Should I buy the Canon 24mm f/1.4L USM for my 7d?

Isnogood

I like my 50 mm 1.4 and search for same or even better quality on a wider angle (24 x 1.6 = 38.4). In addition i plan to buy the Canon EF 100mm, f/2.8L Macro IS USM. I plan to buy full frame Canon in a few years.
I want to use the 24 mm for both, photo and video, and image quality is extremly important to me. I want to use it for street sceens, people and general imperssions ;-)..

Answer
Yes, a 24mm lens will wider than your 50mm lens, but mounted on a 1.6x crop camera, the angle of view is not very wide anymore. The first generation of the 24mm f/1.4L lens is said to have good performance in the center, but relatively poor performance in the corner until stopped down to at least f/5.6 To be fair, most of your subjects probably wont be located in the very corner of the image, so this may not matter to you. If you have even more money to burn, consider the mark II version of the same lens.

Personally, I probably wont find a 24mm f/1.4 lens on a crop sensor camera overly useful. It's not wide enough for architecture, while still nowhere close to telephoto. When you get your full frame camera, this lens will prove a lot more useful.

If I were you, for less money, I would probably purchase the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 ultra-wide lens, which will give me true wide angle, while still maintaining a relatively fast f/2.8 aperture.

What is the absolute best Canon lens for landscape photography?

Zaki I

Own a Canon 5D Mark III with a 24-105. Really looking to dive into landscape photography seeing as how when I had the 40D with the 17-55, loved it.

Given that, without budget restraints, what is the best Canon L series lens out there for landscape photography? I intend on using ND and Polarizing filters as well for some of my shots.

Thanks in advance.

Answer
On that camera
Zoom - Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8 L
Prime - Canon EF 20mm f/2.8 L or 24mm f/1.4 L

That said, your 24-105 on the full frame 5D includes the full focal length range of your 17-55 on the crop sensor 40D which would be equivalent to a 27-88 on full frame.

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Best lens for my camera?

Q. i dont really know that much about photography, but im learning..
i have a,
Canon Rebel XS ESO 1000D
& i want to buy a Fisheye lens ... help! .. what do i get?

Answer
Canon doesn't have a ultra-wide fisheye lens for 1.6x cropped cameras... the EF 15mm f/2.8 fisheye is designed for full-frame cameras... on cropped sensors it will work like a 24mm lens with strong distortion, instead of giving a circular image with a big angle of view, so it makes no sense using this lens on your camera.

The Sigma has some very-ultra-wide-angle fisheye lens, like the Sigma 4.5mm F2.8 EX DC HSM Circular Fisheye:
good news: the angle of view is 180°
bad news: price over $1000

But if you can work with a rectlinear (non-fisheye) ultra-wide lens, the Canon EF-S 10-22mm has a very good sharpness, very low distortion and low chromatic aberration. The built quality is not up to the price range, but the image quality is better than expected for the price. It will work like a 16-35mm lens on a 35mm camera.

Camera lens mumbo-jumbo! How the hell do I know what this means?

huvik

I'm buying a Nikon D60 (DSLR).
It comes with this lens:
18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens

What does that all even mean....
And how do I know what other lens I need to buy also?

I need to be able to shoot professional photos of ALL kinds (motion, nature, fashion/model, headshots, everything).
How do I know what kind of lens I need and what that one it comes with does?
mumbo-jumbo - funny word =]
Edwin, thanks for the info, but don't be an assho1e about it. Of course I'm not a professional; I simply want somewhat professional quality photos - there is a difference. No need to be a snob about it.
Thank you David M!
Great info, definitely helped.
I actually am going to take a digital photography class at my local community college, the problem is that I have to buy the camera beforehand!
Thanks, best answer as soon as it allows me.

Answer
Basically this is what it all means.
18-55mm is the focal length of the lens. You can zoom from 18mm wide angle to 55mm normal to slight telephoto.

F3.5-5.6 is the max aperture of the lens or the widest it will open up. At 18mm you have a max aperture of F3.5 at 55mm it is F5.6.

AF-s means that it is an autofocus lens that has a focusing motor in the lens. This is important because your camera does not have one in the body.

DX: I'm a Canon guy and I don't know what this means but it has got something to do with the model of lens.

VR means vibration reduction. This is the same as what Canon calls Image Stabilization. It basically helps compensate for camera shake.

You will know what lenses you need by what you need to shoot. This is a good lens and camera to start with but they are not at a professional level. If you want to shoot professionally you need to learn how to use everything and when to use it. You will also need to spend a considerable amount of money.

The following list of lenses is the size of the lenses you need for the situations you listed not the actual lens as there are many choices depending on your needs and budget.

Landscapes 12-24mm

Sports: 70-300 should get you started.

Fashion, model, and head shots: The lens you have should get you started. There are better faster lenses but you can figure that out later.

