Can somebody explain basic DSLR terminology to me?

Burninrock

I recently purchased a Nikon D3000 DSLR. And I want to use it to it's full advantage along with understanding what I'm doing. So can you explain the basic terminology to me? Particularly what i'm looking at on the screen.

http://dpinterface.com/reviews/nikon-d3000/nikon-d3000-autorotate.jpg
(^^ best example I could find of my screen on the web)

Also, I have recently become aware that the depth of field is determined by the lens speed. However, I have no clue about how to "read" or analyze lens specs. So could somebody give me an explanation to these things? Thanks!

Answer
OK I'll tell you a few things about those icons and numbers on your camera's display.

Up there it says A. A means Aperture priority mode. Aperture is the hole in the lens through which lens passes and hits the sensor. In A (read aperture priority mode), you select how much light you want to come into your camera and your camera will automatically choose the right shutter speed to compensate. The shutter is a physical shutter (!) in front of the sensor and it opens and closes. When it opens, light hits the sensor. The duration that the shutter is open is known as shutter speed. Here, your shutter speed is 1/500. Meaning that the sensor will be exposed to light only for 1/500th of a second (which is very very very fast).

[894] means that you can take 894 photos before running out of memory.

Your flash is off.

Your exposure compensation is set on 0.0.

Flash compensation is 0.0 too.

Qual means the quality of the photo and it's divided into 2 parts: L and NORM. Norm means that the quality of your images will be normal (some cameras have fine, normal, basic, extra, etc). L means large, i.e. the size of your image will be large.

ISO Hi1 is your ISO. ISO is the sensitivity of your camera's sensor to light. The higher the number (100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, Hi1=6400, Hi2=12800), the more sensitive the sensor to light. But the more sensitive the sensor, the more noise your photos will have.

Your autofocus is on center.

WB is set on AUTO. WB is the temperature of your photos.

Your Metering is set on Evaluative/Matrix.

Those squares on each other means that you are in continuous shooting. As long as you hold the shutter release button, the camera will continue taking photos.

AF-S means that the lens mounted to the camera is an AF-S type of lens.

I gave you the very basic information about those icons and numbers. Read the manual and you'll learn everything about them in detail.

BTW, the depth of field is determined by aperture, focal length and your distance to the subject.

You can Google all these terms and learn more about them or watch videos about them on YouTube.

Whats the difference between these two cameras?

itsmebekah

Whats the difference between a cannon dslr camera (t3) and a cannon power shot digital camera? Other than the price? I am looking to get a cannon camera, but im a total newbie with cameras and i need your help.... All i know is one is $550 and one is $350... Thanks!

Answer
The DSLR has a lot larger sensor (over 10 times as large) and can capture more light. More light means better low light performance.

And just as important, the lens is immensely better on a DSLR. Not only in it's light gathering capability, but also its optical clarity, quality, and having fewer defects (all lenses do have some defects though).

And there are a lot of other highly advanced features in the typical DSLR that no compact camera has; full manual exposure capability, FIFO buffer (results in low shutter delay), a real shutter (electro-mechanical), phase-detect focusing, but to name a few. They are too numerous to mention - so go to a camera shop and have them explain the features.

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Can someone explain DSLR lenses to me?

Elizabeth

Can someone please give me a crash course on lenses? I recently just bought a Nikon d40x and have the basic [18-55mm] kit lens, but I want to upgrade on lenses so I can get better picture results.

Say if I wanted to get a 50mm 1.4 lens... what do those numbers mean? I really need some help and understanding.. I mainly want to do portraits.. but i'd still like a lens that isn't limited to just portraits too.

Also, What would be the best lens for me to get next?


Thanks!

Answer
TBH, you don't need a crash course on lenses, you need to learn more about the basics of photography.

The lens you have is absolutely fine for a heck of a lot of photography and getting a different lens will not get better picture results except in certain circumstances. For instance shooting sport or wildlife where a long lens is required.

Without meaning to be rude, you obviously know nothing about the basics such as exposure (you wouldn't ask about the f stop if you did) so the best thing you can do is go to your local library or book shop and get hold of a couple of basic photography books.

This will guide you through the basics of the camera, lenses, exposure, light, composition etc.

Alternatively - here is a search on "photography basics", have a look through them.
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=photography+basics+tutorial&meta=&aq=0&oq=photography+basics

I am not having a go at you for asking the question but it is a bit like learning to drive. You need to know the basics of what to do and how to do it before you think about buying a Ferrari.
You are likely to get answers on here which go into too much technical detail and that is not actually going to do you any good initially.

have fun learning though.

a

How to set up and use a Canon 650D digital camera?

Geb

How can I set up a new Canon 650D digital camera and what are suitable hardware and software that I could buy to use with the camera to view, edit and print my photographs.
Also explain how to set it up and maintain it.

Answer
Explain how to set up and maintain the Canon DSLR. Tells me that you bought a DSLR because everybody on this site told you too. Now you are faced with how to operate the darn thing. Simply put you bought more camera than you should have. Well the only thing is to make the best of it.

LETS ADDRESS YOUR QUESTIONS FIRST:
1.You should not get into editing beyond the simple cropping that processors offer for now, you have enough on your plate. I always use a store in my community for most of my pictures.. I do not go into their store except to "pick-up" my order. I use their web site to crop, & order my prints. I don't like putting my memory card into machines that have been abused by every "Tom, Dick & Harry!"
COMPUTER UPLOADING: buy & use a memory card reader ($6.00) instead of the camera to computer cord that drives people nuts.
2. Hardware; there is no hardware to buy now or ever. If you are referring to lenses, you do not have the experience now to go out and spend money on lenses that YOU really don't have a need for yet.
SOFTWARE: you should have connected your camera to your computer for any up dates to your camera, when you first got your camera. Make this a once a year project. When I connected my camera, the web site updated the cameras software so I could use the (then) new SDHC memory cards.
3. Set the camera up and maintain it. Starting backwards unless you use some other size battery you should get yourself about 3 sets of double "A" rechargeable batteries. The best brand are Eneloop. Buy together with a battery charger is the most economical way. If you have a different size battery buy two extras batteries, or at least one. Keep batteries charged , what ever size you use.
4. NECK STRAP- Yahoo does not like it when I use capitals all the time BUT this is perhaps the most important thing you can do. Always wear the neck strap. You drop this camera, be warned-dropping is NOT covered under warranty! The camera belongs in two places only, around your neck or in the gadget bag! Not carry by it's strap in your hands (like that blasted Nikon commercial implies!)
5.Auto setting, most people who own DLSR's recommend against using the "Auto" setting. But I recommend YOU use it until you become familiar with your camera.

