alfredhitc
What are some things most people would think is good to clean thier camera lens with but isnt good?
Answer
First of all it's prudent to try to never have to clean your lens. I accept though that this is impossible with a P&S camera. However with an SLR you can buy a UV filter for the lens which will protect the lens for its entire life.
Secondly, when you do have to clean a lens, the first, most important thing to do is blow it clean with a blower brush. Simply setting about cleaning it with a cloth can cause all manner of problems. If there happens to be a little speck of sand or other abrasive material on the lens surface you could scratch the lens. Only after you blow it clean is it a good idea to start to use a cloth.
That said, I agree with Ben H in his recommendations. Methyl alcohol (available at most hardware stores) usually gets rid of most problems when a simple wipe of the micro fibre cloth doesn't work. Now don't coat the lens with the alcohol, if that stuff gets inside the lens it can also disolve some of the grease and cause the lens to jam. Instead place a drop or two in the middle of the lens and work outwards with your cloth in a circular motion.
His Windex comment is a bit unorthodox I'll admit and should be a "last resort" solution but it does work. I've not had a fungus problem so I can't comment if it works on fungus or not (though I suspect it does), however one problem I've had often comes from the seaside. I don't have a clue what the chemistry of the air is along the ocean but I've often found a real goo coating my UV filter. Trying to clean it dry doesn't work it simply smears things worse. Often alcohol also doesn't work, you're just smearing the goo around more.
In those situations I've found the Windex to work really well too. It seems to disolve that goo more thoroughly and leaves you with a lens in pristine condition once more. However, unlike my earlier advice, in this case you need a different technique.
First of all in this case you're trying to dissolve a coating of guck that accumulated from the air. A couple of drops isn't going to do that. I'd place several drops on the lens again making sure they stay in the middle and then I'd GENTLY work from the centre to the outside of the lens in a circular fashion. The stress is on Gently because you will have salt crystals mixed in with the goo that can scratch the lens. So what you're trying to do on the first pass is disolve them and get rid of them.
Keep in mind when you do this that you are also contaminating your cloth. If you use the same spot on the cloth in the next cleaning, you'll simply smear the goo back on the lens. So the second time you do this use a different part of the cloth or better yet, another cloth. Usually after three or four attempts the lens will come clean.
Once you've done that it's a good idea to thoroughly clean your cloth under warm running water to get rid of all the residue. Then hang it out to dry and when dry it's ready for the next time.
Another answer is to visit your local camera shop. Many still carry a lens cleaning fluid which usually works on lenses. The only problem is that this stuff is usually more expensive than the other solutions. On the positive side though if you bought a couple of those bottles, once they're empty you can use one for the alcohol and the other for the windex. This way you'll have these with you in your camera kit wherever you go.
I hope that helps a little.
First of all it's prudent to try to never have to clean your lens. I accept though that this is impossible with a P&S camera. However with an SLR you can buy a UV filter for the lens which will protect the lens for its entire life.
Secondly, when you do have to clean a lens, the first, most important thing to do is blow it clean with a blower brush. Simply setting about cleaning it with a cloth can cause all manner of problems. If there happens to be a little speck of sand or other abrasive material on the lens surface you could scratch the lens. Only after you blow it clean is it a good idea to start to use a cloth.
That said, I agree with Ben H in his recommendations. Methyl alcohol (available at most hardware stores) usually gets rid of most problems when a simple wipe of the micro fibre cloth doesn't work. Now don't coat the lens with the alcohol, if that stuff gets inside the lens it can also disolve some of the grease and cause the lens to jam. Instead place a drop or two in the middle of the lens and work outwards with your cloth in a circular motion.
His Windex comment is a bit unorthodox I'll admit and should be a "last resort" solution but it does work. I've not had a fungus problem so I can't comment if it works on fungus or not (though I suspect it does), however one problem I've had often comes from the seaside. I don't have a clue what the chemistry of the air is along the ocean but I've often found a real goo coating my UV filter. Trying to clean it dry doesn't work it simply smears things worse. Often alcohol also doesn't work, you're just smearing the goo around more.
