $3500 for that camcorder that could produce higher quality video

http://simplevideoediting.com/learn/part1_camcorder_choices.htm

http://simplevideoediting.com/learn/part2_connect_camcorder.htm

http://usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/camcorders/consumer_camcorders/vixia_hv40#Overview

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What DSLR camera would you recommend me to buy?

MiZz RuBy

I need a new camera but am lost on which one to get!
I have my eye on Nikon D3100 or Canon 550D- any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance!

Answer
My other suggestion would be to look at the Sony SLT A55. This DSLR has Sony's Translucent Mirror Technology which allows for full-time continuous auto focus whether you're shooting still pictures or 1080/60i HD video. No other DSLR allows this. The technology also allows shooting at 10fps (frames per second) which is the fastest in its price range.The Sony SLT A55 also gives you 2D or 3D Sweep Panorama in the camera as well as HDR in the camera. It also has built-in GPS.

Here are some reviews:

http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/AA55/AA55A.HTM

http://www.digitalphotographywriter.com/2010/08/sony-slt-a55-review-translucent-mirror.html

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/sony-a55-preview.shtml

Current prices at B&H - http://www.bhphotovideo.com

Nikon D3100 w/18-55mm zoom, $649.95 after a $50.00 Instant Savings from B&H. Ends 7-30-2011.

Canon 550D/T2i w/18-55mm zoom, $749.95 after a $50.00 Instant Savings from B&H. Ends 7-9-2011.

Sony SLT A55 w/18-55mm zoom, $799.99 after a $50.00 Instant Savings from B&H. Ends 7-9-2011.

All 3 cameras have free USA shipping.

With its built-in focusing motor and Sony's version of Image Stabilization in the camera body and use of the legacy Minolta Maxxum "A" lens mount the SLT A55 can use the Legacy Minolta Maxxum AF lenses dating back to 1985 and they will auto focus and become, in effect, IS lenses.

The Nikon D3100 requires the more expensive Nikon AF-S lenses if you want them to auto focus.

Canon and Nikon have their respective versions of IS in some but not all of their lenses plus you pay for it over and over. A Minolta Maxxum AF 50mm f1.4 prime lens on the A55 will be an IS lens. Neither Nikon nor Canon offers an IS 50mm prime lens.

In my opinion the Sony SLT A55 offers technology and features that Nikon and Canon lack. Its only a matter of time before Canon and Nikon will have to respond by upgrading their technology to match that of the Sony A55.

Which DSLR to buy? Canon, Nikon, Sony, or other?

afterglow8

I'm just getting into photography, and i'm really feeling the need for a real camera - so far i've been shooting on fuji point and shoot, but i need more. So i've been looking for a DSLR.

I've heard good things about the canon 450D, and the nikon D5000, and i've heard a lot of people saying 'don't bother with sony' but is this just snobbery? Sony cameras seem to be a lot cheaper - i can get the entry level sony (i think it's the 230) for â¬500, including an 18-55 and a 55-200. in comparison the entry level nikon and canon are around â¬650-750 with one lense (18-55).

Also, is entry level good enough? or should i get a better model? Price isn't really an issue, but at the same time i'm not going to waste my money on an expensive camera if a cheaper one does the same job.

If you want an idea of what i shoot, http://khayman82.deviantart.com/gallery/ http://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/1052914/viewall and http://www.bigstockphoto.com/profile/afterglow82 have most of my favourites between them

For a bonus point, what lenses would you say i need for these kind of shots? (i'm getting more into modelling and portrait photography)

Answer
Rob H has clearly never used a Sony. Perhaps he might want to look how the Sony A580 jpeg ISO compares to the Nikon D7000 costing TWICE the price...that was a classic example of anti-Sony snobbery. :) In RAW there will be very little between them as they have the SAME Sony sensor.

If you are really on a budget then the A230 twin lens will probably do you, but you may want to consider the A3xx series as these have Live-View. LV is useful for overhead crowd shots and low down ground shots if you get the swivel LCD screen. LV is also useful for Manual Focus Check for macro work. Unlike the Canikon models, LV is very fast on a Sony.

Have a look at the Sony A3xx series and A5xx series. The A580 has an excellent sensor and features for the price compared to the over-priced Canikons. Also consider the A33 and A55, they have the fastest video auto-focus out there.

Any dSLR of any brand will give you shots like in your examples, in the right hands of course...

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Canon Rebel XSi help with?

trinitaria

What do you think about the camera and which lense is best? Mainly photo's (portraits and such) and action pics. (A lot of action pics). would be taken with this camera. Thanks so much!

Answer
The camera will be fine. There are a lot of different levels of action pics (that people have described) ranging from your kids playing in the yard to combat photography. Assuming you will be leaning towards the first choice I will start you off on the cheaper side. The most all inclusive lens is the 18-200mm IS. Suitable for just about anything from landscapes to some light sports (so nothing you are getting paid for). Normally you need to buy two lenses to cover that range. You can get better quality gear if you buy two different lenses but it will be more expensive. If money is not a concern the 17-85 IS lens + the 70-300mm IS or 70-200f/4 IS or non IS. The 70-200 f/4 is an L series pro lens which means superior build and image quality. The non IS version also means its about $700 which is probably the best value of any lens out there, since you would already have the 17-85 IS this might be a good option to look into. Before you invest in an expensive zoom lens like that though, go to a store and make sure you like the range. I use a 70-200 zoom to shoot College soccer, hockey, baseball, basketball, rugby etc, so it is definitely sufficient if a little short for soccer. Also be aware that f/4 is not really usable indoors without a flash for fast moving objects because you wont have enough light for the proper shutter speeds. However a 70-200 f/2.8 lens is far more expensive, 1100 or 1700 for no IS and IS. the f/4 version is probably your best bet if you have the money. Lastly when you get the camera read the manual all the way through. There are lots of tips and tricks for taking good pictures. Learn how to use the creative modes as they will serve you far better than the auto modes when situations are less than optimal.

What kind of wide angle lens and flash should i buy if any?

zach30345

Im a 17 year old kid with photography as my hobby and i need some help. I have a standard canon telephoto lens 75-300 and i have 18-55 IS canon lens, these are for my canon xsi. I am on a tight budget and i want to get a wide angle lens, and a flash. What ones should i get?

you can view some of pictures at zacharybarron.com

Answer
Unfortunately, a lens that would be wide angle for your camera won't be cheap. The Sigma 10-20,12-24, Tokina 12-24 or Canon 10-22 are all between £320 and £450 here in the UK, so as a guess I'd say min $450. If you want one, it's gonna cost unless you go second hand.
A flash can be had cheaper, though I'd recommend the 430EXII as a minimum. It has enough features to keep useful, but not as expensive as the top of the range 580EXII. Any lower down the range and you lose the option of tilt AND swivel which is quite important if you want to bounce flash, swivel being necessary when shooting in portrait. 430EXII is around £200 here, so again, as a guess I'd say $250-$300 minimum for you.
These prices may have been alot more than you were expecting, maybe only one or the other will be doable for you. One bonus, that either the UWA lens or a good flash will last you years. Both good additions to your kit.