I also recommend you invest in some easy to read books by Scot Kelby. He writes in a very easy to read style. I have a few because at first digital was foreign to me coming from a film environment.
The really nice thing about his books beyond the understanding factor is his web site. He often refers you to his web site to make visual presentations easier to understand! This is a real plus for me.
And while we are on the subject of reading you should check amazon for a good book on your model camera. Instruction books are often hard to read because it seems they do not employ "tech" writers anymore and you are left with what is left.

That is enough on your plate!

Good Luck

P.S. I just read "Jim A's" advise on the manual. He is correct but I take it one step further. I download and PRINT the manual, leaving out simple things I already know like putting batteries in the camera etc. I take the remaining pages to a large place like Staples and have them cut and spiral bind the rest. I carry this home made manual with me should I encounter a situation I am not familiar with.
All this editing and preparing also enhances my knowledge of the camera and I find I have less & less to refer to. And while I am on my soapbox, get your backside out there and shoot and shoot. Experience is the best teacher!

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macro lens advice for nikon camera?

I Shot My

hello people!
i have recently bought a nikon D5100 and i would like some advice on macro/micro lens for it.
it must be an af s lens, and i was hoping not to spend more than 400 usd, but i can increase the budget if it's really worth it. i would mainly use it to snap shots at insects and small critters in general.
All advice is welcome, and if you could link personal pictures or stuff from the web as examples all the better!
Thanks in advance!

Answer
Hi So much....,

If you want to do "true" Macro Photography, which is usually defined as 1:1 or greater magnification, you have a number of options but make sure you understand that this is highly technical and demanding area of photography.

At magnifications of 1:1 (Life size on the film or sensor) there is very limited depth of field so focus must be VERY precise and, because the range of sharp focus is very short it is tricky to get background detail in focus when you wish. For this reason such things as extension tube sets, extension bellows and lens reversing rings often require manual focusing and "focusing rails" that allow the camera and close up apparatus to be moved on a geared track mounted on a tripod. Such set ups are also likely to require a semi-automatic exposure method because it is technically difficult to automate the exposure function in the lens with these devices.

The great advantage to extension tubes comes from the fact that they have no optical components. This means they are less complex and simpler to manufacture, therefore costing less and not compromising optical quality. They simply shift the focusing range of the lens to nearer objects. Many manufacturers make special extensions tubes (usually a single tube with electronic couplings) that work with a number of lenses and preserve auto-focus and all or most exposure metering modes. The drawback to tubes is that focusing is shifted closer to the camera and the lens will no longer be able to focus on more distant objects. Here is a detailed explanation of extension tubes and sample photos -

http://www.shutterfreaks.com/Tips/ExtensionTube.htm

On the other hand, if your are primarily interested in getting good close ups of insects and want a flexible tool for images at about 1/2 life size or less some of the so called "macro zoom lenses" are a good alternative. These usually do not achieve 1:1 magnification but you can expect about 1/2 life size and it will be easier to get sharp focus, background detail and automatic exposure operation. The advantage to using this type of lens is that they incorporate a design to allow the lens to focus much closer than normal and, especially if they are an appropriate focal length such as a moderate telephoto, they give a convenient working distance to avoid disturbing, or worse provoking, subjects such as wasps, spiders or other undesirable creatures.

Unfortunately these require complex and therefore often expensive optical systems. For the purposes you describe and your price range I think you will get the best results with a used or refurbished Nikkor lens in the 40~60 mm range. Here is a link to one of the best deals I could find.

http://www.adorama.com/NK4028UR.html

Hope that helps. Good luck. Email me if I can be of any further help.

Can I use Canon Lens on a Nikon Camera?

pandababy

Or other kinds of lens? not just canon?

Answer
No. Zeiss makes some lenses for Nikons, although they are manual focus.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/zeiss/nikon.htm


You can use Nikon "G" lenses on Canon EOS cameras

http://www.16-9.net/nikon_g/

Canon cameras have a shorter distance between the lens flange and film plane than Nikon so, there are a couple of millimeters into which an adaptor can fit; so as you can see going the other direction is impossible.

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Which lens for indoor/kids/low light & outdoor cloudy w/ Canon dslr?

Karla

Looking to invest in an additional lens or 2 for younger children photos indoors & hoping to limit my flash use. Also, I am assuming I'll need a different lens for gloomy outdoor shots? Getting a dslr300 flash w/ diffuser to help. Amy suggestions? Thanks!

Answer
A "fast" lens is needed when you want to limit the flash. The lower the f/stop number, the "faster" a lens is by allowing more light into the camera...f/2.8 and lower are considered "fast" lenses.

To help explain it, here are some full stop f-numbers, each one allows twice as much light as the one after it (or half the light if you you go the other way)...

f/1.4f/2 f/2.8 f /4 f/5.6 f/8 f/11 f/16 ....f/1.4 is twice as big as f/2, which is twice as big as f/2.8, which is twice as big as f/4, and so on. Therefore, f/1.4 is 128 times larger than f/16.


For example....

with the 18-55m f/3.5-5.6 "kit" lens...zoomed out the maximum aperture is f/3.5, and zoomed in it is only f/5.6.

