Jacob
I have a nikon D3000, which is dx, and i would like to know if i could use an fx lens on it
Answer
proshooter's answer might be confusing to you. You absolutely can use an FX lens on your camera. You will see EXACTLY what the image will look like in the viewfinder before you take the picture. His answer makes it sound like you will lose some of what you see in the viewfinder, but you won't.
Technically, he is correct. The FX lens throws a larger image circle, but the sensor only uses part of the potential image.
I use FX lenses on my DX camera almost every day. No problems.
proshooter's answer might be confusing to you. You absolutely can use an FX lens on your camera. You will see EXACTLY what the image will look like in the viewfinder before you take the picture. His answer makes it sound like you will lose some of what you see in the viewfinder, but you won't.
Technically, he is correct. The FX lens throws a larger image circle, but the sensor only uses part of the potential image.
I use FX lenses on my DX camera almost every day. No problems.
Which are the lenses MUST have for Nikon DX camera?
Rodolfo
Which are the lenses MUST have for Nikon DX camera? I want to see what your favorite lenses for the DX camera. Price doesn't matter at all but if you asked, then no more than 1,500 dollars.
Prime lenses?
Zoom lenses?
Fisheye lenses?
Wide-angle lenses?
Probably Micro lenses?
Addition, I'm getting Nikkor 50mm 1.8G and Sigma 70-200mm APO EX DG OS since I can't afford nikkor 70-200mm F2.8. Thanks!!
Answer
The lens selection depends on the DX camera you have. If you have an entry level camera (D3xxx, D5xxx, D40, D60) then you will want an AF-S lens. If you have an up-scale camera (D90, D7xxx, D300s, etc), one that has an internal focusing motor, then either AF-S or AF lenses will autofocus.
While the AF lenses are older, a few of them can still be purchased new, and they often present a great value. One example is the AF 80-200mm f/2.8. Nikon has kept this lens around as it has about the same quality as the AF-S 70-200, but at half the price. With the 80-200, you lose the AF-S focusing speed and VR, but for most situations this is not a problem. It remains to be seen whether Nikon will discontinue this lens in favor of the AF-S 70-200mm f/4.
I'll tell you which lenses I own, and for what reason. You can judge for yourself if your needs are similar.
Fast Sports Telephoto:
I own the afore-mentioned Nikon AF 80-200 f/2.8. I use it for a sports lens. The lens is around $1,200, and again, will not autofocus on Nikon entry level cameras.
Super wide angle/landscape:
I own a Tokina 11-16 f/2.8. The original lens did not have an autofocus motor, but recently Tokina introduced the 11-16mm f/2.8 DX2, which does have an internal focus motor, and will focus with an entry level camera. This lens is very good at photos of rooms in available light (f/2.8) as well as wide landscape vistas. The Dx (old version) of this lens is around $600, the Dx2 (autofocus motor version) is around $750.
Fisheye:
I have the Nikon AF 10.5mm f/2.8. For some reason, this is the only DX lens that Nikon has that does not have an internal focusing motor, meaning it will not autofocus on an entry-level camera. But you get what you pay for, and while this is a $700 lens, it is the best you can get for a Nikon DX camera.
Macro:
I actually own two Macros. The Nikon AF-S 40mm ($300) and Tokina AF 100mm ($500).
The Tokina is also a non-internal focus motor lens, so again, it will not autofocus on an entry level Nikon. But the Nikon AF-S 40mm will. The reason I own both lenses is DoF. At macro ranges, the DoF is wafer thin, and I use the 40mm when taking photos of flowers or inanimate objects, as you have to get pretty close. But the DoF is more favorable.
For bugs, I use the 100mm as it allows me to step back a bit. But due to the reduced DoF, I have to stop down the aperture to f/22 or less (the lens goes to f/64). This also requires the use of a macro flash even on a bright sunny day. A macro flash ($600 and up) is essential for 100mm, but you can get by without one with the 40mm focal lengths.
So, for general macro use, I go with the 40mm. For bugs, I bring out the 100mm and macro flash system.
Prime:
In addition to the 40 and 100mm macros, which are primes, I have a 50mm f/1.8. The cost of these lenses are so low that everyone should have one. The AF 50mm f/1.8 is around $120, and the AF-S 50mm f/1.8 is $200. Some like the 35mm for DX, but I still prefer the 50mm.
Telephoto:
Other than the 80-200mm f/2.8 I use for sports. I have a Tokina 80-400mm f/4.5~5.6 ($600) and Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5~5.6 ($570). I use the Nikon under most telephoto conditions, and I am considering selling the Tokina.
I also own a Nikon V1 with FT-1 adapter. This allows me to mount the Nikon AF-S 70-300mm on the V1. And with the 2.7 crop factor of the V1, I have an equivalent 190~810mm lens. The lens is fully functional on the V1, so it is my "long-reach" solution. Especially for travel, I can take my DSLR and V1 and use this lens with both cameras.
The V1, having a smaller sensor, does not have the performance of a DSLR, but it is far superior than the typical bridge compact camera.
Travel lens:
Finally, I have a Nikon AF-S 18-200mm f/3.5~5.6 ($800) that I use for travel. However this is a 12x lens, and like all super-zoom lenses, it does have some issues. It tends to be a bit soft in certain areas when used wide open. However, like most lenses, this improves as you stop down, and I have found that stopping down to f/8 clears up these issues.