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Which brand/model DSLR Camera?

Amit littl

I am thinking of buying a DSLR Camera and I am confused about which brand should I go for and what model that won't cost me arms and legs. Any help?

Answer
Any of the entry level DSLRs would keep you happy for a few years. I'd pick either Canon or Nikon. I have a LOT of contact with other photographers and time and time again it seems that either one of those are most likely to make their owners happy.

The most important part is to buy only the best lenses - camera bodies get upgraded, lenses stay with us.
You WILL regret buying cheap lenses.
Don't rush into buying lenses. Start with a kit lens, get to know your camera, that lens, and all photographic principles.
Through time and through use, you will eventually KNOW what other lenses you'll need/want.
The more time you'll take, the less likely you are to regret your choices.

If you know anyone close to you with a camera, consider borrowing lenses and "picking their brain" about their camera and whatever else they know.

Go to a store and hold a few cameras, see how they feel to YOU.

Do lots of research before you buy, and start learning about photography, too.

Keep in mind that buying a DSLR isn't cheap, even if you find a good deal for body and kit lens.

You'll also want and/or need a few other things such as tripod, filters, a bag, sensor cleaning gear, a second battery, memory cards, perhaps a remote shutter release etc.

That's just the small stuff - I can guarantee you that you'll also want more and more lenses.
You'll also want a decent flash some day.

See how that list just goes on and on?
Owning a DSLR isn't cheap - at least not until you have built up a nice stash of gear.

Just some food for thought........

Are different DSLR camera and lens brands compatible?

snap diggy

My hubby bought me a Sony a lens for Valentine's day! Sweet, but I own a Nikon D40! Is there any way to use them together still? I already tried, and even though they look very similar, they do not seem to fit together.

Answer
Lenses are built for one of the several different "lens mounts" found on dSLRs:

F mount: Used by Nikon and Fuji
EF Mount: Used by Canon
A/α mount: Previously used by Minolta, now by Sony
SA mount: Used by Sigma
K mount: Used by Pentax and Samsung
4:3 mount: Used by Olympus and Panasonic

A lens made for one of these mounts will not fit on any of the others. And most body makers, with the exception of Sigma, only make lenses for their own respective mount.

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What is the best camera to buy for sports photography?

Winged Whe

First of all I am a PHD user of cameras (Push Here Dummy) (I don't want to deal with changing of lenses, focusing, backlighting, etc.) I have 2 kids in sports (soccer, gymnastics, basketball & football). They are often far away in the middle or on the other side of the field and of course in action! I want to be able to take quality CLOSE UP pictures with PHD function - good, fast, self-focusing zoom function an absolute must, and multiple fast repeating shots. So what are the best ones out there - I am not made of money so I would like to stay well under $1,000 while maintaining quality of picture and product performance. Anyone who has the experience to advise on what the aspects are to consider with regard to zoom capabilities/multi-frame shots and/or pinpoint a couple of selections would be greatly appreciated. (We have 7.0 mega pixel purse size camera, but its zoom while O.K. for nearby photos is O.K. just won't cut it for the sports!)

Answer
Unfortunately, the only cameras that can truly catch any action shots are exactly what you said you do not want. A DSLR camera with interchangeable lenses is really the only cameras that don't have perceptible shutter lag. I know of no point and shoot camera that does not have shutter lag from a half second or worse.

DSLR cameras are really modified film cameras so all the digital image related maters are dealt with after the sensor is exposed. Point and shoot cameras do a whole list of things after you press the shutter release and before the exposure is actually made.

Best digital camera with manual controls (DSLR?) for a beginner and information on using a manual camera?

PixdeeArti

I have been taking photos for years with a nice point and shoot. I think I have developed a good eye for content, but it is time to actually have good equipment to go with it. There is only so far PhotoShop can take you if the original is not high quality. My point and shoots are a Minolta Dimage Z2 and a Olympus Stylus 770Sw for underwater. I have a few lenses for the Dimage that have helped, but I think I am ready for the next level.

I need advice on two things 1) Best entry level manual control digital camera - possibly a DSLR - at the best price for what you get (prefer under $1000 if possible) 2) Best book and/or other information about f stops, exposure, etc. that you need to know for using these types of cameras.

Answer
Nikon D80.

The D40-60 range is cheaper but it doesn't autofocus with all Nikon AF lenses, a significant flaw.

Get the kit lens to start, or better yet the 18-70.

Here's the book:

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Cameras-Photography-Dummies-Computer/dp/0470149272/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1203206299&sr=8-2

You should also stock up on books by Cartier-Bresson, Avedon, Ansel Adams and the other greats.

HTH
V2K1

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camera lens?

sinjin369

Answer
Camera lens
A photographic lens (or more correctly, objective) is an optical lens or assembly of lenses used in conjunction with a camera body and mechanism to make images of objects either on photographic film or on other media capable of storing an image chemically or electronically.

While in principle a simple convex lens will suffice, in practice a compound lens made up of a number of optical lens elements is required to correct the many optical aberrations that arise.

There is no difference in principle between a lens used for a camera, a telescope, a microscope, or other apparatus, but the detailed design and construction are different.

A lens may be permanently fixed to a camera, or it may be interchangeable with lenses of different focal lengths and other properties.

A practical camera lens will often incorporate an aperture adjustment mechanism, often an iris diaphragm, to regulate the amount of light that may pass. A shutter, to regulate the time during which light may pass, may be incorporated within the lens assembly, or may be within the camera, or even, rarely, in front of the lens.

The lens may usually be focused by adjusting the distance from the lens assembly to the image-forming surface, or by moving elements within the lens assembly.

The lens elements are made of transparent materials. Glass is the most widely used material due to its good optical properties and resistance to scratching. Various plastics, such as acrylic (or PMMA), the material of Plexiglas, can also be used. Plastics allow the manufacture of strongly aspherical lens elements which are difficult or impossible to manufacture in glass, and which simplify or improve lens manufacture and performance. Plastics are not used for the outermost elements of all but the cheapest lenses as they scratch easily. Moulded plastic lenses have been used for the cheapest disposable cameras for many years, and have acquired a bad reputation: manufacturers of quality optics tend to use euphemisms such as "optical resin".

The maximum usable aperture of a lens is usually specified, as the focal ratio or f-number, which is equal to the focal length divided by the actual aperture diameter in the same units. The lower the number, the more light is admitted through the lens. Practical lens assemblies may also contain mechanisms to deal with measuring light, to hold the aperture open until the instant of exposure to allow SLR cameras to focus with a bright image, etc.

The two main optical parameters of a photographic lens are the focal length and the maximum aperture. The focal length determines the angle of view, the size of the image relative to that of the object, and the perspective; the maximum aperture limits the brightness of the image and the fastest shutter speed usable.