Compare that to 17-55mm f/2.8... the maximum aperture is f/2.8 throughout the range. The f/2.8 lets in almost twice as much light as the f/3.5 and 4 times as much as f/5.6

If you had a lens that was f/1.4 (like the 50mm f/1.4). The f/1.4 lets in about 6 times more light than f/3.5 and 16 times as much as the f/5.6




Now, for lens recommendations, I tend to use the 50mm f/1.4, 85mm f/1.8, and the 70-200mm f/2.8. But even then, sometimes a fill light/bounce flash is required (and I ALWAYS use a diffuser on the flash)

what is the best walk around/portrait canon L lens for the 50d? I mostly take pics of kids!!?

Kitty

My camera is about 2yrs. old and I mostly take pictures of kids but I do both indoors and outdoors.......I have read numerous reviews and even called Canon to ask their recommendation
24-105mm f/4
24-70mm f/2.8
I don't understand the difference between f/2 or 4 and all reviews seem to say something different!!! I know what end result I am looking for---sharp crisp images without hours of editing which I haven't totally learned yet either!
One more thing.....my daughter is very sensitive to light and squints before the flash if she is expecting it!!
Please HELP!!!
I do thank everyone for their wisdom and time! We live in a VERY small rural area so really internet classes are my only option, our local library is very small as well so not much to pick from! I do agree that I need to learn all I can on my own to totally understand.......I'm trying!

Answer
Let me first say that L-series lenses do not take inherently better photographs and most people can't tell the difference between images shot with L verus non-L lenses. These are great lenses but, it may not be necessary to spend so much money to get the results you want. FWIW; between the two, the 24-105L is significantly lighter and easier to walk around with. It also covers a wider range of focal lengths than the 24-70L and is image stabilized. Having said that, the 24-70L shows less distortion at its wide end and is one stop faster. You've already mentioned you don't understand this key difference so I'll cover that.

The difference between f/2.8 and f/4 is one stop of light. In practical terms, this can mean the difference between a blurry shot at 1/30th of a second and a relatively sharp shot at 1/60th of a second. It might also means the difference between a realtive clean shot at ISO 800 (@f/2.8) or a noisy shot at ISO 1600 (@f/4). Those are the simplest examples to illustrate what 1-stop means but the bottom line is that if you don't already fully understand this, you are about to spend a great deal of money on a lens that by itself, will not improve your images.

Another note, your 50D is a 1.6x crop body. In simple terms this means your field of view with either of the lenses you've asked about will be fairly narrow and not necessarily ideal as a walk around lens but, they'll be just fine for portraits. The 50D and similar Canon cameras are typically sold with with 18-55mm or 17-85mm lenses that are nearly perfect as walk around/portrait lenses for 1.6x crop bodies. Alternately, the 50D was sometimes sold with a 28-135mm lens which was designed for 35mm film and full-frame digital cameras. Most people find the 28--135mm lens really isn't wide enough when they are out, walking around and may opt to replace it with an 18-200mm super zoom for that allows them to do almost everything with just one lens.

If you are seriously considering spending the money to buy a 24-70L or 24-105L for your 50D but don't plan to upgrade to a full-frame camera like a 5D/5DmkII, two additional lenses you should also consider are the EF-s 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM and EF-s 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM. These are not "L" lenses because that designation is exclusive to full-frame Canon lenses but, they are as good a any L as far as optical quality is concerned. The difference is that EF-s lenses are designed specifically for 1.6x crop-bodies like your 50D with smaller sensors. When I shot the 40D (almost identical to the 50D, just a year older), my walk around/portrait lens that said on my camera almost all the time was the EF-s 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM.

One final note, your daughter is likely blinking because of the pre-flash that tells her to expect the main flash. Consider half-pressing the shutter to focus/meter and then waiting a second or two before you actually take the picture. If you don't already have one, also consider a shoe-mount flash like the 430EXII.

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Which Canon lens should I get for video?

Mark

Hi.
I want to shoot videos of my singing/piano - I have a Canon 550D/t21 Rebel - and wanted to know what kind of lens I should get. Heres an example video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9o64xyjGWA
I've been trying to achieve that sort of visual - but I don't think I can get it with the lens that comes with the camera. Please help :)

Answer
You need a lens with a small depth of field, which is for example ( f/1.8 ) or (f/2.8) etc you see when you look at a lens's name. (lower the better)

best bet is the canon 50mm f/1.8, which is extremely good value for money.

however if your worried about the sound of a lens focusing you will need USM, Ultra Sonic Motor, which will make the focusing silent so you wont hear it in the video. Which you will have to pay more for.

Also with most decent lens with shallow depth of field, its fixed focial length which means you cannot zoom. (like the 50mm f/1.8)

Canon Ef 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM vs Tamron SP 70-300MM F/4-5.6 DI VC USD lens?

Chris

PRICE DOES NOT MATTER. I mainly want to figure out which one is better for Video but also some photography.

Pros for the Tarmon lens: internal focusing (so the ring doesn't turn), good focusing, focus ring closer to the camera, included lens hood.

Pros for the Canon lens: Better build Quality, 2 stabilization modes, zoom lock 1 second ago

Answer
The Canon has internal focusing and good focusing. Both of those are traits of the USM motor in the lens. The Tamron also has image stabilization as well, but their system is called Vibration Compensation (VC). Canon is the only manufacturer that use IS; Tamron use VC, Sigma use OS, Nikon use VR etc.

The Canon is the better lens. Tamron make good lenses, but their variable aperture zooms are quite cheap in both construction and performance. If you have the money, own brand will always be better. If you can afford Canon, always buy Canon. Third party lenses are good when you can't afford own brand.

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DSLR Cameras, recommendations?

Senor Me G

I would like to get any advice from more serious photographers out there who own a digital dslr, I am an aspiring photographer and I'm unsure what to look for in cameras. I could do the typical person thing of going on some electrical store website and looking up the more expencive cameras but I know that there are older models from Canon etc that are used by professional photographers as their number 1 choice. My price range would be around £200 (330 USD).

I am not necessarily looking for any extra features such as HD video filming (as most of the newer models seem to have) etc.

Any additional advice would be very welcome.

