Please Let Me Choose The Best Lens For 60D?

Lot Lost K

I've Decided To Buy A DSLR Now, The Canon EOS 60D, And Its My First DSLR. But I'm Extremely Confused About Lenses. I Read Meny Articles, But Those Made Me More Confused.

I Shot Every Types Of Photos, Specially Macro, Landscape, Zoom. So I Might Need An All In One Lens, For Everyday Purpose.

After Many Research, I Decided To Buy These Lenses If I Don't Get Good Solution.

- Tamron 18-270mm
- Canon 50mm f/1.8

I Also Want To Take Another Lens But That Very Costly To Me, The Canon 15-85mm.

Please Suggest Me For Some Cheap Good All In One Lenses.

Also, Do I Need An External Flash?

Answer
At B&H the Canon 60D with the 18-135mm zoom lens is shown for $1,199.00 after a $100.00 "Instant Savings" from B&H that ends 6-30-2012. http://www.bhphotovideo.com

Since you're just starting out I strongly suggest buying the camera with the 18-135mm lens. You didn't mention sports or wildlife as interests so the 18-135mm zoom should be sufficient for your current needs. Spend the next 6 to 8 months learning to use your new camera and exploring the capabilities of the 18-135mm lens.

Other than a couple of memory cards the only additional accessories I'd suggest are these:

1) A UV filter to protect the front element of your lens.
2) A Circular Polarizer for your landscape photography. It darkens a blue sky and enhances colors. It also removes/reduces glare/reflections from glass, water, sand, snow and painted metal - but not polished metal.
3) A lens cloth to clean your filters.

NOTE: Buy quality filters such as B+W, Hoya, Heliopan or Tiffen. Buy them in a "thin" or "slim" mount to avoid any possible vignetting (dark corners on your pictures) when using the wide (18mm) end of your 18-135mm zoom.

You might want to consider adding a tripod to your shopping list especially if you do a lot of landscape photography. I consider a tripod mandatory for good landscapes.

Back when I bought my first 35mm SLR (July of 1971) the camera came with a 50mm f1.7 lens. There really weren't any quality zoom lenses back then. I used my camera and 50mm lens for well over a year before buying a second lens - a 24mm wide angle.

Wider lens adaptor for macro lens?

Alyssa

I have a Canon 5D Mark II and only have a fixed 100mm canon macro lens for it. I'm going on a trip soon and would like to be able to take pictures of landscapes and other wider shots. Is there such thing as a wide angle lens adaptor or something that I can attach to my macro lens? I'd rather not spend $1000+ on a new lens right now...

Answer
Any type of screw-on so-called "wide angle adapter" is a complete waste of money - not to mention the image degradation that it will cause. Your best option in my opinion is the Canon EF 17-40mm f4L USM zoom which will be ideal for landscapes and reasonably well-lit interiors. Its shown for $739.00 at B&H - http://www.bhphotovideo.com - after a $100.00 "Instant Savings" from B&H that ends 9-29-2012.

You'll also want a good tripod for your landscapes. If you don't have one then look at the Benro "Travel Angel" series. http://www.benrousa.com/main/

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Wider lens adaptor for macro lens?

Alyssa

I have a Canon 5D Mark II and only have a fixed 100mm canon macro lens for it. I'm going on a trip soon and would like to be able to take pictures of landscapes and other wider shots. Is there such thing as a wide angle lens adaptor or something that I can attach to my macro lens? I'd rather not spend $1000+ on a new lens right now...

Answer
Any type of screw-on so-called "wide angle adapter" is a complete waste of money - not to mention the image degradation that it will cause. Your best option in my opinion is the Canon EF 17-40mm f4L USM zoom which will be ideal for landscapes and reasonably well-lit interiors. Its shown for $739.00 at B&H - http://www.bhphotovideo.com - after a $100.00 "Instant Savings" from B&H that ends 9-29-2012.

You'll also want a good tripod for your landscapes. If you don't have one then look at the Benro "Travel Angel" series. http://www.benrousa.com/main/

Photographers, which is better, Nikon or Canon?

1Anonymous

I know the Canon 5D mark III is supposed to be the best camera out there and the Nikon D800 almost matches it, but I don't have 3000 dollars to spend.