Focal lengths are usually specifed in millimeters (mm), but older lenses marked in centimeter (cm) and inches are still to be found. For a given film or sensor size, specifed by the length of the diagonal, a lens may be classified as

* Normal lens: angle of view of the diagonal about 50°, the same as the human eye: a focal length approximately equal to the diagonal produces this angle.
* Wide-angle lens: focal length shorter than normal, and angle of view wider.
* Long-focus or telephoto lens: focal length longer than normal, and angle of view narrower. A distinction is sometimes made between a long-focus lens and a true telephoto lens: the telephoto lens is designed to be physically shorter than its focal length.

The 35mm film format is so prevalent that a 90mm lens, for example, is always assumed to be a moderate telephoto; but for the 7x5cm format it is normal, while on the large 5x4 inch format it is a wide-angle.

The real difference between lenses of different focal length is not the image size, but the perspective. You can take photographs of a person stretching out a hand with a wideangle, a normal lens, and a telephoto, which contain exactly the same image size by changing your distance from the subject. But the perspective will be different. With the wideangle, the hand will be exaggeratedly large relative to the head; as the focal length increases, the emphasis on the outstretched hand decreases. However, if you take pictures from the same distance, and enlarge and crop them to contain the same view, the pictures will be truly identical. A moderate long-focus (telephoto) lens is often recommended for portraiture because the flatter perspective is considered to look more realistic.

Some lenses, called zoom lenses, have a focal length which varies as internal elements are moved, typically by rotating the barrel or pressing a button which activates an electric motor. The lens may zoom from moderate wide-angle, through normal, to moderate telephoto; or from normal to extreme telephoto. The zoom range is limited by manufacturing constraints; the ideal of a lens of large maximum aperture which will zoom from extreme wideangle to extreme telephoto is not attainable. Zoom lenses are widely used for small-format cameras of all types: still and cine cameras with fixed or interchangeable lenses. Bulk and price limit their use for larger film sizes.

The complexity of a lensâthe number of elements and their degree of asphericityâdepends upon the angle of view and the maximum aperture. An extreme wideangle lens of large aperture must be of very complex construction to correct for optical aberrations, which are worse at the edge of the field and when the edge of a large lens is used for image-forming. A long-focus lens of small aperture can be of very simple construction to attain comparable image quality; a doublet (with two elements) will often suffice. Some older cameras were fitted with "convertible" lenses of normal focal length; the front element could be unscrewed, leaving a lens of twice the focal length and angle of view, and half the aperture. The simpler half-lens was of adequate quality for the narrow angle of view and small relative aperture. Obviously the bellows had to extend to twice the normal length.

Good-quality lenses with maximum aperture no greater than f/2.8 and fixed, normal, focal length need three (triplet) or four elements (the trade name "Tessar" derives from the Greek tessera, meaning "four"). The widest-range zooms often have fifteen or more. The reflection of light at each of the many interfaces between different optical media (air, glass, plastic) seriously degraded the contrast and color saturation of early lenses, zoom lenses in particular, especially where the lens was directly illuminated by a light source. The introduction many years ago of optical coatings, and advances in coating technology over the years, have resulted in major improvements, and modern high-quality zoom lenses give images of quite acceptable contrast.

How do I know what camera lens go with my camera?

Zack

Answer
Camera lenses and cameras have mount systems - the mechanical method by which a lens is attached to the camera.

Each camera manufacturer has its own mount system. So you will need to choose a lens with the same mount system as your camera. Check the manufacturers website, either of the camera, or the lenses. They will tell you which lens goes with which camera.

If you see a lens for sale somewhere, and the lens mount is not mentioned, then don't buy it. Because it likely won't work on your camera.

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Can someone clarify for me what type of camera lens this is? And is it a good deal?

nipsy3

This Tamron AF 18-250mm F/3.5-6.3 Di-II lens is described as a macro and zoom lens. Aren't macro lenses for close-up photography only? Is this some type of all-purpose lens that works well for both? If so would it make sense to have this type of lens rather than seperate macro and telephoto lenses?

Thanks.

http://www.amazon.com/Tamron-18-250mm-3-5-6-3-Aspherical-Digital/dp/B000IBLMHQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1286140588&sr=8-1&tag=dealnewscom

Answer
Macro lenses are not just for close up work only. They are good for portraits & other general photography as well, its just that they have the ability to close focus.

The lens you linked to is not a true macro lens as it only magnifies in a 1:3.5 ratio. A true macro lens will reproduce an image in a 1:1 ratio on the film or sensor.

The focal length range would make this lens a good all purpose general lens, but you'll find its image quality will not be as good as say a prime lens for a specific focal length.

Help me with a camera choice! ?

AlliGAtors

Attention Yahoo users I need some help choosing a new digital camera.

I am limited by several factors so it has come down to 2 choices.

Canon PowerShot A590IS 8MP Digital Camera

or

Kodak 5x Zoom 14.0 Mega pixel Digital Camera w/ Smart Capture

What brand do you prefer for your digital camera use? Would you recommend a Kodak or Canon? Any experience with the above cameras?

Thanks!

Answer
Just saw this Canon A590IS camera at Best Buy and Radio Shack. Think it is a great camera and a best buy. It has a viewfinder, optical image stabilizer, auto focus, and uses NiMH rechargeable batteries.
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/A590IS/A590ISA.HTM ...
http://bountii.com/deal-1523871-canon-powershot-8-0-megapixel.html ...

For expanded wide angle or telephoto capabilities, the A590 IS is compatible with Canon's accessory lens adapters: A small button next to the lens bezel is actually a latch; press it and you can remove the bezel ring, exposing a bayonet mount for accessory lenses. Canon offers the WC-DC52 0.7x wide-angle lens, the TC-DC52A telephoto lens, the 250D 52mm closeup lens separately, along with the LA-DC52G adapter to mount them on the camera. (Note that the wide, tele, and macro lenses all need the LA-DC52G adapter to mount them to the camera. The lenses won't work by themselves.)

There is no one particular place to get great buys, but you may see something above that really helps you find the best buy. Click on the second link in the information above for an example then search for your camera of choice at the upper left. Camera prices at this link change often.

In new cameras, look for a viewfinder (LCD invisible in bright sun), optical (not CCD) image stabilizer, and check battery prices. High mega pixel settings take longer to process and may not be needed unless required for very large pictures. Maximum print size for a 3 mega pixel setting is 8 x 10 inches. Click links below for more details.
http://www.kodak.com/eknec/PageQuerier.jhtml?pq-path=398&pq-locale=en_US&_requestid=2039 ...
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/mpmyth.htm ...

CAUTION Do not overcharge! Batteries can be damaged. Use an automatic two or more hour Energizer Compact smart charger with temperature monitor, trickle charge technology, and safety timer ($9.76) at Walmart. Use pre-charged 2000mAh Duracell ($12.97) or RayOVac ($5.97) batteries (hold charge one year) and a full cycle charge. To preserve battery charge, use the viewfinder.