Nature: This will depend on what you are photographing. Wildlife you can use the 70-300. For close ups of flowers or bugs you will need a macro lens. There are several to choose from in different focal lengths so check out the specs on them if your interested.

I also suggest you take a class and learn how to use an SLR camera. You and your pictures will be happier for it. Check out camera shops in your area or a community college. Most offer beginner courses in photography.

Hope this helps

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What lens is good for Canon Rebel XT when it comes to action photography?

best canon 24mm lens image

jd88

I am new to the advanced photography world, and I just purchased Canon Rebel XT because it seems to be a great entry level camera with good features. I am mostly interested in taking photos of dogs at dog park and events, etc. I want to be able to take clear photos of them running around. What are the lenses that would fit my criteria? I would like something on the cheaper side that does the job. Thanks a lot!

Answer
I'll give you some criteria used in choosing a lens, and then suggest a few that I would use for this purpose.

1. Zoom or prime
Zoom lenses are lenses that cover multiple focal lengths. Prime lenses cover a single focal length. Zooms should NOT be confused with telephotos (lenses for shooting far away things), as telephotos can be either zoom or prime. Zooms give you greater flexibility, but primes offer superior image quality at a given price point. Primes are also available in larger apertures (see below).

2. Focal length
Remember that your DSLR is a "crop" sensor DSLR. This means that your sensor is significantly smaller than 35mm film, and only uses the center of the image circle created by a standard lens. The simplified result of this "crop effect" is that you need to multiply the focal length on the lens by 1.6 to get the effective length on your camera. (No, the lens doesn't magically change, but the crop will make you move YOUR position, which will change the perspective rendered by the lens.)

The classic ranges for 35mm film are (give or take)
14-24mm = Ultra Wide Angle
24mm-35mm = Wide angle
40mm-70mm = Normal Perspective
70mm-135mm = Short Telephoto/Portrait
135mm-299mm = Telephoto
300mm + = Supertelephoto.

So take the lens's focal length and multiply by 1.6 to figure out how the lens will work on YOUR camera.

Note that EF-S lenses are lenses designed for your reduced image circle. This doesn't mean that you gain any optical benefits (quite the opposite in most cases), but some of these reduced-circle lenses represent great values, or at the wide end (EF-S 10-22) offer perspectives not available in full-frame lenses.

3. Maximum Aperture
When you see a number like f/2.8 or f/4-5.6 on the side of a lens, it tells you the maximum aperture that the lens is capable of achieving. Larger apertures give you a few capabilities. They allow you to shoot in lower light without flash (more light coming in = faster shutter speed). This is VITAL for sports photography, or any situation where the subject is apt to be moving. Larger apertures also allow you to shoot shallow depth-of-field shots, where the background and foreground are blurred to isolate the subject. A larger aperture lens can be stopped down for more depth-of-field or slower shutter, but a "slower" lens cannot be opened up. Larger apertures also offer faster auto-focus (with a few exceptions), as lenses slower than f/2.8 disable some of the AF sensors on your camera.

4. IS
Some Canon lenses offer IS. IS is a gyroscopic device that lives in the back of the lens and tries to correct for lens movement. This is extremely useful when you are shooting hand-held, but still can be useful on a tripod or monopod (although some older lenses require that you disable IS on a tripod). IS is great for shooting STATIC subjects in low light, as it will allow you to use a slower shutter speed than you would otherwise be able to. Some IS lenses offer "pan mode" which will stabilize the lens vertically, but allow you to pan the lens horizontally (think racecars with the background blurring as they move). IS is almost useless for most sports, as the key issue is not camera movement, but getting a shutter fast enough to stop the subject's motion.

5. Little red rings
The Canon "L" series of lenses is the "L"uxury lineup of optics, and they all have a little red ring around the front. In reality, this designation has more to do with being designed for professionals than for use as a luxury item. The L series lenses are *typically* of higher optical quality AND build quality than their consumer grade cousins. For zooms in particular, there are VERY few offering really strong quality in the consumer lineup (EF-S 10-22, EF-S 17-50IS, 70-300IS being the most notable exceptions).

6. Third party lenses
Tamron, Sigma, Tokina.... people take sides on the "are third party lenses ok" debate as vehement as their stances on major political issues. In my experience, some third party lenses offer an excellent value for the money. That said, ALL lenses have a certain variation in quality between copies of identical lenses. Test 3 copies of a Canon 50mm 1.4 in the store, and you will likely see a difference in performance. This tends to be even more pronounced in 3rd party lenses! So I recommend that you only consider purchasing a 3rd party lens from one of the three manufacturers I listed, and only if you can test it in store, or if the store has a fair return policy.

There ARE other concerns when buying a lens, but this should be more than enough to get you started.

