best nikon camera lens for sports image
Rick
I need a good mega zoom 10x or more optical zoom. I got nikon d40x but i can't bring that to sport venue only camera len that is under 3 inch.
Answer
Have a look at the Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ50. It's a very good little cam. Has enough zoom on it (not as much as a 15-20x superzoom like the DMC-FZ50, Sony Cybershot DSC-H50 or Olympus SP-570 UZ , but than again you can't bring the latter to a concert or sports event).
Have a look at the Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ50. It's a very good little cam. Has enough zoom on it (not as much as a 15-20x superzoom like the DMC-FZ50, Sony Cybershot DSC-H50 or Olympus SP-570 UZ , but than again you can't bring the latter to a concert or sports event).
How do I take clear action photographs using a Nikon D3000 camera.?
Pando
I currently purchased a Nikon D3000 camera and I have gone through the user's manual and video to figure out the best way to take clear action shots and I have been unsuccessful. I have the 18-55mm and 55-200mm lens but not sure what are the best settings on the camera to help me get the clear pictures I want. The pictures that I am taking are at dusk and at night in a football stadium where my son plays football. I have tried making adjustments but with no luck. I am feeling very frustrated since I am new to using these types of cameras. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Answer
Sports photography - especially in the evening - is the most demanding of equipment. So realize you may not get the best shots with your gear.
As everyone has said, you have to bump up your ISO to get enough light in, and which will allow you to increase your shutter speed enough to prevent blur from movement of your subjects.
Start out in Shutter Priority mode (S on the top dial of the camera), and set the shutter speed to 1/500th to start - but don't be afraid to try slower speeds, down to say around 1/125. You may find though that you have to go to higher shutter speeds than 1/500th to get the least blur. Then crank up the ISO until the camera tells you that your exposure is OK.
Next, put the camera into AF-C focusing (AF-Continuous), and finally Spot Focus and Exposure.
This will result in a single spot in the screen (a little black box) that tells you where the current focus is. Try to keep that spot on your intended subject as they move around.
Then when you get ready to take the photo, depress the shutter half-way down and keep it there as you follow your subject. By leaving the shutter half-way depressed (and in AF-C mode) the camera will constantly keep focusing on your subject (the part in the little black box).
Then when you are ready to take the photo - without lifting your finger from the half-way down position, depress the shutter all the way down to take the photo.
Try that and see if you have any improvement. This is going to take some practice on your part, so do so before the game if you can. Have your son or other family members run around in a parking lot at dusk with the lot lights on (or find a place where the lighting will be similar), and try different settings and see which ones work.
You are going to find that shutter priority, around 1/500th of a second with a ISO high enough to get a good exposure is probably going to be the best.
But when bumping up the ISO, the photo quality deteriorates. You can also try a monopod, which will help stabilize the camera (many sports venues will not allow tripods).
Also, Adobe Lightroom has a good noise reduction filter, so you can fix some noise problems by using a high ISO in editing. There is a limit to this however.
And if you can afford it, purchase a Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8. It is not cheap ($1.300) but a lot cheaper than the Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 ($2,400). This lens will let in 4 times more light than your 55-200mm lens will, which still may not be enough, but it will help a lot.
Also if you can upgrade your camera, you can get more light in from the improved sensors. But I would upgrade the lens first as it will give you more performance for the dollar than the camera.
Sports photography - especially in the evening - is the most demanding of equipment. So realize you may not get the best shots with your gear.
As everyone has said, you have to bump up your ISO to get enough light in, and which will allow you to increase your shutter speed enough to prevent blur from movement of your subjects.
Start out in Shutter Priority mode (S on the top dial of the camera), and set the shutter speed to 1/500th to start - but don't be afraid to try slower speeds, down to say around 1/125. You may find though that you have to go to higher shutter speeds than 1/500th to get the least blur. Then crank up the ISO until the camera tells you that your exposure is OK.
Next, put the camera into AF-C focusing (AF-Continuous), and finally Spot Focus and Exposure.
This will result in a single spot in the screen (a little black box) that tells you where the current focus is. Try to keep that spot on your intended subject as they move around.
Then when you get ready to take the photo, depress the shutter half-way down and keep it there as you follow your subject. By leaving the shutter half-way depressed (and in AF-C mode) the camera will constantly keep focusing on your subject (the part in the little black box).
Then when you are ready to take the photo - without lifting your finger from the half-way down position, depress the shutter all the way down to take the photo.
Try that and see if you have any improvement. This is going to take some practice on your part, so do so before the game if you can. Have your son or other family members run around in a parking lot at dusk with the lot lights on (or find a place where the lighting will be similar), and try different settings and see which ones work.
You are going to find that shutter priority, around 1/500th of a second with a ISO high enough to get a good exposure is probably going to be the best.
But when bumping up the ISO, the photo quality deteriorates. You can also try a monopod, which will help stabilize the camera (many sports venues will not allow tripods).
Also, Adobe Lightroom has a good noise reduction filter, so you can fix some noise problems by using a high ISO in editing. There is a limit to this however.
And if you can afford it, purchase a Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8. It is not cheap ($1.300) but a lot cheaper than the Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 ($2,400). This lens will let in 4 times more light than your 55-200mm lens will, which still may not be enough, but it will help a lot.
Also if you can upgrade your camera, you can get more light in from the improved sensors. But I would upgrade the lens first as it will give you more performance for the dollar than the camera.
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