There are so many cameras out there it is difficult to say which is best, but the second source link will be very helpful as it list most of the cameras out there with prices. The following information should help you know what to look for in a camera.

What gives a camera its picture quality?
The short answer is that it is mostly the skill of the photographer that produces high quality pictures. The lens and camera are very important, but the ability to set the scene, adjust the cameras settings, and hold the camera very still or use a tripod with auto or remote shutter actuation when required is what gets the great pictures.

Lots of great camera tips in this link.
http://www.danscamera.com/Learning/going_digital/#resolution ...

My camera has 5.2 mega pixel, but I use 3 most of the time because it gives great results, is faster, and takes less memory. Also, it only has a 3 x optical zoom and 7 x digital zoom. I never use the digital zoom because making pictures larger works better on the computer. This is an old camera, but everyone is impressed with the quality pictures it takes ... like magic.

Check with the Geeks in several stores and compare prices. Once you select a camera, read all about it in the owner's manual. You can view owners manuals at this link, but will need to Login. http://www.retrevo.com/s/digital+camera ...

The source links show most of the cameras out there with prices and make digital cameras work better with help on cleaning camera and battery electrical contacts.

Source:
http://www.google.com/base/a/4210404/D13701973093918363271
http://reviews.cnet.com/digital-cameras/ ...
http://dpreview.com/ ...

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DSLR camera question...?

Ashley

I want to be able to take a fast action picture with my Canon rebel xsi. I know i need to use a fast shutter speed but what do i do if the lighting is dim?

Answer
You have a few different issues you have to confront.

1) Action photography requires shutter speeds of at least 1/500th second.
2) If you are shooting inside like a NBA game, you will need to balance the cost of a fast lens (f/2.8 or faster) and the image noise that can be the result of shooting at high ISO's

Since most sports venues do not allow uncontrolled flash exposures (in other words, on camera flash units), you have only your skills as a sports photographer and the equipment you have.

In your case, set your camera to the aperture priority mode with your lens set to its widest opening and the ISO on the camera cranked up as high as it can go. With your camera in this configuration, take some test shots. Look for the highest shutter speed available under the exiting lighting and the amount of noise created at the high ISO.

You can enhance an image file to reduce the amount of noise apparent in the image with a program like Noise Ninja (a plug-in for Photoshop), but you cannot repair images that show any blur caused by camera or subject movement. The whole shoot is a balancing act when shooting action or sports indoors.

The one thing on your side is the images captured rarely are printed any larger that 4x6 inches in a magazine or sports newspaper and when posted on the Internet are usually an image that is 600x400 pixels @ 72 DPI

NOTE:

* Remember to set your white balance to match the lighting in the sports venue.

* Once you have determined the optimum shutter speed, ISO and aperture, use your camera in the manual mode at those settings. Why? 1) The camera will not have to take any time to determine the correct exposure each time you press the shutter release and 2) you can do this because the lighting in professional sports venues is very even.

Opinions on Olympus dSLR?

Jae

What is your opinion on them?
Build?
Quality?
Reliability?

Answer
I have now or have owned Olympus 35mm SLR and Digital SLR cameras. Currently, two E1's and an E3 plus a number of OM 35mm bodies and lenses.

Previously Olympus E500 (Sold it to raise $$ for the E3).

All of these cameras have been extremely well built.
I have dropped an E1 with lens and smashed the lens beyond repair but I mounted a different lens and kept on shooting.
Lens quality is excellent:
Olympus makes three grades of lenses - Standard, High Grade and Super High Grade.
Their standard grade (economy) lenses that are usually sold in "kits" are some of the best available budget lenses and continually get higher ratings than most other lenses.
Now I mostly use the High Grade lenses (because they are brighter optics and have dust/water seals to help protect against harsh conditions which explains the significant cost difference) and they optics are outstanding!
I have rented Super High Grade lenses for specific situations and they are amazing! I have two of these on my "wish list".
All the camera bodies I have used were also very well made. Most have metal (aluminum) or titanium bodies covered with molded plastic or rubber.

Reliability ~ I had the one serviced because the shutter was sometimes sticking and it was repaired under warranty only cost was shipping charge to get it to them. Prompt courteous service.

My only complaints are on E3 some controls are a bit too easy to knock out of adjustment and I find it easy to dislodge eye cup and viewfinder attachments. A bit of tape takes care of that.

HTH. Email if you need more details.

Here are some images i have posted on Flickr.

Most 35mm images on this are scanned slides from Minolta SRT cameras that predate OM.
Most digital images are from Oly E1, E3 or E500

http://www.flickr.com/photos/robs-photo-memory/sets/

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Canon Kiss X4 Kit (18-55mm) vs. Canon EOS 550D EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Kit (Rebel T2i)?

Empty

Okay so I'm pretty positive that Kiss X4 is the SAME as EOS 550D / Rebel T2i.

So why is there such a price difference here? They both have the same lens kit. I don't get it. :S

Kiss X4:
http://www.digitalrev.com/en/canon-kiss-x4-kit-18-55mm-8110.html?match_type=1&sort_ord=5&sort_dir=desc

EOS 550D:
http://www.digitalrev.com/en/canon-eos-550d-ef-s-18-55mm-f3-dot-5-5-dot-6-is-kit-7823.html?match_type=1&sort_ord=5&sort_dir=desc

Much appreciated. Thank you!

Answer
Canon EOS Rebel T2i 18 MP CMOS APS-C Digital SLR Camera with 3.0-Inch LCD and EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens
http://7thingsdigital.com/?p=123

REview: I'm a frequent upgrader and loyal Canon fan. I traded up from an XSi last year to the T1i, and now this year to the T2i. I was within days of ordering the 7D until they announced the T2i, with all the features I wanted from the 7D at half the cost. I immediately pre-ordered the T2i and have been having some fun with it over the last 24 hours. The verdict so far? I am in love with this SLR.

I believe the last few iterations in the Rebel series have been comparable in quality. The T2i shares much of the same pros and cons with its predecessors, and ultimately, not too much has really changed. That said, the very minor things that did change were huge to me. I'm big into video, which is what got me looking into the 7D. Both the 7D and the T2i have the stereo audio input jack. My T1i just had the built-in mono mic which was unacceptable for someone who is doing more than home videos with this camera. So that feature, along with full manual control of video recording (not available in T1i), and 1080/24p (and 30p if that's your preference) makes this a common sense upgrade if you're serious about video. 720p/60 is also really cool for the silky smooth framerate, although I personally find the movie-like feel of 24p video best.