That said... for your stated purpose:
You need a focal length where you can shoot at a bit of a distance... so telephoto is where its at here. If it were me, I'd be looking at the EF85mm f/1.8 or EF100mm f/2 primes for a value option with this purpose. If you feel you need more reach, the EF200 f.2.8L is superb and value priced at about $500. If you decide that you need a zoom, the least expensive telezooms I recommend are the EF70-200 f/4L or the 70-300 f/4-5.6 IS. The non-IS 70-300 is not very well built and offers a different (and much inferior) optical design from its IS brother.

what if i upgrade to a full frame camera?

Jarrah G

i am looking at buying a tamron 10-24mm lens that is designed for a APS-C camera. so my question is, if i eventually upgrade a full frame 35mm camera (eg the cannon eos 5d) can i still use it, or will it have extreme vignetting.
thanks

Answer
The Tamron 10-24 isn't the worlds greatest lens, and you have hit on the DSLR dilemma, throw your lot in with cropped sensor or plan for a full frame future?

I had a brilliant sigma 10-20 (EF mount but DC -not full frame) which I sold for a sigma 12-24 (EF mount DG, full or cropped sensor) in anticipation of getting a 5D2.
Then canon launched the (in many ways superior) 7D (which I bought)

So I've now sold the 12-24, putting the cash towards a tokina 11-16, which I will sell if I go full frame in 2 years time. Kinda wish I'd kept the 10-20.

With third party lenses, they use the EF mount not the EF-s lens mount, so they will mount on a 5D, and should operate normally apart from the vignetting.

With a zoom lens this will dissapear after a certain focal length anyway.

A canon UWA such as the 10-22 will not mount on a full frame, and even if the mount is removed and adjusted to fit full frame, the rear element can still rattle off the mirror.

Upshot, from my experience. Buy lenses for what you shoot on now. Avoid the tamron, its a pig (www.photozone.de canon APS-C reviews) there are enough APS-C users for a used value later.

Don;t buy a full frame lens (the only UWA is the 12-24 sigma which has filtering dilemmas and is slow, and only equivalent to 20mm on your cropped sensor canon.

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What is the difference between these two lenses?

best canon 24mm lens image

WeAreOne

What are the differences between these two wide angle lenses? Im looking at:
a canon EF 24mm f/2.8 wide angle lens and a canon EF 35mm f/2 wide angle lens?
I am an amateur photographer and all my knowledge is self-taught, and I was wondering what the difference in the mm means and also the f stops?
And which one would you consider a greater performance to price ration, which one is the better wide angle lens?
Thanks all, sorry for the many questions.

Answer
it all depends on how you intend to use it.
What camera are you using it for?

I think of it in this way. The "MM" dictates how you might want to use it. the "f stop" will tell you how much light you need.

the 24mm, is wider. You can step closer. You'll see more than the 35mm. 24mm is often used for group portraits or landscapes. (Especially if you are shooting on a full frame camera; On a smaller format camera, it won't be very wide with the 1.6 crop factor) On a smaller format camera, the 35mm will not be wide.
However, for landscapes, I like to recommend the Canon 10-22mm EF-S lens. If you have the fullframe, the 16-35mm f/2.8 is a great performer, if you can afford it.

The f stops tell you how much light you need. Both lenses are very fast lenses. Just the 35mm f/2 is a little faster (by one stop). What this means is that, when the f/2.8 needs 1/120 seconds to produce the picture. The f/2 can do it in 1/250 seconds. If the f/2 needs 1/30 seconds to make the desired exposure, the f/2.8 needs 1/60.
When some people take pictures indoors in low light; this is very very important. It is also why some people spend a lot of money to purchase a f/1.0.
If you are shooting landscapes, such fast lenses are unneccessary, and dead weight.

What to do now?
- always get the best lens you can afford.
- both these are good lenses. decide how you want to use it.
- in what situations will i need it? low light? out door landscapes?
- try both lenses, see what you see through the viewfinder. Does it fit those needs?

What is the absolute best Canon lens for landscape photography?

Zaki I

Own a Canon 5D Mark III with a 24-105. Really looking to dive into landscape photography seeing as how when I had the 40D with the 17-55, loved it.

Given that, without budget restraints, what is the best Canon L series lens out there for landscape photography? I intend on using ND and Polarizing filters as well for some of my shots.

Thanks in advance.

Answer
On that camera
Zoom - Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8 L
Prime - Canon EF 20mm f/2.8 L or 24mm f/1.4 L

That said, your 24-105 on the full frame 5D includes the full focal length range of your 17-55 on the crop sensor 40D which would be equivalent to a 27-88 on full frame.