The limitation of using this lens in the daylight (f/8) is an acceptable compromise for me when using this lens for travel, as I don't have to lug around a bunch of lenses.
Final thoughts:
This is my current lens farm. My camera is a Nikon D90, which is still a good performer. I will probably replace it in a year or two, but for now, it still meets my needs.
If you have noticed, about 80% of my investment is in lenses, not the camera. As an amateur, I have not done this all at once, but over a period of 8~10 years.
This I think is the best approach. Buy the minimum DSLR that will meet your needs, then focus on buying the best lenses you can. Finally, upgrade the DSLR after you have your lenses.
The lens selection depends on the DX camera you have. If you have an entry level camera (D3xxx, D5xxx, D40, D60) then you will want an AF-S lens. If you have an up-scale camera (D90, D7xxx, D300s, etc), one that has an internal focusing motor, then either AF-S or AF lenses will autofocus.
While the AF lenses are older, a few of them can still be purchased new, and they often present a great value. One example is the AF 80-200mm f/2.8. Nikon has kept this lens around as it has about the same quality as the AF-S 70-200, but at half the price. With the 80-200, you lose the AF-S focusing speed and VR, but for most situations this is not a problem. It remains to be seen whether Nikon will discontinue this lens in favor of the AF-S 70-200mm f/4.
I'll tell you which lenses I own, and for what reason. You can judge for yourself if your needs are similar.
Fast Sports Telephoto:
I own the afore-mentioned Nikon AF 80-200 f/2.8. I use it for a sports lens. The lens is around $1,200, and again, will not autofocus on Nikon entry level cameras.
Super wide angle/landscape:
I own a Tokina 11-16 f/2.8. The original lens did not have an autofocus motor, but recently Tokina introduced the 11-16mm f/2.8 DX2, which does have an internal focus motor, and will focus with an entry level camera. This lens is very good at photos of rooms in available light (f/2.8) as well as wide landscape vistas. The Dx (old version) of this lens is around $600, the Dx2 (autofocus motor version) is around $750.
Fisheye:
I have the Nikon AF 10.5mm f/2.8. For some reason, this is the only DX lens that Nikon has that does not have an internal focusing motor, meaning it will not autofocus on an entry-level camera. But you get what you pay for, and while this is a $700 lens, it is the best you can get for a Nikon DX camera.
Macro:
I actually own two Macros. The Nikon AF-S 40mm ($300) and Tokina AF 100mm ($500).
The Tokina is also a non-internal focus motor lens, so again, it will not autofocus on an entry level Nikon. But the Nikon AF-S 40mm will. The reason I own both lenses is DoF. At macro ranges, the DoF is wafer thin, and I use the 40mm when taking photos of flowers or inanimate objects, as you have to get pretty close. But the DoF is more favorable.
For bugs, I use the 100mm as it allows me to step back a bit. But due to the reduced DoF, I have to stop down the aperture to f/22 or less (the lens goes to f/64). This also requires the use of a macro flash even on a bright sunny day. A macro flash ($600 and up) is essential for 100mm, but you can get by without one with the 40mm focal lengths.
So, for general macro use, I go with the 40mm. For bugs, I bring out the 100mm and macro flash system.
Prime:
In addition to the 40 and 100mm macros, which are primes, I have a 50mm f/1.8. The cost of these lenses are so low that everyone should have one. The AF 50mm f/1.8 is around $120, and the AF-S 50mm f/1.8 is $200. Some like the 35mm for DX, but I still prefer the 50mm.
Telephoto:
Other than the 80-200mm f/2.8 I use for sports. I have a Tokina 80-400mm f/4.5~5.6 ($600) and Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5~5.6 ($570). I use the Nikon under most telephoto conditions, and I am considering selling the Tokina.
I also own a Nikon V1 with FT-1 adapter. This allows me to mount the Nikon AF-S 70-300mm on the V1. And with the 2.7 crop factor of the V1, I have an equivalent 190~810mm lens. The lens is fully functional on the V1, so it is my "long-reach" solution. Especially for travel, I can take my DSLR and V1 and use this lens with both cameras.
The V1, having a smaller sensor, does not have the performance of a DSLR, but it is far superior than the typical bridge compact camera.
Travel lens:
Finally, I have a Nikon AF-S 18-200mm f/3.5~5.6 ($800) that I use for travel. However this is a 12x lens, and like all super-zoom lenses, it does have some issues. It tends to be a bit soft in certain areas when used wide open. However, like most lenses, this improves as you stop down, and I have found that stopping down to f/8 clears up these issues.
The limitation of using this lens in the daylight (f/8) is an acceptable compromise for me when using this lens for travel, as I don't have to lug around a bunch of lenses.
Final thoughts:
This is my current lens farm. My camera is a Nikon D90, which is still a good performer. I will probably replace it in a year or two, but for now, it still meets my needs.
If you have noticed, about 80% of my investment is in lenses, not the camera. As an amateur, I have not done this all at once, but over a period of 8~10 years.
This I think is the best approach. Buy the minimum DSLR that will meet your needs, then focus on buying the best lenses you can. Finally, upgrade the DSLR after you have your lenses.
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