As for what the camera is really made for, still photography, it is still the king at (in the mid-entry-level DSLR class). 18 megapixels really, truly is more than any person really needs. My XSi from a couple years back met all my needs with 12mp, however, 18 creates for even better bragging rights to the general public. "How many megapixies is that thingy? Eighteen? OMG! You are such a pro!" Anyway, back on track now. The noise levels in most photos I've taken are pretty decent for 18 megapixels. It's comparable to the noise on the 15MP T1i from what I've experienced so far. 6400 ISO is now a default option instead of an expanded setting (12800 ISO still is), which is nice to have, though you'll hopefully never have to use it.

The kit lens is of course the same old 18-55 I've bought practically 5 times over now. A great budget lens and excellent value, but I absolutely can't go back to using it after buying some of the better lenses Canon has to offer. If the money's there, you will not regret investing another few hundred dollars some better glass. Otherwise, the 18-55 is a great lens to start out with.

Only major complaint I have is the white balance in incandescent lighting still isn't as accurate as I'd like. I also wish they kept the same LP-E5 battery so the two I already have would be compatible with both of my cameras. And a nitpick, the "Rebel" name is stupid, to be completely honest. It should be named "550D" as it is in the Europe market. SDXC support is cool, but I can't really comment on it as I'll be using SDHC cards for the foreseeable future. Oh, and the slightly redesigned buttons are a welcome change. A little more ergonomic than before.

In conclusion, if you're thinking about upgrading from a T1i, there isn't really a compelling reason to unless you are okay spending hundreds just for the sake of having the latest in gadgetry (what I do), UNLESS you are in it for the video support, which is AMAZING at this price point. You used to have to spend at least a couple thousand on a professional camcorder to get the kind of video support that you can now get in a consumer DSLR at a very reasonable price. Thanks, Canon! Oh, and amazon got it to me super fast too!

What is a good lens for the canon 7D Video and Pictures?

Shelly

And if possible what are some good site to get accessory for my 7D and for a reasonable price

Answer
Hey,

The 7D is an amazing DSLR, with great video recording.

What do you mostly record? People, cities, landscape or animals?

I don't (yet probably) have the 7D, but I know I'd often use the 50mm f/1.4 on it. Videos look so awesome when you use the widest aperture and the background appears blurred. However, you need to focus manually and at f/1.4, you must be very accurate! Stop down to f/8 - f/22 and most of your scene will be in focus.

If you shoot landscape, cities and indoor, I recommend you to buy the Canon 10-22 or Sigma 10-20. Macro is wonderful too! Record little insects like ants, or flowers moving. Maybe even water drops.

Take a look at this post called 'Buying a lens, which are good ones and what's important. At the beginning, you also have links to 'buying a macro, sports, telephoto, wide or portrait lens - you choose which. There are Amazon links, so you can buy it.

Second, I recommend you to get a Battery Grip for your 7D. Look here which is for your camera and why should you buy one - http://the-digital-photographer.blogspot.com/2009/11/buying-battery-grip.html

Good Luck

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Why should I pay more than 900$ for a dslr camera what doesn't Canon 600D have?

an Imagina

here is the full specification
http://www.dpreview.com/previews/canoneos600d/page2.asp
I'll upgrade for a better lens later
canon 600 D is an entry level DSLR so why should I pay for med range DSLR camera that cost at least 2000$

Answer
You are right in a way, the 600D is an excellent specification for the cash, and will satisfy probably 90% of camera buyers.

Here are a few reasons why there are more expensive models:

R & D costs. More advanced cameras require research & development, yet often sell fewer units.
Result, higher cost. Cameras like the 600D reap the rewards of this R&D a year or two down the line and sell many more units so can be cheaper.
The benefit is top end pro cameras for those who need them, and technology advancement for the rest of us.

Material costs: More metal costs more money, rebels are largely plastic, a 7D is largely metal, a 1D series has a much bigger chassis and is metal. Glass penta-prism rather than mirrors and air pentamirror viewfinder.
Benefit, robust pro cameras with clear bright viewfinders for those who really need them for precision focus composition etc. Build quality realistic to it's intended use for mere mortals.

Manufacturing costs: There is more engineering required to build in and fit gaskets for weather sealing etc. Benefits: Pros have cameras they can depend on in inclement conditions. The rest of us are fair weather photographers.

More processing clout: twin image processors in the 7D and 1D series cameras, plus an additional AF processor in the 7D and 1D series. On all other EOS models there is one processor that takes care of everything from image to AF.
Benefit: super fast and tweakable AF, searing frame rates. A pro WILL get the shot. How fast do the rest of us need our cameras to be? All EOS models are pretty fast compared to price-point peers.

Bigger bodies fit bigger hands, the Quick Control DIal assists fast adjustment and there are less menus to go through.
Benefits: Fast handling, intuituve controls. You can operate every major function with the camera at your eye, on a rebel you need to take it away to find the menu button, the Av button etc. Pros need to work an adjust more quickly, for the rebel users out of green square mode there is likely to be a more pedestrian pace in any case.

Large image device.
Benefit for those wanting the lowest noise in their images as larger photosites require less electronic boost and it gets the full benefit of wide angle lenses or shallow depth of field lenses, particularly the tilt shift lenses where DoF can be manipulated very very precisely in 3D, not to mention that the adjustment knobs on TS-E lenses foul on rebels and 60D 7Ds.

In short, the 600D is exceptional, if you don't require the very fastest drive or AF then there is little obvious benefit to spending more on the likes of a 60D or 7D with the same processing engines and sensor.

I have a 550D and it's great. Not as great as my 7D FOR MY PURPOSES, but a very worthy back up cam, and to be truthful, neither quite fit in the hand as nicely or the controls fall under my fingers as quickly as on my EOS 3.

Canon make exceptional cameras at all price points. How much you need the extra features will ultimately determine how much you spend. As I say, with no duality of meaning at all, 90% of DSLR buyers will find the 600D does everything they need very well.

Which DSLR camera is better? A Nikon or Canon?

paul andre

Some photographers would tell me that they've been using Nikon for a very long time and they dont know anything about Canon DSLRs. But as i see it Canon is a competitive brand if you are considering to buy a DSLR. So what am i going to consider if I want to buy a DSLR camera?

