best camera lens for group portraits image
black_shee
I'm an amatuer at photography. I don't understand "digital zoom" or what the difference is in varying lens sizes like "18-55mm". I just want to be able to take decent photos of the deer at the back of my property....about 100 yards away....Could you recommend a camera or what lens, zoom, etc. a camera would need? Thanks in advance.
Answer
Digital zoom crops the image in the camera, resulting in lower resolution images.
18-55 mm is a medium wide angle to medium telephoto lens (good group shots to portraits) To shoot your deer, you would want an additional lens like the 55-200 mm lens.
A P&S camera (the ones that include "digital" zoom) have sensors that can be over 15 times smaller that a camera that comes with a 18-55 mm lens, a DSLR.
There are a number of camera companies that sell DSLR's in the $470 - $550 range that come with a good general lens and have many additional lenses available (even good used ones) that reach 200 mm (even longer if you want to spend the money)
Here is a list of some current ones and their ratings.
http://www.jdpower.com/electronics/ratings/digital-camera-ratings/dslr
You can look at their specs and reviews here:
http://www.dpreview.com
Digital zoom crops the image in the camera, resulting in lower resolution images.
18-55 mm is a medium wide angle to medium telephoto lens (good group shots to portraits) To shoot your deer, you would want an additional lens like the 55-200 mm lens.
A P&S camera (the ones that include "digital" zoom) have sensors that can be over 15 times smaller that a camera that comes with a 18-55 mm lens, a DSLR.
There are a number of camera companies that sell DSLR's in the $470 - $550 range that come with a good general lens and have many additional lenses available (even good used ones) that reach 200 mm (even longer if you want to spend the money)
Here is a list of some current ones and their ratings.
http://www.jdpower.com/electronics/ratings/digital-camera-ratings/dslr
You can look at their specs and reviews here:
http://www.dpreview.com
What is the best source or site that explains how to build a telescope with a camera?
Abeer s
I have plenty of time, so I decided to build a telescope. I want to attach a camera to it to take photos. Please tell me what is the best source or book or site to do this.
please help I really want this.
Answer
You can fit a camera to almost any telescope. If you use a standard 1 1/4" focuser you can get adapters of all sorts for fitting a camera to it directly.
They are also made for 2" focusers but are more expensive.
Put telescope ATM in the search box....ATM is Amateur Telescope Making. There are thousands of sites.
http://www.google.com/search?q=telescope+atm&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&client=firefox-a . . . . . .
A very good site is this one but look at lots and see what suits you for the sort of telescope you want.
http://www.atm-workshop.com/ . . . . . .
The spiritual home for ATM is Stellafane at Springfield in lovely Vermont.
It was started by the great Russell Porter, who began the big effort of making home made telescopes popular when he started his mirror grinding classes.
http://stellafane.org/ . . . . . .
There is no problem finding parts to build telescopes with. I've built nine decent ones and several more rushed-up jobs for quick events that have come up. Some people have built over a hundred telescopes, grinding and polishing the mirrors and making the tubes and mountings.
You can get focusers, diagonal mirrors and all the other bits very easily.
http://datscope.wikispaces.com/file/view/18_inch_F5_Dobsonian.jpg/52136033/18_inch_F5_Dobsonian.jpg . . . . .
This guy made five good telescopes.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://members.ziggo.nl/jhm.vangastel/Astronomy/30cmscope/30cm_bestanden/alle%2520vijf.jpg&imgrefurl=http://members.ziggo.nl/jhm.vangastel/Astronomy/30cmscope/5_30cm.htm&usg=__DzTxVL3S7AanlbcF4zpw_DHNHbs=&h=634&w=845&sz=186&hl=en&start=27&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=umxySrOV9M6OfM:&tbnh=109&tbnw=145&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dfive%2Bdobsonians%26start%3D20%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-GB:official%26ndsp%3D20%26tbs%3Disch:1 . . . . .
For refractors you can buy objective lenses and focusers and make the tubes fairly easily but it takes a bit of care to get it right.
Thousands of people make telescopes...it isn't so rare that you'll be in a lonesome land with no resources available.There are forums, Yahoo Groups, all sorts of info and help available.