In those situations I've found the Windex to work really well too. It seems to disolve that goo more thoroughly and leaves you with a lens in pristine condition once more. However, unlike my earlier advice, in this case you need a different technique.
First of all in this case you're trying to dissolve a coating of guck that accumulated from the air. A couple of drops isn't going to do that. I'd place several drops on the lens again making sure they stay in the middle and then I'd GENTLY work from the centre to the outside of the lens in a circular fashion. The stress is on Gently because you will have salt crystals mixed in with the goo that can scratch the lens. So what you're trying to do on the first pass is disolve them and get rid of them.
Keep in mind when you do this that you are also contaminating your cloth. If you use the same spot on the cloth in the next cleaning, you'll simply smear the goo back on the lens. So the second time you do this use a different part of the cloth or better yet, another cloth. Usually after three or four attempts the lens will come clean.
Once you've done that it's a good idea to thoroughly clean your cloth under warm running water to get rid of all the residue. Then hang it out to dry and when dry it's ready for the next time.
Another answer is to visit your local camera shop. Many still carry a lens cleaning fluid which usually works on lenses. The only problem is that this stuff is usually more expensive than the other solutions. On the positive side though if you bought a couple of those bottles, once they're empty you can use one for the alcohol and the other for the windex. This way you'll have these with you in your camera kit wherever you go.
I hope that helps a little.
all SLR cameras lens i want to understand?
XDXD
i want to know if all SLR brands can be used the same lens or different ones etc. like a Nikon lens on a canon camera or vice visa or other brands
thats A LOT of money you think anyone has made an extra extension to be place on lets say a canon camera and the extension is allowed to have any lens? because that would be very interesting product to buy
Answer
All camera manufacturers use a proprietary lens mount. Canon lenses for Canon, Nikon lenses for Nikon, Sony lenses for Sony, Penax lenses for Pentax, Olympus lenses for Olympus. The exceptions are Samsung and Fuji. Fuji DSLRs are built using a Nikon chassis and lens mount. Samsung DSLRs are built using a Pentax chassis and lens mount. Sony uses the Minolta Maxxum A-mount that dates back to 1985.
There are adapters that allow you to use a Nikon lens on a Canon or a Minolta SR (manual focus) mount lens on a Sony or Canon or Pentax or Olympus. The problem with adapters is that you have to use the lens in stop-down metering and manual focus. (Each camera requires a separate adapter).
The Tamron "Adaptall" adapters use the M42 screw mount on the lens and an adapter designed for each camera body. With it you could have a Pentax body and a Canon body and use the same lens on both cameras.
Minolta SR mount 250mm mirror lenses go for a premium on eBay and the word is they are being retrofitted with a Nikon mount. I've also seen a couple of SR mount lenses that have had the mount modified to mount to the Sony DSLR, supposedly with full metering.
All in all its still best to buy lenses designed for your camera.
All camera manufacturers use a proprietary lens mount. Canon lenses for Canon, Nikon lenses for Nikon, Sony lenses for Sony, Penax lenses for Pentax, Olympus lenses for Olympus. The exceptions are Samsung and Fuji. Fuji DSLRs are built using a Nikon chassis and lens mount. Samsung DSLRs are built using a Pentax chassis and lens mount. Sony uses the Minolta Maxxum A-mount that dates back to 1985.
There are adapters that allow you to use a Nikon lens on a Canon or a Minolta SR (manual focus) mount lens on a Sony or Canon or Pentax or Olympus. The problem with adapters is that you have to use the lens in stop-down metering and manual focus. (Each camera requires a separate adapter).
The Tamron "Adaptall" adapters use the M42 screw mount on the lens and an adapter designed for each camera body. With it you could have a Pentax body and a Canon body and use the same lens on both cameras.
Minolta SR mount 250mm mirror lenses go for a premium on eBay and the word is they are being retrofitted with a Nikon mount. I've also seen a couple of SR mount lenses that have had the mount modified to mount to the Sony DSLR, supposedly with full metering.
All in all its still best to buy lenses designed for your camera.
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