Answer
there is near stuff all to separate all the major dSLR cameras out there. at each price point the cameras offer similar features and a simialr specification.

don't rule out the likes of Sony, Pentax/ Samsung, Olympus or Sigma

all have been making cameras and lenses for a long long time (sony bought out the camera division of Minolta.

theres a lot of ignorance on here saying buy thios brand, buy that brand this brand is used by professionals, that brand is blah di blah. most of that is claptrap, its people suggestign a brand or camera because it reinforces the decision they made to buy that camera.

just because fred bloggs has that camera then it dfoens' make it a better camera for you.

make YOUR mind up over
what features you require
how big a sensor (anythign over 5mp is good enough for most people)
how good a lens you need, zoom range, focal length(s), f stop.

from my perspective... if you want to follow the sheep buy a Nikon or Canon. if you want to make your own mind up then do so.... but don't rule out the other players int he dSLR marketplace.

theres is a lot of claptrap spoken about lenses.. theres a better range for nikon or canon, there may be but most are not specifcally designed for digital camera sensors, theres a lot of claptrap sayiong canon and nikon are better because they can use older lenses (if you happen to already have bough canon or nikon lenses then it makes sense to buy the same body and reuse the lens... but if you are buying from scratch it doens't matter on e jot whether you buy canon, nikon, olympus whatever.

fwiw I bought an Olympus E510 with a twin lens kit. its smaller & lighter than the competition, its as goods as or better than the competition depends on who you read. the kit lenses are superior to the kit lenses on the canon & Nikon. the features its 'missing' are irrelevant to me.. I cna't attach an external battery pack, I cannpt attach a battery pack which replicates buttons on the camera.. so what I don't di studio shooting.. I want a camera which is small, portable and light weight..... cameras with external battery packs are not. cameras that don't use the 4/3rds standard have heavier and bulkier lenses.

decide waht you want a camera for and buy a camera that meets YOUR budget and meets your requirements. it may be that that camera is a Nikon, but make up your mind.

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camera package advice?

Payton

So im looking at packages such as this one: http://www.amazon.com/T3i-75-300mm-Telephoto-Accessory-Kit/dp/B005KUGXJW/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1368422743&sr=8-11&keywords=canon+rebel+t3i+packages
does this look like a good deal? do you know of any packages that come with canon brand accessories? Im looking for stuff under 750$ and want more lenses, filters, a memory card, and possibly a remote. thanks

Answer
http://www.amazon.com/T3i-75-300mm-Telephoto-Accessory-Kit/dp/B005KUGXJW/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1368422743&sr=8-11&keywords=canon+rebel+t3i+packages

This package isn't worth the money. A couple of flimsy tripods I wouldn't trust using with a point & shoot compact digital camera much less a DSLR. Canon's worst lens ever, the 75-300mm. A couple of cheap image degrading screw in attachments. Forget about this so-called deal.

Look at B&H for better deals. B&H has the T3i w/18-55mm zoom lens for $599.00 after a $50.00 'Instant Savings' that ends June 1, 2013. B&H also has a two lens kit - T3i w/18-55mm zoom and 55-250mm zoom - for $599.00 after a $200.00 'Instant Savings' that ends June 8, 2013.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com Just do a search for canon t3i and then make your decision as to which deal is best for you.

Looking for quality video camera recommendations?

KEVIN L

I'm very close to purchasing the Canon EOS Rebel T4i in a package that includes an 18-135mm and 55-250mm lens....Is this better than the T3i? Is there other brands that shoot better quality video/photos?

Answer
HD Camcorders and DSLR Cameras interpolate the video, which means of every 25 frames of video, 4 or 5 frames are taken by the lens assembly; the other frames in between these are filled in by the camcorder inner circuitry, thus giving you not true video. It looks like this -one frame from the lens assembly, 7or 8 from the electronic circuitry, one frame from the lens assembly, 7or 8 from the electronic circuitry, one frame from the lens assembly, 7or 8 from the electronic circuitry, one frame from the lens assembly, 7or 8 from the electronic circuitry, from front to back of the video. Near impossible to edit, even when you have the Multi port processor computer with the big 1GB Graphics card and a Sound card that is required to edit, view, watch and work with the files these camcorders produce.

DSLR Cameras, all Makes, all Models, all have the same problem when video taping some long videos, all overheat at the 13 to 18 minute mark, depending on the Make and Model. This is unavoidable, it all has to with the fact, video is an afterthought in DSLR camera production.

Consumer Level HD Camcorders and DSLR Cameras have 4 problems. 1) Blurry, fuzzy, out of focus areas closely around people in videos taken by consumer level HD camcorders. 2) Any movement, even a wave or lifting an arm, while in front of a recording Consumer Level HD Camcorder and DSLR Cameras, results in screen ghosts and artifacts being left on the video track, following the movement. Makes for bad video, sports videos are unwatchable. 3) These Consumer Level HD Camcorders and DSLR Cameras all have a habit of the transferred to computer files are something you need to convert, thus losing your HD quality, to work with your editing software. 4) Mandatory maximum record times - 1 hour, 30 minutes, 8 minutes, 3 minutes â four different times advertised as maximum record time for some Consumer Level HD Camcorders and DSLR Cameras. No event I have ever been to is that short. Either take multiple camcorders and DSLR Cameras or pack up with out getting the end of the event on video.

MiniDV is currently the most popular format for consumer digital camcorders. MiniDV camcorders are typically more affordable than their HDD and DVD counterparts. Each MiniDV tape will typically hold an hour of footage at normal recording speed and quality. MiniDV tapes are available for purchase at not only electronic and camera stores, but also at drugs stores and grocery stores, making them easy to find while your on vacation. There are literally hundreds of MiniDV camcorders available; both in standard and high-definition. And add the fact that to get a HD camcorder that could produce better video quality footage, one would have to spend in excess of $3500 for that camcorder that could produce higher quality video

http://simplevideoediting.com/learn/part1_camcorder_choices.htm

http://simplevideoediting.com/learn/part2_connect_camcorder.htm

http://usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/camcorders/consumer_camcorders/vixia_hv40#Overview

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Canon 7d portrait lens?

Hello Ther

Need lens for family and closeup shootings.
I already have canon 70-200mm f4/L.

Answer
Everyone seems so hung up on the 50mm these days. Yes the lens is very fast and if you want to shoot indoors without flash this is probably the lens - expensive but an excellent lens.

Me I shoot both my dslr cameras with the Canon 28-200 and I get results like this.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jimsphotostuff/5029670175/sizes/l/in/photostream/

Defused flash you understand

Canon EOS 7D Lens Recommendations?

Katie

I am planning on buying a Canon EOS 7D (with the kit lens-Canon 28-135mm IS f/3.5-5.6) within the next couple weeks, and I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for some lenses. I just need some recommendations on lenses that I can use as I am getting used to the camera (good to learn with) and that I will be able to use as I progress and be used on possibly a professional basis. I will be using the camera for shooting everything, not anything specific if that helps any.

I'm only 16, but I design web sites so I have a very good income, so price isn't that big of a deal as long as it is worth it. I would still like the prices to be reasonable if that isn't too much to ask... I have been looking for a macro lens, fish eye lens, and a wide angle lens specifically, but I would like to get a wide variety of lenses.

If anyone has any recommendations for anything else that I would need to buy with this camera that would be great. I figure if I'm spending this much on a camera I would like to put it to good use.

Should I get a battery grip?

What kind of CF memory card should I get?

Bag recommendations that can keep everything safe?

I know I want to work on time lapses, so I need a recommendation for a intervolmeter. Any good ones?

Anything else I'm forgetting?

I have an idea on what I need for the last couple questions, but I would like a second opinion.

Thanks to anyone who helps!