Answer
the most popular makes are Canon and Nikon. I will assume your gonna pick one between these 2.
people in these days talk a lot about the pros and cons about these 2 makes but honestly speaking, you can adjust the style and colour depth of your pictures within the camera settings so I dont think there is big differences.
so i will talk about it in real life.
a camera body wont cost much but good camera lens costs a lot. when i purchased my first dslr 4 years ago, my friends around me used Canon so i bought a Canon 350d, so that we can share all the lens we have and save a lot.
2nd point to be considered is, short range lens for canon is cheaper than nikon and long range lens for Canon like 70-200 F2.8 IS USM is more expensive than Nikon.
hope this could help you.

Camera recommendations?

Li

What would you recommend that you have used and been satisfied with, based on the following requirements?

-Clear, crisp images and colors, even in movement
-Something with a larger view (that could also be reduced) to capture a landscape for example
-No delay
-Great zoom
-Something that is automatic enough to adjust to various types of lighting for example but that also allows you to adjust settings manually for desired effects
-Price under $1000 if possible
-For personal and possibly professional photography
-Decent size and weight

Thank you.

Answer
The first three are easy. Buy a DSLR .. you can bright a great zoom as well as other lenses. Complete control and some automatic features are also available on DSLR's. You can get started with as little as $470 buying a Nikon D40 with 18-55 mm lens on Amazon. While the D40 is a good personal camera, the lenses can later be used when you eventually buy the professional D3 body.

Decent size and weight .. now that is where you will have to explain what you mean by that. Shooting professional assignments, the heavier the better. A heavy camera like the Nikon D3 or Canon 1Ds Mark III helps when shooting handheld exposures, its size can make it easier to hold and control.

Here is a link to the latest Nikon professional DSLR

http://www.rangefindermag.com/magazine/Feb08/108.pdf

http://www.jdpower.com/electronics/ratings/digital-camera-ratings/dslr

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Can Canon FL lens be use on Canon 30D or 7D?.?

Q. I just bought a Canon 50mm f1.4 Lens online and I found out it is for FL Camera. Can I use the lens on Canon 30D? Can it fit on it?

Answer
Nope.

If the seller did not tell you it was an FL lens, then you can send it back.

ONLY EF and EF-S lenses can be used on the Canon 30D or 7D.

Yes for a little over $100 you can buy an adapter to MAKE the lens fit, but 1) you cannot focus at long distances like infinity 2) you will have to manually focus the lens and 3) metering will be iffy.

http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/eosfaq/manual_focus_EOS.html

"you don't get any sort of automatic iris operation. In most SLRs, focusing is done at full aperture, and if you stop the lens down to, say, f11, it remains fully open until just before exposure, then it stops down for the exposure and opens up again. This gives a brighter viewfinder image and makes focusing easier and more accurate. When these lenses are mounted on an EOS body, stop down metering must be used. That means that the lens is first focused at full aperture (for maximum accuracy), then manually stopped down to the shooting aperture before the shot is taken" ... Bob Atkins

Lens for Canon 7d all types of photography?

Brandon R

Ok well i think i have a better idea of what i want to do with my lenses but not really sure on which ones to get I've tested out 70-200 f4 and love it but its a little long for my 7d i find my self having to be amazingly far back.

Lens i have

50 1.8
Helios 44/2 Manual
28 - 135 kit
Canon Fd 24mm
Pentax Super Takura 50 1.4

I have more vintage lens but they were kind of passed down to me i don't use them often im looking for something new that's fit for the camera without adapters and magnification aspects.

What im looking to do :
Portrait - Mostly Outdoor but would still like to be able to do indoor in tight spaces (Don't have a studio)

Wildlife Just birds, random animals

Landscape
I would like to get more abstract maybe a fish eye but that's a special purpose lens so im in no rush for something i don't think i'll make money off of .

As for lens quality /contrast/ color etc. What do you think would be adequate for me to get im not to hung up on prime vs zoom but im talking about crop factors etc as to what im trying to do with photography.

All comments welcome good or bad :)

Thank you
Well the helios i aquired because i like the bokeh affect of it kind of swirly nothing more nothing less the other manuals were "GIVEN" to me...i didnt buy them because i think they are better by any means. I stated i dont even use them. The 70-200 because of indoor work which i already stated on a crop sensor when i dont have a huge studio to work with.

Answer
There is no perfect lens for all types of photography. You just need to learn how to use the lenses you already have well, before you start wishing for the "perfect" lens that will do magic for you. It really doesn't work that way. What is good for portraits, usually isn't for landscapes. But the trick is, it is possible to use one lens to shoot every kind of photography you want to do. But you seem to me like one of those people who will sit on the internet and spend more time sifting through specifications and MTF charts searching for the perfect lens than actually taking pictures. You waste your time with vintage lenses, you think that manual focus makes you a more authentic photographer, which is nonsense. I've been a photographer for over 15 years, about to start my own business, and I would never choose a manual focus lens, in a different mount, because I read somewhere that they make better images. That's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. I use what works well, and quickly. I don't have time to manually focus on things, the focus screens of all DSLR's aren't meant to be used with manual focus lenses, so why use them? Because you're in your 50's and you have a bunch of lenses you used on manual focus cameras before I was even born, or because you read somewhere that they make you a cooler photographer? Because for the money you'll spend on 3 or 5 of these vintage lenses, you could just invest in a real lens, like an EF 35mm f/1.4L and use it for basically everything you just wrote that you like to do. Sure, it costs $1400. But it's a good lens. Canon doesn't make lenses like that so that inexperienced noobs can't get them (like they all believe...it's all a conspiracy or something stupid like that), no....they make them because people who know better understand why they need them. That's all.

The truth is, you can do whatever you want with the lens you got with the 7D you bought. At this point, you don't even understand how these lenses work enough to even know why you need one. For example, you've tested the 70-200 f/4L and you say you can't use it because it's too long. Really? It's a zoom with a constant aperture and has the best image quality of any other lens outside of canon's 70-200mm group. How is that not a good lens. Your problem is, you don't really understand how to use it because even on a crop frame, I can't say I'd say the same thing that you did....it isn't right for you because you have to be amazingly far back? How close do you need to be to something? There will never be a suitable lens to a person like you, my friend. You expect too much from them when the truth is, it's the photographer that is the most important part of any camera system.

