Ashley
I want to be able to take a fast action picture with my Canon rebel xsi. I know i need to use a fast shutter speed but what do i do if the lighting is dim?
Answer
You have a few different issues you have to confront.
1) Action photography requires shutter speeds of at least 1/500th second.
2) If you are shooting inside like a NBA game, you will need to balance the cost of a fast lens (f/2.8 or faster) and the image noise that can be the result of shooting at high ISO's
Since most sports venues do not allow uncontrolled flash exposures (in other words, on camera flash units), you have only your skills as a sports photographer and the equipment you have.
In your case, set your camera to the aperture priority mode with your lens set to its widest opening and the ISO on the camera cranked up as high as it can go. With your camera in this configuration, take some test shots. Look for the highest shutter speed available under the exiting lighting and the amount of noise created at the high ISO.
You can enhance an image file to reduce the amount of noise apparent in the image with a program like Noise Ninja (a plug-in for Photoshop), but you cannot repair images that show any blur caused by camera or subject movement. The whole shoot is a balancing act when shooting action or sports indoors.
The one thing on your side is the images captured rarely are printed any larger that 4x6 inches in a magazine or sports newspaper and when posted on the Internet are usually an image that is 600x400 pixels @ 72 DPI
NOTE:
* Remember to set your white balance to match the lighting in the sports venue.
* Once you have determined the optimum shutter speed, ISO and aperture, use your camera in the manual mode at those settings. Why? 1) The camera will not have to take any time to determine the correct exposure each time you press the shutter release and 2) you can do this because the lighting in professional sports venues is very even.
You have a few different issues you have to confront.
1) Action photography requires shutter speeds of at least 1/500th second.
2) If you are shooting inside like a NBA game, you will need to balance the cost of a fast lens (f/2.8 or faster) and the image noise that can be the result of shooting at high ISO's
Since most sports venues do not allow uncontrolled flash exposures (in other words, on camera flash units), you have only your skills as a sports photographer and the equipment you have.
In your case, set your camera to the aperture priority mode with your lens set to its widest opening and the ISO on the camera cranked up as high as it can go. With your camera in this configuration, take some test shots. Look for the highest shutter speed available under the exiting lighting and the amount of noise created at the high ISO.
You can enhance an image file to reduce the amount of noise apparent in the image with a program like Noise Ninja (a plug-in for Photoshop), but you cannot repair images that show any blur caused by camera or subject movement. The whole shoot is a balancing act when shooting action or sports indoors.
The one thing on your side is the images captured rarely are printed any larger that 4x6 inches in a magazine or sports newspaper and when posted on the Internet are usually an image that is 600x400 pixels @ 72 DPI
NOTE:
* Remember to set your white balance to match the lighting in the sports venue.
* Once you have determined the optimum shutter speed, ISO and aperture, use your camera in the manual mode at those settings. Why? 1) The camera will not have to take any time to determine the correct exposure each time you press the shutter release and 2) you can do this because the lighting in professional sports venues is very even.
Opinions on Olympus dSLR?
Jae
What is your opinion on them?
Build?
Quality?
Reliability?
Answer
I have now or have owned Olympus 35mm SLR and Digital SLR cameras. Currently, two E1's and an E3 plus a number of OM 35mm bodies and lenses.
Previously Olympus E500 (Sold it to raise $$ for the E3).
All of these cameras have been extremely well built.
I have dropped an E1 with lens and smashed the lens beyond repair but I mounted a different lens and kept on shooting.
Lens quality is excellent:
Olympus makes three grades of lenses - Standard, High Grade and Super High Grade.
Their standard grade (economy) lenses that are usually sold in "kits" are some of the best available budget lenses and continually get higher ratings than most other lenses.
Now I mostly use the High Grade lenses (because they are brighter optics and have dust/water seals to help protect against harsh conditions which explains the significant cost difference) and they optics are outstanding!
I have rented Super High Grade lenses for specific situations and they are amazing! I have two of these on my "wish list".
All the camera bodies I have used were also very well made. Most have metal (aluminum) or titanium bodies covered with molded plastic or rubber.
Reliability ~ I had the one serviced because the shutter was sometimes sticking and it was repaired under warranty only cost was shipping charge to get it to them. Prompt courteous service.
My only complaints are on E3 some controls are a bit too easy to knock out of adjustment and I find it easy to dislodge eye cup and viewfinder attachments. A bit of tape takes care of that.
HTH. Email if you need more details.
Here are some images i have posted on Flickr.
Most 35mm images on this are scanned slides from Minolta SRT cameras that predate OM.
Most digital images are from Oly E1, E3 or E500
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robs-photo-memory/sets/
I have now or have owned Olympus 35mm SLR and Digital SLR cameras. Currently, two E1's and an E3 plus a number of OM 35mm bodies and lenses.
Previously Olympus E500 (Sold it to raise $$ for the E3).
All of these cameras have been extremely well built.
I have dropped an E1 with lens and smashed the lens beyond repair but I mounted a different lens and kept on shooting.
Lens quality is excellent:
Olympus makes three grades of lenses - Standard, High Grade and Super High Grade.
Their standard grade (economy) lenses that are usually sold in "kits" are some of the best available budget lenses and continually get higher ratings than most other lenses.
Now I mostly use the High Grade lenses (because they are brighter optics and have dust/water seals to help protect against harsh conditions which explains the significant cost difference) and they optics are outstanding!
I have rented Super High Grade lenses for specific situations and they are amazing! I have two of these on my "wish list".
All the camera bodies I have used were also very well made. Most have metal (aluminum) or titanium bodies covered with molded plastic or rubber.
Reliability ~ I had the one serviced because the shutter was sometimes sticking and it was repaired under warranty only cost was shipping charge to get it to them. Prompt courteous service.
My only complaints are on E3 some controls are a bit too easy to knock out of adjustment and I find it easy to dislodge eye cup and viewfinder attachments. A bit of tape takes care of that.
HTH. Email if you need more details.
Here are some images i have posted on Flickr.
Most 35mm images on this are scanned slides from Minolta SRT cameras that predate OM.
Most digital images are from Oly E1, E3 or E500
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robs-photo-memory/sets/
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