So on a smaller, scale say 600-700 dollars,
would you say that the Nikon d3500 or the Canon T3 is better?
I like the 7- 9-blade diaphragm that Nikon offers opposed to the 6- 8- of Canon. But I hear that Nikon has too much magenta in their resolutions or too much yellow in the LCD.

Which has more aperture versatility and accurate shutter speed?

For outdoor/landscape, night, and long exposure photography, and natural looking portraits, which brand is better?

Any recommendations for models by each brand? Like, is it really worth it to get the T3i for such and such more dollars instead of the T3?

Thanks
Whoops- D3200

Answer
First, repeat this 100 times: "It isn't the camera its the photographer." Any DSLR in capable hands will produce good results. Your knowledge of Light, Composition, Exposure and Depth of Field and your skill in using that knowledge will determine the quality of the results.

A DSLR doesn't have "aperture versatility". That is a function of the lens. Nikon and Canon offer a wide variety of lenses with different maximum apertures. The T3 and D3200 both come with an 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 zoom lens. Both manufacturers offer a more expensive 17-55mm f2.8 zoom as an alternative to the standard 18-55mm zoom.

Since all DSLR shutters are electronically controlled its safe to say any make and model will have an accurate shutter speed.

Most beginner photographs use the 18-55mm zoom for outdoor photography. The 18mm end of the standard 18-55mm zoom is suitable for landscapes although anyone serious about landscape photography will eventually want an even wider lens (10mm, 12mm, etc.) and a good tripod.

Natural looking portraits are a result of the photographer's skill in using good lighting and posing techniques and in knowing what lens to use. The make and model of camera is irrelevant.

Long exposure photography requires a tripod and, if done during daylight hours, a Neutral Density (ND) filter.

The Canon T3 is their most basic entry-level DSLR. The Canon T4i when fitted with one of the two available Canon STM lenses (40mm and 18-135mm) will allow for auto focus during video. The T3, T2i and T3i don't have that feature/benefit.

The Sony SLT A65 allows for continuous, full-time, phase-detect auto focus whether you're shooting still images or full 1080p HD video with any AF lens in the Sony lineup. The Technical Image Press Association (TIPA) chose the A65 as their 2012 Top DSLR - Advanced.

The Pentax K-30 has a weather-sealed body and comes with a weather-sealed 18-55mm zoom lens. This makes it usable in the rain or in very dusty conditions that would damage the comparably priced models from Sony, Canon and Nikon.

At http://www.digital-slr-guide.com you can find comparisons of various makes and models of DSLR cameras. Compare them feature by feature.

You'll also find excellent reviews at http://www.imaging-resource.com and at http://www.dpreview.com

Ignore sites that only offer user reviews.

Visit a camera store and physically handle each make and model. One will just "feel" better as you handle it. If that particular models has all the features you want then its the one to buy.

Just remember this: "It isn't the camera its the photographer." It won't matter if you pay $500.00 or $5,000.00 for a camera if you aren't knowledgeable about Light, Composition, Exposure and Depth of Field and, through practice, skilled in their use you'll get the same results regardless of how much you pay for the camera.

Spend time at these sites:

LIGHT
http://photographyknowhow.com/quality-of-light-in-photography/
http://photographyknowhow.com/direction-of-light-in-photography/

COMPOSITION
http://www.photographmad.com/pages/view/10-top-photography-composition-rules

EXPOSURE
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/learning-exposure-in-digital-photography

DEPTH of FIELD
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-of-field.htm

City skyline: http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/4048051455/ ISO 200, 100mm lens @ f11, exposure for 30 seconds.

Landscape: http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/3529681412/

Photography is an on-going, never ending learning experience.

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Please Let Me Choose The Best Lens For 60D?

Lot Lost K

I've Decided To Buy A DSLR Now, The Canon EOS 60D, And Its My First DSLR. But I'm Extremely Confused About Lenses. I Read Meny Articles, But Those Made Me More Confused.

I Shot Every Types Of Photos, Specially Macro, Landscape, Zoom. So I Might Need An All In One Lens, For Everyday Purpose.

After Many Research, I Decided To Buy These Lenses If I Don't Get Good Solution.

- Tamron 18-270mm
- Canon 50mm f/1.8

I Also Want To Take Another Lens But That Very Costly To Me, The Canon 15-85mm.

Please Suggest Me For Some Cheap Good All In One Lenses.

Also, Do I Need An External Flash?