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Using a Nikon Lens mount on sony NEX-3 camera?

QUNI

I'm looking into getting a Nikon lens for my Sony NEX-3. I know that I need a adapter to do this, but was wondering if the adapter only works for specific lenses. I'm looking at this one on ebay now: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190563861410&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_949.

Any recommendations for other lenses or help altogether would be nice! :) thanks.

Answer
The NEX has an excellent APS-C sensor and is designed for and ideal for use with other brand lenses. I have a inexpensive (~$30) adapter that I got on Ebay for Canon FD lenses, and I get wonderful photos. Among other things, I got an older Canon FD 50mm 1.4 for less than $50! In the latest release of the firmware, Sony has included peaking, which makes manual focus much, much easier (http://www.popphoto.com/news/2011/06/sony-firmware-update-brings-peaking-to-nex-3-and-nex-5). As others note, when you use other brand lenses, the camera does not "talk" to the lens and vice-versa. So while shutter speed can be automatic, aperture is not. You'll have to adjust that and focus manually--just like on older 35mm film cameras such as the Canon AE-1. Granted you'll being focusing manually, you'll want to get older lenses that are made to be focused manually. And to answer your question, you'll want to get an adapter that is made specifically for the type of lens you will get. For example, I have an adapter for Canon FD lenses. It does not work with non-FD Canon lenses. By the way, Sony does have a costly adapter that works with its non-NEX lenses. However, auto-focus is painfully slow (so slow that with a bit of practice you would easily be able to beat it manually). And finally, for excellent results, stick with OEM lenses such as Nikon, Canon, Olympus, etc. Tamron et al may be OK too. Cheap off brands, such as Vivitar, produce inferior results.

does this camera case include lens cover?

Paula Pere

im gonna buy soon a sony camera NEX 5N but i noticed it doesnt include a case, so im buying one too...but i dont know if it includes the lens jacket/protection so im not sure if i should buy it as well separately...could anybody help me?

Answer
most camera cases will at least hold the lens attached to the camera...

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Canon T3i Question, Sports Pictures?

Peter

i just got a canon t3i with a Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III Telephoto Zoom Lens

What are the best settings i can use for SPORTS

i know this lens is not the greatest with taking sports at night (of course with ligjt)

what can I do to take decent shots with no motion blur

Answer
Here is a shot taken at night.

http://s862.photobucket.com/albums/ab182/fotomanaz/Answers%20album/?action=view&current=i_AIA3008copy.jpg

ISO = 3200
Lens aperture = f/2.8
Shutter speed = 1/500th second

Your lens is two stops slower, which would make the shutter speed 1/125th second, difficult to stop action. If you boost the ISO to 6400, that will give you a shutter speed of 1/250th, maybe fast enough to shoot at the peak of action, but there will be some movement at the athletes extremities and of course you will have to deal with the noise later in post..

What is the best lens for my Canon rebel for action shots? Like football and basketball? I...?

Avery

...have some blurring now.
I use a 300mm zoom quite a bit for action, football, basketball, swimming and auto racing. But in the night football shots and basketball (indoors) I have quite a bit of blurring.

Answer
Hi. I'm relatively new at photography and I own a Canon 20D. I've learned everything I know from discussion groups, amazon's customer reviews, etc. The most helpful advice may be found here:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/

To date, this site has been my most helpful tool in learning about photogrpahy equipment. I'll usually check that site, then pick the suggested equipment, then go to Amazon.com to look up customer reviews.

You can't lose!

Also, if you're experiencing blur, you may consider a tripod.

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Is it possible to get a lens filter that works for my GE x500?

TurtleTech

Got this camera recently after seening phenomenal picture quality (and the design, which is great). Can I get a lens filter for this? What about an adaptor?

Answer
Did the camera come with a lens cap?

Just looking at the camera, I cannot see any filter threads on the lens, nor when the lens is withdrawn into the lens barrel when not in use is there enough extended lens to hold any kind of adapter.

Unless the user menu lists some filters as accessories, then probably not.

Usually one needs tp spend somewhat in the range of $300 before cameras have such features

which one should i choose? camera lens or filter?

adelia

This is for my canon 1000d. if i should buy the lens, what kind of lens i should choose? and IF i wanna buy those filter, well... there are lots to choose right? since filter got lots of types. so, should i go for the lens or filter? thanks. :D

Answer
Please don't go shopping just yet. You need to first learn the basics..... the VERY basics - starting with the difference between lenses and filters.

A lens is the bit you can NOT do without. They come in different focal lengths, different qualities and different "speeds" (i.e. the maximum possible aperture).

Filters are extras that screw onto the end of your lens. You don't HAVE to have any filters, although some are nice to have.

So, before you go shopping, start here:

Learn about your camera !!!!

Read your manual !!!! Read it several times, and practice in between.

Attend a class, read some books, read/watch online tutorials.

The major camera manufacturers (like Canon, Nikon, Olympus etc) all have very useful sections on their website for learning about photography.

http://www1.nikonusa.com/slrlearningcenter/index.php

http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/oima_learn_center.asp

http://www.usa.canon.com/dlc/controller?act=HomePageAct

http://www.webphotoschool.com/all_lessons/free_lessons/index.html

Understanding at least the basic principles of photography (as well as being familiar with your camera) will enable you to make the most of your gear, and will make a HUGE difference to your images.

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Are all Sony DSLR cameras Ø55?

James

I have been trying to find an answer to this but i am having some issues getting the answer. also if the lens mount is an "A-Mount" does that mean any "A-mount" lens will fit regardless of it's diameter (Ã)?

Thank you

Answer
No dSLR camera, Sony or otherwise is Ã55. Ã is the symbol used to indicate the diameter of the lens filter thread. Again, not all lenses, Sony or otherwise have 55mm filter threads.