Telescope making is not dying out, it is increasing. Ask the guys and girls at star parties.
A digital camera used with a telescope for taking pictures is called by the ugly sounding word digiscoping.
One way to do it is to get a filter thread adapter to fit a T2 mount, which you can find easily for standard 1 1/4 inch focusers, screw it onto the filter thread round the lens and put the adapter in the focusing tube like a normal eyepiece.
The camera then mounts directly onto the focusing tube with no worries about bits of complicated mounting adapters catching on things. It's exactly the same as having a huge telephoto lens mounted onto the camera. For mounting a heavy Nikon FM or an old-style brass-bodied Canon FTb,I use a body mount adapter straight onto the T2 adapter on the focusing tube.
All Newtonians and all normal telescopes are photo-telescopes. You can mount cameras easily on all of them.
If it's for a compact camera, what I did was to make a simple box from a scrap of thin ply with a grip to go over the outside of the focusing tube so I can use the camera with an eyepiece in place. It can be rotated easily for horizontal or vertical pictures (called landscape and portrait format in photography) because it just slides firmly over the focusing tube.
The box has some padding inside so the camera doesn't get scratched and it makes a nice firm fit.
It has to be measured up properly so the camera lens is central against the eyepiece but it's not a hard job. The back is cut out so the controls and screen are available and the top doesn't exist either, so it's more of a frame than a box. My first one was made from stiff card and worked fine for weeks till I made the wooden one.
I use it on 3-inch and 4-inch refractors and an 8-inch Maksutov for wildlife photography and occasionally on a Newtonian or the Maksutov for astro.
On a Newtonian the balance won't be affected greatly with the weight involved...4 -5 ounzes....I've got eyepieces heavier than that.. but if you want to fine tune the balance a simple solution is just to wrap something round the mirror end of the tube and fix it with string or a small bungee cord or sticky tape. Move it up and down till the balance is just right then fix it in place.
You can get balancing rods with a sliding weight for any telescope, or make one easily.
Just move the weight along a bar that's fixed to the the tube until the telescope is balanced and tighten the locking screw.
If there's a friction adjustment on the mount just increase it a bit and you'll probably find no re-balancing is necessary anyway.
A Dobsonian is OK for bright stuff like the Moon and even bright star clusters like the Pleiades or Jupiter at 80x. Take a dozen or more pics for planets and stars and stack them with Registax free software to improve the signal to noise ratio and contrast.
http://www.astronomie.be/registax/ . . . . . . .
I won a Philips Toucam Pro webcam in the raffle at Astrofest, which is the preferred webcam for astro pics. It does a good job when used with Registax.
For faint objects a motor-driven equatorial mount with manual override of the speed and a vibration-free slow motion control of declination are required for accurate guiding, using exposures of a minute or two up to over an hour.
It can be done with just manual slow motion controls but it's not fun and can be very tiring.
A separate guide scope is used, with a power a bit higher than that of the photographic scope to keep the guiding more accurate.
Otherwise you can buy an off-axis guider or an autoguider which can be expensive.
You can fit a camera to almost any telescope. If you use a standard 1 1/4" focuser you can get adapters of all sorts for fitting a camera to it directly.
They are also made for 2" focusers but are more expensive.
Put telescope ATM in the search box....ATM is Amateur Telescope Making. There are thousands of sites.
http://www.google.com/search?q=telescope+atm&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&client=firefox-a . . . . . .
A very good site is this one but look at lots and see what suits you for the sort of telescope you want.
http://www.atm-workshop.com/ . . . . . .
The spiritual home for ATM is Stellafane at Springfield in lovely Vermont.
It was started by the great Russell Porter, who began the big effort of making home made telescopes popular when he started his mirror grinding classes.
http://stellafane.org/ . . . . . .
There is no problem finding parts to build telescopes with. I've built nine decent ones and several more rushed-up jobs for quick events that have come up. Some people have built over a hundred telescopes, grinding and polishing the mirrors and making the tubes and mountings.