Answer
At B&H the Canon 60D with the 18-135mm zoom lens is shown for $1,199.00 after a $100.00 "Instant Savings" from B&H that ends 6-30-2012. http://www.bhphotovideo.com

Since you're just starting out I strongly suggest buying the camera with the 18-135mm lens. You didn't mention sports or wildlife as interests so the 18-135mm zoom should be sufficient for your current needs. Spend the next 6 to 8 months learning to use your new camera and exploring the capabilities of the 18-135mm lens.

Other than a couple of memory cards the only additional accessories I'd suggest are these:

1) A UV filter to protect the front element of your lens.
2) A Circular Polarizer for your landscape photography. It darkens a blue sky and enhances colors. It also removes/reduces glare/reflections from glass, water, sand, snow and painted metal - but not polished metal.
3) A lens cloth to clean your filters.

NOTE: Buy quality filters such as B+W, Hoya, Heliopan or Tiffen. Buy them in a "thin" or "slim" mount to avoid any possible vignetting (dark corners on your pictures) when using the wide (18mm) end of your 18-135mm zoom.

You might want to consider adding a tripod to your shopping list especially if you do a lot of landscape photography. I consider a tripod mandatory for good landscapes.

Back when I bought my first 35mm SLR (July of 1971) the camera came with a 50mm f1.7 lens. There really weren't any quality zoom lenses back then. I used my camera and 50mm lens for well over a year before buying a second lens - a 24mm wide angle.

Wider lens adaptor for macro lens?

Alyssa

I have a Canon 5D Mark II and only have a fixed 100mm canon macro lens for it. I'm going on a trip soon and would like to be able to take pictures of landscapes and other wider shots. Is there such thing as a wide angle lens adaptor or something that I can attach to my macro lens? I'd rather not spend $1000+ on a new lens right now...

Answer
Any type of screw-on so-called "wide angle adapter" is a complete waste of money - not to mention the image degradation that it will cause. Your best option in my opinion is the Canon EF 17-40mm f4L USM zoom which will be ideal for landscapes and reasonably well-lit interiors. Its shown for $739.00 at B&H - http://www.bhphotovideo.com - after a $100.00 "Instant Savings" from B&H that ends 9-29-2012.

You'll also want a good tripod for your landscapes. If you don't have one then look at the Benro "Travel Angel" series. http://www.benrousa.com/main/

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what kind of dslr should i get?

zodiac-sai

hi right now i am using a canon sx210 and i am 15 going into softmore year and i am taking photography and want to step up to a dslr... i like taking macro pictures animals cars and landscapes night and day... i have been looking at d3100 t3i t2i sony a33 sonny a35 sony a55... one thing that is also very important to me is the video quality which is why im leading towards the sony but idk how good there photo quality is compared to the others
under $800

Answer
The still-image quality of the Sonys are comparable to any D-SLR from Canon or Nikon at around the same price range for the individual camera. So, if you drop $800.00 on a Sony, you're going to get image quality practically equal to the image quality you'd get from a Canon or Nikon that also sells for around $800.00 - When it comes to image quality, the brand doesn't matter as long you stay within the same price range and stick to one of the reliable manufacturers: Nikon/Canon/Sony/Olympus/Pentax - one is just as good as another.

The sony AXX (A35, A55, for example) series, however, use a translucent mirror design - this is preferable for video. So, if video is really important to you, I'd say go with a Sony - it will offer you more control over your video work. For video quality and control out of a D-SLR, the other manufacturers can't yet compete with Sony's SLT series cameras. The trade off is the SLT design of the Sonys cause you to lose between one-third to a half a stop of light. So, when taking still images, the Sonys will perform just slightly less efficiently in low-light situations - you'll need to open up between 1/3 & 1/2 a stop to get the same exposure you would on non SLT camera. The SLT Sonys also use an electronic viewfinder - these have both advantages and disadvantages over optical viewfinders - so it's largely a matter of personal preference. But, if you're used to shooting though an optical viewfinder, they can take some getting used to - if you're used to shooting with live-view, it wont be a problem.