Yes, any a-mount lens, Sony or Minolta will mount regardless of filter thread diameter.

The filter thread is at the front end of the lens. The mount is at the rear.

Best dslr camera????????????????

radonkeyko

I want to be able to take a picture like this http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RXICxIhdkLA/Tg3cTXfEnEI/AAAAAAAA0gA/IlNlJlc34_k/s1600/Beautiful_eyes_7.jpg so whats the best type of camera that can capture an image like this and can also capture video?

Answer
Any of the entry level DSLRs would keep you happy for a few years. I'd pick either Canon or Nikon. I have a LOT of contact with other photographers and time and time again it seems that either one of those are most likely to make their owners happy.

The most important part is to buy only the best lenses - camera bodies get upgraded, lenses stay with us.
You WILL regret buying cheap lenses.
Don't rush into buying lenses. Start with a kit lens, get to know your camera, that lens, and all photographic principles.
Through time and through use, you will eventually KNOW what other lenses you'll need/want.
The more time you'll take, the less likely you are to regret your choices.

If you know anyone close to you with a camera, consider borrowing lenses and "picking their brain" about their camera and whatever else they know.

Go to a store and hold a few cameras, see how they feel to YOU.

Keep in mind that buying a DSLR isn't cheap, even if you find a good deal for body and kit lens.

You'll also want and/or need a few other things such as tripod, filters, a bag, sensor cleaning gear, a second battery, memory cards, perhaps a remote shutter release etc.

That's just the small stuff - I can guarantee you that you'll also want more and more lenses.
You'll also want a decent flash some day.

See how that list just goes on and on?
Owning a DSLR isn't cheap - at least not until you have built up a nice stash of gear.

Just some food for thought........

Do lots of research before you buy, and start learning about photography, too.
The very best thing you can do for your photography is to attend a class and read a few books and tutorials. Having some knowledge will make a huge difference to your images.
I hope I have expressed this idea clearly enough: YOU need to learn about photography because even the world's best camera will take lousy shots in the hands of someone who has no clue how to use it.

P.S. any DSLR can capture a photo like the one you linked to, provide you have the right macro lens for it, the right lighting and YOU know what you're doing.

About video: Many still cameras have video functions, and especially the DSLRs with video produce decent enough results. However, if video is important to you, you are MUCH better off with a camcorder.
At this point in time, they still do a much better job (and are much more user-friendly) at video and audio recording than still cameras can.

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What type of Nikon Camera/Lens to buy?

Stephanie

I am looking for a nice Nikon camera to take pictures with. Probably the smallest Nikon that you can attach different lenses to & preferably one that doesn't weigh 100 pounds. I am also looking for a fisheye lens. Any recommendations? and If you have any, where to get them?

Answer
the smallest and lightest DSLR camera is the Nikon D3100

for fisheye lenses, the cheapest one I know of is a Rokinon fisheye lens for around $300
a good, quality fisheye lens will cost anywhere from $700-1500 or so

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/730210-REG/Nikon_25472_D3100_Digital_SLR_Camera.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/769466-REG/Rokinon_FE8M_N_8mm_Ultra_Wide_Angle.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/300487-USA/Nikon_2148_10_5mm_f_2_8G_ED_DX.html

What types of lens are compatible with Nikon DSLRs?

MHS619

I currently own a Canon, and I think it's plain and simple that as Rebel user I can attach EF and EF-S lenses and that FD mounts won't work without adapters that usually isn't worth the hassle.

I'm thinking about switching to Nikon but I'm looking around and I don't know what lenses are compatible to let's say a Nikon D5000. So far I feel like it's a lot more than just one or two types.
Okay is that in other words an "F" mount?
Or are there different terms with Nikon than Canon

Answer
All camera manufacturers use a proprietary lens mount.

Canon abandoned the FD lens mount for the EF lens mount when they introduced their 35mm auto focus SLR camera line around 1988. They continued using the EF lens mount when they introduced their first DSLR. In my opinion the introduction of the EF-S line of lower-priced lenses further confused things for Canon owners since the EF-S lenses can't be used on a Canon full-frame DSLR like the 5D or 1D.

Nikon introduced the F lens mount around 1960 and still uses it today on all their DSLR cameras. Nikon lenses labeled DX are designed for cropped sensor DSLRs like the D40, D60, D3000, D3100, D5000, D5100 and D7000. However, they can be used on Nikon full-frame DSLRs like the D700 and D3 but the image size will be the same as that of a cropped sensor DSLR. Nikon lenses labeled FX are designed for the full-frame DSLRs but can be used on the cropped sensor DSLR cameras with no problem.

Minolta introduced the world's first full-featured 35mm auto focus SLR, the Maxxum 7000, in 1985 but abandoned their leagcy SR lens mount for the A (aka Alpha) lens mount. When Sony bought the rights to the Konica-Minolta DSLR camera line they wisely kept the A lens mount. A Minolta Maxxum AF lens made in 1985 is right at home on a Sony DSLR.

Pentax introduced the K lens mount with the Pentax K1000 of 1975. The K lens mount is still used on Pentax DSLR cameras.

Olympus abandoned the OM lens mount for the 4/3 lens mount when they introduced their first DSLR cameras. They and Panasonic now use the Micro 4/3 lens mount for their lines of mirror-less cameras like the Olympus Pen series and the Panasonic G1.

So Nikon has the best backwards compatibility closely followed by Pentax and then Sony.

In my opinion you should keep your Canon and invest in EF lenses for it.

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what is the best low light camera lense for canon eos?

Skyler

I have a Canon EOS and am in desperate need of a low light lense and was just wondering what lense would be best for high quality low light pictures.

Answer
I think Tamron makes the same lens. I use a Tamron 18-200 and find it a fine lens.

Look here for details.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/

CAMERA LENS CANON HELP please (:?