You can get focusers, diagonal mirrors and all the other bits very easily.
http://datscope.wikispaces.com/file/view/18_inch_F5_Dobsonian.jpg/52136033/18_inch_F5_Dobsonian.jpg . . . . .
This guy made five good telescopes.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://members.ziggo.nl/jhm.vangastel/Astronomy/30cmscope/30cm_bestanden/alle%2520vijf.jpg&imgrefurl=http://members.ziggo.nl/jhm.vangastel/Astronomy/30cmscope/5_30cm.htm&usg=__DzTxVL3S7AanlbcF4zpw_DHNHbs=&h=634&w=845&sz=186&hl=en&start=27&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=umxySrOV9M6OfM:&tbnh=109&tbnw=145&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dfive%2Bdobsonians%26start%3D20%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-GB:official%26ndsp%3D20%26tbs%3Disch:1 . . . . .
For refractors you can buy objective lenses and focusers and make the tubes fairly easily but it takes a bit of care to get it right.
Thousands of people make telescopes...it isn't so rare that you'll be in a lonesome land with no resources available.There are forums, Yahoo Groups, all sorts of info and help available.
Telescope making is not dying out, it is increasing. Ask the guys and girls at star parties.
A digital camera used with a telescope for taking pictures is called by the ugly sounding word digiscoping.
One way to do it is to get a filter thread adapter to fit a T2 mount, which you can find easily for standard 1 1/4 inch focusers, screw it onto the filter thread round the lens and put the adapter in the focusing tube like a normal eyepiece.
The camera then mounts directly onto the focusing tube with no worries about bits of complicated mounting adapters catching on things. It's exactly the same as having a huge telephoto lens mounted onto the camera. For mounting a heavy Nikon FM or an old-style brass-bodied Canon FTb,I use a body mount adapter straight onto the T2 adapter on the focusing tube.
All Newtonians and all normal telescopes are photo-telescopes. You can mount cameras easily on all of them.
If it's for a compact camera, what I did was to make a simple box from a scrap of thin ply with a grip to go over the outside of the focusing tube so I can use the camera with an eyepiece in place. It can be rotated easily for horizontal or vertical pictures (called landscape and portrait format in photography) because it just slides firmly over the focusing tube.
The box has some padding inside so the camera doesn't get scratched and it makes a nice firm fit.
It has to be measured up properly so the camera lens is central against the eyepiece but it's not a hard job. The back is cut out so the controls and screen are available and the top doesn't exist either, so it's more of a frame than a box. My first one was made from stiff card and worked fine for weeks till I made the wooden one.
I use it on 3-inch and 4-inch refractors and an 8-inch Maksutov for wildlife photography and occasionally on a Newtonian or the Maksutov for astro.
On a Newtonian the balance won't be affected greatly with the weight involved...4 -5 ounzes....I've got eyepieces heavier than that.. but if you want to fine tune the balance a simple solution is just to wrap something round the mirror end of the tube and fix it with string or a small bungee cord or sticky tape. Move it up and down till the balance is just right then fix it in place.
You can get balancing rods with a sliding weight for any telescope, or make one easily.
Just move the weight along a bar that's fixed to the the tube until the telescope is balanced and tighten the locking screw.
If there's a friction adjustment on the mount just increase it a bit and you'll probably find no re-balancing is necessary anyway.
A Dobsonian is OK for bright stuff like the Moon and even bright star clusters like the Pleiades or Jupiter at 80x. Take a dozen or more pics for planets and stars and stack them with Registax free software to improve the signal to noise ratio and contrast.
http://www.astronomie.be/registax/ . . . . . . .
I won a Philips Toucam Pro webcam in the raffle at Astrofest, which is the preferred webcam for astro pics. It does a good job when used with Registax.
For faint objects a motor-driven equatorial mount with manual override of the speed and a vibration-free slow motion control of declination are required for accurate guiding, using exposures of a minute or two up to over an hour.
It can be done with just manual slow motion controls but it's not fun and can be very tiring.
A separate guide scope is used, with a power a bit higher than that of the photographic scope to keep the guiding more accurate.
Otherwise you can buy an off-axis guider or an autoguider which can be expensive.
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