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What kind of lens should i use for skate video's on my t2i?

best canon 24mm lens image

cole c

I have a canon T2i, and the lens i have with it is a canon 50 mm 1.8. I want to start filming skate video's but the 1.8 has too much depth of field. I need a wide angle lens like the tokina 11-16 mm. But is very expensive, so i was wondering about the Canon 24mm f2.8. Should i get it or just go all out and get the tokina?

Answer
If you want to use DoF to isolate your subject from the background the 50mm f/1.8 will do a better job than the wide angle lenses. You need to consider hyperfocal distance http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/hyperfocal-distance.htm .

What is the difference between these two lenses?

WeAreOne

What are the differences between these two wide angle lenses? Im looking at:
a canon EF 24mm f/2.8 wide angle lens and a canon EF 35mm f/2 wide angle lens?
I am an amateur photographer and all my knowledge is self-taught, and I was wondering what the difference in the mm means and also the f stops?
And which one would you consider a greater performance to price ration, which one is the better wide angle lens?
Thanks all, sorry for the many questions.

Answer
it all depends on how you intend to use it.
What camera are you using it for?

I think of it in this way. The "MM" dictates how you might want to use it. the "f stop" will tell you how much light you need.

the 24mm, is wider. You can step closer. You'll see more than the 35mm. 24mm is often used for group portraits or landscapes. (Especially if you are shooting on a full frame camera; On a smaller format camera, it won't be very wide with the 1.6 crop factor) On a smaller format camera, the 35mm will not be wide.
However, for landscapes, I like to recommend the Canon 10-22mm EF-S lens. If you have the fullframe, the 16-35mm f/2.8 is a great performer, if you can afford it.

The f stops tell you how much light you need. Both lenses are very fast lenses. Just the 35mm f/2 is a little faster (by one stop). What this means is that, when the f/2.8 needs 1/120 seconds to produce the picture. The f/2 can do it in 1/250 seconds. If the f/2 needs 1/30 seconds to make the desired exposure, the f/2.8 needs 1/60.
When some people take pictures indoors in low light; this is very very important. It is also why some people spend a lot of money to purchase a f/1.0.
If you are shooting landscapes, such fast lenses are unneccessary, and dead weight.

What to do now?
- always get the best lens you can afford.
- both these are good lenses. decide how you want to use it.
- in what situations will i need it? low light? out door landscapes?
- try both lenses, see what you see through the viewfinder. Does it fit those needs?

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what if i upgrade to a full frame camera?

best canon 24mm lens image

Jarrah G

i am looking at buying a tamron 10-24mm lens that is designed for a APS-C camera. so my question is, if i eventually upgrade a full frame 35mm camera (eg the cannon eos 5d) can i still use it, or will it have extreme vignetting.
thanks

Answer
The Tamron 10-24 isn't the worlds greatest lens, and you have hit on the DSLR dilemma, throw your lot in with cropped sensor or plan for a full frame future?

I had a brilliant sigma 10-20 (EF mount but DC -not full frame) which I sold for a sigma 12-24 (EF mount DG, full or cropped sensor) in anticipation of getting a 5D2.
Then canon launched the (in many ways superior) 7D (which I bought)

So I've now sold the 12-24, putting the cash towards a tokina 11-16, which I will sell if I go full frame in 2 years time. Kinda wish I'd kept the 10-20.

With third party lenses, they use the EF mount not the EF-s lens mount, so they will mount on a 5D, and should operate normally apart from the vignetting.

With a zoom lens this will dissapear after a certain focal length anyway.

A canon UWA such as the 10-22 will not mount on a full frame, and even if the mount is removed and adjusted to fit full frame, the rear element can still rattle off the mirror.

Upshot, from my experience. Buy lenses for what you shoot on now. Avoid the tamron, its a pig (www.photozone.de canon APS-C reviews) there are enough APS-C users for a used value later.

Don;t buy a full frame lens (the only UWA is the 12-24 sigma which has filtering dilemmas and is slow, and only equivalent to 20mm on your cropped sensor canon.

What is the best Canon L lense to use for panoramic scenic shots?

gillamacs

I like taking shots of scenery and landscapes. What type of mm lense should I use? Would a wide angle 17mm lense be good or will a 24mm lense do just fine? Does having a 2.8 aperture improve the landscape picture? or is a 4.0 aperture just as good when taking scenic shots using a tripod at night.

Answer
If you are using a DSLR, lens does not matter, you can make a panoramic picture using a basic digital software, i.e. Photoshop Elements. If you are using a 35mm SLR, A standard 50mm lens will do fine, too much more and you may get vignetting if you use filters of any kind.

As for scenic shots, make sure you use aperture priority mode (Av). The "stops" are designated as Fx.y. The larger the number, the greater the "depth of field". When you have a greater depth of field, that means everything is in focus, not just the center of the photo. For example, use a tripod and use the F16 setting, don't worry about your shutter speed. Hope this helps. Good luck!

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