Q. Could someone explain to me the two numbers for this lens?
I don't have it, I'm just using it as an example.
Canon EF-S 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 IS Lens

Could you explain the 18-55mm numbers?
What does 18 stand for?
What is 55mm?
Also, does the outcome of the photo differ with different cameras when using the same lens?

Answer
Hey,

Below 25mm - Pretty wide
Around 50mm - Normal
Above 85mm - Telephoto

The other numbers are aperture (lower number = bigger aperture = more light and vise versa).

However, here's a guide for yah. It teaches you all you need to know!

Here's a post called 'Buying a Lens for Canon - http://www.the-dslr-photographer.com/2009/11/buying-lens.html

The site has many more tutorials, tips, reviews and guides!

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Are their adapters for nikon lens to sony dslr cameras?

Jack

I recently purchased a Sony a57 dslr camera and I want to buy new lenses. The lens that I was looking at was a 55-200mm lens but they discontinued that certain lens for Sony. I looked around and found that Nikon has a lot more to offer in the lens department and they had the certain lens that I was looking for. So my question is if there is an adapter that allows Nikon to merge with Sony cameras?

Answer
Get the Sony 75-300 f/4.5-5.6 if you want a telephoto... better lens and costs less than the 55-200.

Or, as pointed out, look for Minolta auto focus lenses, which will work just fine on your camera. The 70-210 f/4 is an outstanding piece of glass, and cheaper than anything from Sony.

Help with finding the right dslr camera lens?

Jackie

I'm looking into buying my first dslr camera but I'm kind of confused on what kind of lens to get. I'm looking for something with a really good zoom and I know for a point and shoot camera I'd want something that is over a 20x Zoom so what would this equal to for a dslr lens? I hope this makes sense, I don't know much about dslr cameras.

Answer
The most common kit lens is 18-55mm
which translates to 55/18 = 3.05x zoom

Nikon makes a 18-300mm, which translates to 16.67x zoom
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/18-300mm.htm

A 300mm fixed focus lens means 0x zoom
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/3004af.htm

You are looking at proper DSLR's & they dont operate the same way as point & shoots

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Best Telephoto Canon Lens?

O Smart On

I really need a decent to nice telephoto lens for my Canon T1I since my Sigma 18-200mm non-OS doesn't really produce good images at 100mm+. I've been looking and would you guys recommend the Canon 55-250mm IS, 70-300mm IS non-DO, or the 70-200mm f/4 non-IS? My budget is around $800, but I would like to buy other lenses too. For instance, is the 55-250mm IS good enough? I've seen that it produces very decent images for it's price of $300, but would splashing out another $300 or $500 be worth it? Thanks.

Answer
The Canon "L" lenses are in another class. I had the same Sigma lens, and even if it covers a good focal range, it produced crappy pictures until I replaced it with a 70-200mm f/2.8 IS. Even though you are looking at the f/4 non-IS version, it still is the best of the ones you mention. Since you obviously have an eye for quality, that would be the one to go for.

Get some good reading here:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/Canon-L-Lens-Series.aspx

and some great reading here:
http://www.canon-europe.com/Support/Documents/digital_slr_educational_tools/en/ef_lens_work_iii_en.asp

Question about CANON lens ans SLR pricing?

Jimbo

I have my grandpas old canon to sell, It is a Canon rebel S SLR

along with a 50mm EF 1:1.8
a 80-200mm EF 4.5-5.6
and a tamron-f 2x tele-converter (2x c-af bbar mc7)

how much is each of these items worth individually and used?

Answer
It would sell much better as a kit, instead of piece by piece. Somewhere between $100 and $200 would reasonable. You can get $75-$90 for the 50mm EF lens all by itself if it is in good condition. All EF lenses are autofocus, both of those lenses will work on any current Canon camera, film or digital.

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What is the best all around lens for a Canon Rebel XT?

Clarkbar

Answer
Canon Lenses and Reviews

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/ (See "Recommendations" on this page)
http://www.photo.net/canon/#lense
http://www.wlcastleman.com/equip/reviews/index.htm
http://www.photozone.de/active/news/index.jsp
http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/index.html
http://www.fredmiranda.com
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/forum.asp?forum=1029

One of our devoted Canon users recommended the EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM (28-135 equiv.) (April 2007-$515) as a good "walk around" lens at a good price.
http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelDetailAct&fcategoryid=149&modelid=10511
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-S-17-85mm-f-4-5.6-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx

Not quite as much of a wide angle, the Canon Zoom Wide Angle-Telephoto EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM Autofocus Lens (2007-$1,060) is a pretty good all-around lens. This review says, "If I had only one lens, this would be the one."
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-24-105mm-f-4-L-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx

Excellent general purpose lens: Canon Zoom Wide Angle-Telephoto EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM Autofocus Lens (April 2007-$1,140)
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-24-70mm-f-2.8-L-USM-Lens-Review.aspx

As Karl W suggested, I really like my Nikon 17-55 and Canon makes a comparable lens, the Canon Zoom Super Wide Angle EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Autofocus Lens. It's not an "L" lens, but it seems popular.
http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/reviews/ef-s_17-55.html

what is the best all round lens for a canon rebel xt digital slr camera?

simon

Answer
Buying a lens should be based on what you like to photograph. It should also be considered an investment. A professional quality lens will, with reasonable care, last your liftime and perhaps even beyond.

Therefore, I caution against simply buying a lens based on someones recommendation. Decide what you like to shoot and base your buying decision on your needs.

If you really like macro photography then buy a true macro lens - not a zoom with the word "macro" as part of its description.

If you love sweeping landscapes then buy an ultra wide angle lens - and a good tripod.

If you like to photograph wildlife then buy a long focus length lens - 300mm, 400mm. Skip the zoom lenses and go for a fixed focal length.

If you like low-light, non-flash photography then buy a 50mm f1.4 lens.

ADMISSION OF PERSONAL BIAS:

I am NOT a fan of zoom lenses with a variable aperture. A lens that loses 1-1/3 stops, like the common f3.5-5.6 zooms, is just not satisfactory. Suppose you're in a situation where shooting "wide open" (f3.5 at 18mm, f5.6 at 200mm) is your only option. If your shutter speed is 1/160 sec. at f3.5, at f5.6 it will drop to 1/60 sec. Unacceptable.