*** EDIT: To address George Washington below: (1) Canon and Nikon are no more or less "trustworthy" than Sony. And, Nikon and Canon users better hope that's true, as both Canon and Nikon USE SONY SENSORS in their cameras. (2) Everybody that knows anything about Cameras knows about Sony's full-frames - they were the first to introduce anti-shake on a full-frame sensor. Offered the highest resolution of any full-frame available when they were introduced. And, their full-frames still have the biggest and brightest viewfinder in the industry. Sony's full-frames rocked the D-SLR market when they were introduced. And, they're about to do it again, with a 36mp full-frame due for release in 2012. (3) The availability of relativley inexpensive, yet high-quality Sony lenses dwarfs both Nikon and Canon - AND EVERY SINGLE lens you put on a Sony is stabilized - EVERY SINGLE ONE. And, since every Minolta A-mount lens made by ANY manufacturer going as far back as 1986 will mount on a Sony - That's one HELL OF A LOT of stabilized glass available!!!! I'm sorry, no offense, but George Washington clearly has no idea what he's talking about.

And, regarding the claimed substandard performance of Sony's electronic viewfinders: From a review of the A77 @ Alphamount World: "I had my wife take a look through the viewfinder, she was unaware that the new cameras didnât have optical viewfinders. Sheâs owned her own KM7D for a few months now that has a very decent optical finder -so sheâs no stranger to using an optical finder. For the first minute or so, she just commented on how large the view was in the A77 and how much information was displayed. Then it hit her, and she asked me how the viewfinder auto dimmed and brightened on its own and how all that information was on the screen. It was then that I revealed to her that it was an electronic viewfinder, not an optical one.âWowâ she exclaimed. â.

Can you explain exposure time in photography to me?

Tommy

I've seen many night photos with a caption that says something like, 5 minutes exposure time, or 2 minutes, or 60 minutes, you get my point. My question is, what does that all mean? How do you set the exposure to a certain duration of time? Thanks in advance.

Answer
The longest night exposure I've made to date is 30 seconds. The exposure times you're mentioning are probably for star trails or perhaps a landscape lit by a full moon.

First and foremost you'll need a tripod and a locking remote release (we could suggest a remote IF we knew what camera you have). However, for exposures of 30 seconds or less you could use your camera's self-timer.

Second, for exposures longer than 30 seconds you'll have to place your shutter speed dial in the "B" (Bulb) position which will allow you to keep the shutter open as long as you want with the locking remote release.

Third, you'll need to turn the AF on lens and camera to "OFF" because the camera won't be able to focus on a dark scene.

Fourth, you'll need to check in the Owner's Manual for any precautions when making long exposures. Digital sensors heat up during long exposures. You'll also want to check for LNR - Long Exposure Noise Reduction.

Star Trails: http://www.danheller.com/star-trails

True astrophotography requires very expensive equipment but here are two methods for determining exposure time that (supposedly) prevent star trails.

"500 Rule" http://www.davidkinghamphotography.com/blog/2012/11/how-to-avoid-star-trails

This is just simple division. Divide 500 by the focal length of your lens and round that down and then divide it by the crop factor of your camera.

EX. 1: Sony, Pentax, Nikon with 1.5 crop factor. 500/18 = 27.7. Round down to 27. 27/1.5 = 18. So 18 seconds is your exposure time.

EX 2: Canon, 1.6 crop factor. 500/18 = 27.7, Round down to 27. 27/1.6 = 16.8. Round down to 16. So 16 seconds is your exposure time.

http://600rule.com Robert Howell Photography

Same principle except using 600.

EX 1: Sony, Pentax, Nikon. 600/18 = 33.3. Round down to 33. 33/1.5 = 22. So 22 seconds is your exposure time.

EX 2: Canon. 600/18 = 33.3. Round down to 33. 33/1.6 = 20.6. Round down to 20. 20/1.6 = 12.5. Round down to 12. So 12 seconds is your exposure time.

Here is where some experimentation is needed. I thoroughly read over both sites and didn't see any mention of ISO or Aperture to use. So if you're using the 18mm end of your zoom at f3.5 I'd say try ISO 800 and choose which "Rule" you prefer - 500 or 600. If your images are too dark at ISO 800 go to 1600. As I said, you'll have to experiment.

I also use and recommend this site for low-light exposures:
http://www.calculator.org/exposure.aspx I used ISO 200 and the Scene 'Distant view of city skyline or floodlit buildings' for these.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/4048051455/ 100mm @ f11, exposure of 30 seconds.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/4048796836/ 200mm @ f11, exposure of 30 seconds.

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