Answer
Forget the 28-135, no usable wide angle, if you want a walkaround. Beleive it or not the 18-55 EF-S IS is actually a stonking lens if you can get one for the right cash (split from kit, nearly new on an auction site etc)

I prefer a mix of primes and fast zooms for my 7D:

Tokina 11-16 f2.8. Exemplary lens, head and shoulders above any of the other UWAs.

Canon 18-55 IS (previously had the 17-40 F4L, but was using this lens more often, so sold the 17-40, which is a good lens, but not worth the extra to my mind, having used both on a 7D)

Canon 70-200 f2.8L (non IS version. A lot of lens for the money, optically superior to all but the IS mk2) a benchmark.

Canon 50mm f1.8. Rude not to, great low light or portrait shooter.

Sigma 70mm f2.8 EX Macro. The most sensible and optically the best macro for APS-C type cameras.

Lensbaby composer. Effect lens.

CF card recommendations: Sandisk, Extreme, Just make sure your cam has firmware 1.2.5 installed. If not, install it.

I use an intervalometer I bought on ebay for £20. Works. Can't say much else about it.

For your timelapse its worth getting a lens with a mechanical iris, such as a m42 type with an EOS converter, something like a 28 or 35mm lens would be quite flexible, and as it's a prime, should be optically ok.

Timelapse on an EF or EFs lens requires the lens to be used wide open, or to stop down every exposure, and there are sometimes very minute variations on the lens stop down, even at a set aperture, causing flicker. A mechanical iris lens gets round this. M42 lenses also avoid any complications with back focus etc. Cheap too.

You'll also want an ND filter, perhaps even a variable, though you would only want to use this on moderate focul lengths. Timelapse works best if you introduce some shutter drag/motion blur, meaning a longer exposure. In daylight this will not be possible unless you have additional filtration on the lens. A variable ND, whilst not always optically the absolute best solution, is at least very flexible.

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Canon Telephoto Lenses?

Marco Scal

I need a decent zoom lens for my Canon t5i. It MUST be under a foot long in its furthest form. Money really isn't a problem but i don't want to spend more then 1,000 but 1,500 would be okay depending on the lens. If it is an L series lens that would be great! It will mainly be used for sports and wildlife.

On a different note i am also looking for a portrait lens. It must preform good in low light. For this one i have a budget of 300-$700. It doesn't have to be made by Canon but it would be better if it was. I am open to any suggestions so feel free to say whatever. Thanks in advance!

Answer
Telephoto zoom: the Canon EF 100-400 F/4.5-5.6 falls top end of your budget.
Portrait - EF 50mm f/1.4 is a superb protrait lens.

the lens that comes with the canon rebel XTI is not really good?Could i just get the body with the 50 mm lens

doubleupri

do I need the standard lens?

Answer
Funny, somebody asked this 2 days ago about the 450D...
My answer then and my answer now is that the 50mm is terrible as a walk around lens on a cropped sensor. It´s nice for portraits, but not recommended as your only lens.
Get the 18-55mm zoom. It´s a consumer grade zoom that will do nicely unless/ until you can afford to jump to the $500 mark. In that case get the Canon 17-85mm zoom or the Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8. (Or if you want bling-a-ding pro results, save up for the +$1000 Canon 17-55mm f/2.8)
The 50mm f/1.8 does indeed have marginally better image quality than the 18-55mm zoom, but the 50mm will only be useful for 5% of your intended shots.

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How to choose a DSLR Camera Lenses?

V L

I have a Nikon D40 DSLR, If I want to make great pictures to small objects what I need to know for choosing the right lenses, because there are several lenses on sale over the internet, some of them are cheap and some very expensive, what is the basic guide? is the optics quality? thanks for your help

Answer
Basic guideline is to stick with the original manufacturers lenses. So in the case of your Nikon, that means Nikon-Nikkor lenses. Nikon once regarded it's primary line of lenses are professional lenses and only gave special designations to their "cheaper" consumer grade lenses. That is no longer a hard and fast rule. Still you will not exceed Nikon optical quality with Tokina, Sigma or any other non-OEM brand of lens.

As for choosing the right lens, that's largely determined by how you'll use the lens and your budget. For small objects shot close up, you are generally talking about macro photography with lenses that allow very short minimum focus distances of only a few inches in most cases. Nikon gives their macro lenses a "micro" designation. At present, Nikon only offers four lenses with such a designation and the cheapest of them at $450 is their 60mm f/2.8D AF Micro Nikkor lens. This actually is a very good macro lens for your D40. The bad news is this lens will not autofocus on a D40 because D40s do not have a built-in autofocus motor like older and higher-end Nikon bodies such as the discontinued D70/70s or current D90. Thats not really a problem since most macro photography involves manual focus anyway.

The only Nikon lens meant for macro photography that will autofocus on a D40 at this time is the Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR lens. This is also a very good lens but, you may find the 105mm focal length to be a bit too tight and depth of field will be practically non-existent. You can often use other lenses for macro photography but some lenses have fairly long minimum focusing distances that can make macro photography difficult at best.

What kind of DSLR camera is suitable for a beginner photographer?

Eric

Should I go for a new camera or a used one?

Also, what can't a beginner's DSLR camera do? (Eg compared to a camera for an experience pro photographer)?

Thanks!

Answer
DSLR's on the market offer about the same fetures across the board. the difference between a $400 canon 1000d, anon 500D and let's say a 7d is very fine tuned.

The 1000d is the beginner camera from canon. it will allow you to swap out the lenses, utilize manual aperture value, time value, and program modes. also it has a limited selection of automatice modes.

Other more important features such as shutter control, color schemes, and iso options are more limited on this camera.

And example of the iso ratings. the canon 1000d goes up to 1600 I belive, and from what I've seen ISO800 and 1600 on this camera are really unusable. the 500D has the ability to go up to 12,800 and is mostly usable to 6,400 due to it's integraded iso reduction ability, something the lower end models don't have. what does this mean to you? well night shots or low light indoor photography will be more detailed, shprer and have less noise than the cheaper model.

Another thing to look at is the megapixel resolution. The 1000d and most other nikon beginner models, have about 10MP for their picture quality. while the 500d has a 15.1mp sensor. and the 7d has an 18mp counter. this shouldn't come as a suprise, the more you pay, the better your picture quality becomes.

The included kit lens for the 1000d opposed to the 500d as opposed to the 7d are all representitive of the build quality of the camera. the 1000d and 500d both have a basic 18-55mm lens, but the 500d's lens has a better feal to it than the 1000d. the zoom ring is slightly smoother and the auto focus is considerably faster.

The 7d has a very nice 28-135mm zoom lens. it has some features found on more expensive lenses, like a non moving lens focusing ring, and zoom ring. the zoom is even more fine tuned than the other kit lenses and more of the lense is made of metal as opposed to the plastic found on the other kit lenses.