So I suggest looking at constant aperture zooms and fixed focal length primes. I also suggest avoiding Canon's EF-S lenses since they cannot be used on their full-frame cameras like the 5D Mark II or the 1Ds Mark III - unless you're 100% certain that you'll never, ever want a full-frame camera.

I believe that full-frames cameras will be as affordable as your XT within a few years. It would be a shame to own 2 or 3 EF-S lenses and have to sell them (probably at a substantial loss) when you upgrade to a full-frame DSLR.

Remember, the first VHS Video Cassette Recorders (VCR) retailed for about $2,000.00 in 1972 and by 1986 you could buy one for $99.00 if you shopped around. I sold at Circuit City from '86 to '90.

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Canon vs. Nikon DSLR Camera?

mellowyell

Hey, I've been interested in buying a professional camera for quite some time now and I've decided now is the time. The problem is whether I should go with a Canon or a Nikon? And which Canon or Nikon. I've been in yearbook for three years and have learned the basics of photography, but I'm still considering myself a beginner, so if you could recommend a camera for beginners, that would be great. I've worked very very little with Canon and none with Nikon so please help me out here. Thanks in advance C:

P.S. I'll probably be using it to take pictures with my family and friends, college life, and overall, to pick up my photography hobby.

Answer
Canon and Nikon professional grade DSLR cameras start at about $3,000.00 for just a camera body - no lens included. Examples are the Nikon D600 and Canon 6D which are entry-level full-frame DSLR cameras.

So I'll guess that what you're wanting is more along the lines of an entry-level DSLR such as the Nikon D5200 or Canon T5i.

Here is my breakdown.

Nikon has used the same basic lens mount since 1959 or so. This means that just about any Nikon lens ever made can be used on their current DSLR cameras, with limitations, whether its a crop-sensor like the D5200 or a full-frame like the D600. Although Nikon currently offers two lines of lenses - one marked DX for crop-sensor models and the other marked FX for the full-frame models - a major consideration is that the DX lenses can be used on an FX body. The FX body will crop the full-frame sensor to the same size as a crop-sensor but at least your DX lenses can be used on an FX body.

Canon changed their lens mount in 1988 with the introduction of the EOS Rebel auto focus 35mm film cameras which used the new EF lens mount. Canon, therefore, has limited backwards compatibility. Canon, like Nikon, also offers two lines of lenses but with one major difference - Canon's economy lenses are marked EF-S and under no circumstances can they be used on a Canon full-frame DSLR (6D, 5D, 1D). So someone who invests in a Canon crop-sensor DSLR and 2 or 3 EF-S lenses will have to replace their lenses should they ever upgrade to a full-frame body.

So if your choices are between Nikon and Canon in my opinion Nikon has the advantage as far as backwards compatibility and allowing use of any Nikon lens you own whether it was designed for a crop-sensor or full-frame body.

Other cameras worth considering would be the Sony SLT A65 and the Pentax K-30. Both offer backwards compatibility comparable to that of Nikon and superior to Canon. The Pentax K-30 is currently the lowest-priced Weather Resistant (WR) DSLR on the market. WR means its safe to use the K-30 in the rain or in very dusty conditions. Take a comparably priced Sony, Nikon or Canon out in the rain and more likely than not you'll ruin the camera.

You can find reviews of every currently available DSLR at this site:
http://www.imaging-resource.com Reviews are lengthy and in-depth.

T-Mount Lens V. Regular Camera Lens?

McKenzie b

So I am looking to get a new lens for my camera. I don't have a whole lot of money so I was wondering how well T-Mount lenses work. Should I get one and try it out and spend less money or should i go with the standard SLR lens?

Answer
The T-mount lens is a regular camera lens. You only have to get the proper T-mount adapter to fit your camera. Since the T-mount was introduced decades ago, you will have to manually focus this lens and probably not have the lightmeter work for you. If you have a Pentax dSLR, you can still check exposure value in Manual mode.

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What is the best Canon Lens for doing wedding photography?

Looking for a lens that is good and affordable.
I want a lens that is way under $1,000.

Answer
The 24-70mm f/2,8L & the 70-200mm f/2,8L should cover all you really need, both lens cost above 1k.

If it's too much for you, you can look at third party lens that offer similar focal range.

I wouldn't bother with a wide angle lens for wedding photography, it's a nice add on if you already have a nice coverage, other than that it's just to wide to cover an entire wedding with that kind of focal.

What lens do I need for Canon xti to take good wedding pics ?

barrierman

I now have a 18-55mm and 300mm lens. Want one in between. What other acces. do I need ?

Answer
First off, your 300mm is pretty much not needed for weddings except possibly for an occasional unusual perspective. The 18-55 will be useful for candids and group shots, so that's fine.

Lighting in churches can be pretty bad and you may not be able to use flash, depending on the wishes of the couple and officiating clergy, so you should look at a fast standard zoom such as Canon's EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM. It's not cheap, but well worth the money when the light stinks. Your photos MUST be sharp, so consumer-quality zooms with variable aperture are a losing proposition. You will quickly find out that lens speed is worth the money.

Other things you probably need:
-- a top-quality flash such as Canon's 550EX with an external power supply. No one in the wedding party wants to wait while you change AA batteries. Down the line you may want to add a second flash, which is very useful for lighting setup shots and portraits.
-- a flash bracket and remote cord for the flash. Direct flash in the mark of the amateur.
-- a medium-weight tripod.
-- a relationship with a professional printer. The local Walgreen's won't cut it.
-- a second SLR body for the inevitable day your primary body dies during a wedding and to keep mounted with a second lens for quick shooting of candids. Your customers want photos, not excuses. If you can't afford it now, consider renting a second body on wedding days until you can afford another body. A one- or two-day rental is cheap insurance.

Those are the basics and more than you asked about. Good luck!

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