Now comes the issue of video. both the 500d and 7d have hd video recording. the 7d records 1080p at 30fps while the 500d does it in 20fps. the 1000d does not have any video recording at all.

And finally there's build construction. you would expect a $400 camera not to be as well built as an $800 or $1600 camera and you'd be right. the 1000d is cheap and plasticy. the 500d is about the same weight but has a little more solid feal. the 7d is considerably heavier and is ruberized nearly all around it. plus more expensive cameras like the 7d are weather sealed meaning mositure will not permiate the camera if it's raining. you don't find that on the cheaper models.

There are many many more differences between all the dslr types, but it all comes down to how much you are willing to pay for your camera. I would suggest not buying a cheap intro dslr from either canon or nikon, instead look at the more expensive cameras like the 500d or 50d from canon or the d5000 from nikon, whichever one can meat your price point, that would be the one that can work for you now, and the one you can grow with later.

Hope this helps

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DSLR camera lenses?

kajunprinc

i know different lenses create different photos. but which lense is a good all around lense that you can use for many projects? so i dont have to use 5 lenses on a shoot, only one good one. please! doesnt matter which brand or anything. thanks!
im an aspiring photographer, and will be getting a dslr very soon. i dont want to have to go out and buy many lenses at first, i just need one good lense (for now) to get the job done nicely. also i am thinking about buying the nikon d60 or d80.... which would be better? any suggestions?

Answer
Right now the 18-200 mm seems to be one of the favorites (based upon sales in any case).

For my general shooting the 24-70 mm f/2.8 is the best for me. I use it for over 80% of my assignments. The 12-24 mm is perfect for landscapes and architecture. And the 70-200 mm f 2.8 is good for general action, field sports and action like motocross and 4x4 adventures in the mud.

The other lens I use a lot, but is specific to sports photography is the nearly $7,000 400 mm f/2.8.

Eventually as your client list gets larger and your assignments become diverse, you will eventually end up with about ten lenses. If you end up in any kind of advertising work, you may find yourself behind a medium format camera like a Mamiya or Hasselblad ... even a 4x5 view camera ... but time and your clients will influence that more than your personal choice

EDIT:

We have been changing lenses for decades and as long as you don't change the lenses in a dust storm, you don't have to worry much about dust. I have been shooting digital SLR's for just over six years and only twice have I had dust get on my sensor ... Both with swirling dust present, one at an air show an the other at the sand drags.

Besides I think most of the new DSLR's have some sort of dust removal system incorporated within the cameras now ... I know my new ones do.

How to choose a DSLR Camera Lenses?

V L

I have a Nikon D40 DSLR, If I want to make great pictures to small objects what I need to know for choosing the right lenses, because there are several lenses on sale over the internet, some of them are cheap and some very expensive, what is the basic guide? is the optics quality? thanks for your help

Answer
Basic guideline is to stick with the original manufacturers lenses. So in the case of your Nikon, that means Nikon-Nikkor lenses. Nikon once regarded it's primary line of lenses are professional lenses and only gave special designations to their "cheaper" consumer grade lenses. That is no longer a hard and fast rule. Still you will not exceed Nikon optical quality with Tokina, Sigma or any other non-OEM brand of lens.

As for choosing the right lens, that's largely determined by how you'll use the lens and your budget. For small objects shot close up, you are generally talking about macro photography with lenses that allow very short minimum focus distances of only a few inches in most cases. Nikon gives their macro lenses a "micro" designation. At present, Nikon only offers four lenses with such a designation and the cheapest of them at $450 is their 60mm f/2.8D AF Micro Nikkor lens. This actually is a very good macro lens for your D40. The bad news is this lens will not autofocus on a D40 because D40s do not have a built-in autofocus motor like older and higher-end Nikon bodies such as the discontinued D70/70s or current D90. Thats not really a problem since most macro photography involves manual focus anyway.

The only Nikon lens meant for macro photography that will autofocus on a D40 at this time is the Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR lens. This is also a very good lens but, you may find the 105mm focal length to be a bit too tight and depth of field will be practically non-existent. You can often use other lenses for macro photography but some lenses have fairly long minimum focusing distances that can make macro photography difficult at best.

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breathing on camera lens?

is breathing on the camera lens then wiping it with a microfiber cloth (towel like) be harmful to your camera lens?....i dont want to just wipe it alone with the cloth because last time i did that, i heard a "squeak!".....but i heard that breathing on the lens then wiping it gently in a circular motion works....and the lens cleaner left fog and streaks so maybe breathing doesnt?

Answer
If you are trying to clean your camera lens, you are suppose to get rid of all the dust first, in order to not scratch the lens; you could use some sort of brush that also blows air, and then you could clean it with the lens cleaner solution, and the cloth. Breathing on the camera lens is not that harmful, but overtime, you could be getting some mold inside the lens, due to humidity; but that is over a long time. you should buy a camera lens protector filter.

How to clean your camera lens?

Jenn Stew

How do you clean a canon t2i kit lens? I accidentally smudged it and I tried using a lens cleanser for laptops and glasses but it didnt work. I tried using a cloth but it sitll didnt work. Any ideas?

Answer
You clean a Canon T2i kit lens the same way you clean all other photographic lenses. You can use:

1--A quality bulb blower like Giottos
2--Anti-static brush, LensPen or simple paint brush
3--Micro fiber or 100% cotton lens cleaning cloth
4--The fog of your breath

First use the bulb blower to blow off any loose particles that may be on the lens and could scratch the glass when it is wiped down. Be sure you got everything using the brush, particularly around the filter ring, moreso than the glass itself. Brush out any little bits that may have gotten trapped around the diameter of the lens barrel and could scratch the glass if dragged over it with the cleaning cloth.

Then, gently breathe onto the glass, being careful not to spit on it. The goal is to fog the glass and provide a thin, even lubrication for the cloth to both slide on and wipe debris into. Next be sure your micro-fiber or 100% cotton cloth is perfectly clean and wipe the damp lens in a circular motion. Do not press hard onto the glass, just let the cloth glide on the condensation. Repeat as necessary but go slow and gently with the entire process. Do not scrub the glass.

If the smudge still does not completely come off, you can use a liquid that is made specifically for cleaning photographic lenses only. Apply it to the cloth and never to the lens directly.

If none of this works, you should take the lens to a repair shop rather than continue trying to tackle it on your own. While cleaning lenses may appear simple enough, it is extraordinarily easy to leave fine scratches all over the front element of your lens in attempt to clean it. For this reason, it is important not to over-clean your lenses. Blow them off from time to time but avoid contacting anything with the glass whenever possible.

Some will tell you to use a UV filter to protect the glass. I prefer not to have optical aberrations in my images that unnecessary filters cause. I don't put filters on any of my lenses and simply care for them with the instructions above (even my very expensive Leica lenses.) If you want to protect your lens, use a hood as these should nearly always be used anyway and they can actually increase, rather than degrade image quality while providing nearly as much protection.

Be careful, take your time and good luck!

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